Marvel-Schebler C arb

[skyhightree1]

It appears the leaking seems to be a common thing.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-b ... &th=618359

Tim I think you need to print this and keep it
http://www.antiquefarming.com/PDF/carburetor.pdf

 

[M5farm]

I would think a rebuild kit with new float and jets and gaskets would solve your problem. the carb body should be fine. the I would get a shut off valve put it inline between tank and carb.

 

[hurleyjd]

First let me state I am just mechanical enough to be dangerousOL. I have a MF 35 Delux and when I shut it down a few days ago the carburetor started leaking. It was leaking from the back side...near the top. Anyway, I went to the shop and got a few pieces that the mechanic said I should replace. I did as he said. I put it all back together and mounted it back on the tractor. I fired it up and had a little trouble getting it adjusted. Got late and put tractor in shed. Next afternoon I go to finish the job and low and behold the carb is leaking again. Is anyone familiar with this carb and this situation? Should I just bite the bullet and get a replacement? This is a 61 model year...and I believe this is the original carb. What would you guys do? I appreciate any and all suggestions.

Tim

Your float may have gas in it and is heavy and will not shut the gas off. Take the float and submerge in hot water and see if it bubbles. Locate where the bubbles come from and solder the leak. Make sure that all of the gas is out of the float.

 

[lavacarancher]

First let me state I am just mechanical enough to be dangerousOL. I have a MF 35 Delux and when I shut it down a few days ago the carburetor started leaking. It was leaking from the back side...near the top. Anyway, I went to the shop and got a few pieces that the mechanic said I should replace. I did as he said. I put it all back together and mounted it back on the tractor. I fired it up and had a little trouble getting it adjusted. Got late and put tractor in shed. Next afternoon I go to finish the job and low and behold the carb is leaking again. Is anyone familiar with this carb and this situation? Should I just bite the bullet and get a replacement? This is a 61 model year...and I believe this is the original carb. What would you guys do? I appreciate any and all suggestions.

Tim

Your float may have gas in it and is heavy and will not shut the gas off. Take the float and submerge in hot water and see if it bubbles. Locate where the bubbles come from and solder the leak. Make sure that all of the gas is out of the float.

Hurly's right. Leaking float is a common problem but if it isn't "heavy" it may be a little piece of trash stuck in the float valve, also a common problem with older tractors with rust in the tank. If the float IS leaking and you try to solder it up do not use a torch to melt the solder. Use solder sparingly because solder is much heavier than gas.

 

[hurleyjd]

Thanks guys!! When I had the carb apart I inspected the float...there was no gas inside it. I showed the mechanic and he said he thought it was good to go. I am thinking it may be something in the float valve. I guess if I spray carb cleaner in there real well...and clean it that may be my problem. Anyway, I appreciate the suggestions.

Tim

If float is okay and no trash then the float may be adjusted to not float as high in the carb. You bend the tab to adjust the carb. Might do a search on the carb and adjustments on the internet.

 

[M5farm]

hurley is correct and the needle valve on these old carbs will hang up. take the needle out and make sure the rubber tip is ok and use the carb cleaner with the straw attached to blow everything out. if the needle body has some varnish on it you can lightly rub the 3 sides on some fine emory cloth to polish it up where it will slide easily on jet valve.

 

[hurleyjd]

How about removing the shutoff valve and cage from carb and inspect.

 

[Nesikep]

I think the 3 reasons it could leak have been covered.. heavy float, bad needle/seat, or too high a float level... but we've eliminated the first already...

On the triangular needles, the fit very nicely into a drill, I usually check the tips for grooving, and if there's a groove, I'll put it in the drill and spin it, using emery cloth to clean it up... this works with the brass tipped needles best, the rubber tipped ones ought to just be replaced. If you replace the needle, replace the seat as well. When you're done, you will need to adjust the height of the float.. see that PDF that was posted earlier.. that ought to have how to do it. You should be able to get just the needle and seat, though if your gaskets are bad, you might as well get the kit