I've got two feed trucks, both F350 duallies with bale beds on them. Last month one of the wheels on the back of one nearly fell off from the lugs loosening, wheel hadn't been off in 5 years. Last night the other truck got a shimmy in it when we took a load of cattle to the market, every lug was about a half turn loose. I put the winter tires on this truck last December and tightened them with a 600lb air gun and a 3/4" breaker bar. Both trucks have been abused this winter in the mud and snow, with a lot of snow packed between the wheels and chattering the tires getting stuck. Anyone from up north that experiences a lot of snow ever had a problem with the lugs coming loose on their trucks? I've owned one of the trucks near 10 years and the other close to 4, never had any problem before. Thanks.
Lug Nuts Loosening
- Thread starter cfpinz
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Galloways1
Well-known member
We run F350's, have lots of snow, more mud that I ever want to see. We usually have a problem getting the lug nust loose. We have to use anti-sieze on the studs. Are the rims really clean when you have tighten them? There might be some debris getting trapped, eventuall works its way free.
larryshoat
Well-known member
Never had that problem, the wheels on my 2000 F350 get stuck on the hub till you'd think you could run it without lugnuts and be ok.
We have stuff that won't stay tight though, grinder mixer, silage wagons. The only way to hold them is red locktight with a long enough bolt to put a nut on the back side. Anything I can't keep tight I use threadlocker on.
Larry
We have stuff that won't stay tight though, grinder mixer, silage wagons. The only way to hold them is red locktight with a long enough bolt to put a nut on the back side. Anything I can't keep tight I use threadlocker on.
Larry
turklilley
Well-known member
I have had lug nutss come loose when I failed to clean the mud and dirt off of the hubs and wheels. When the dirt works out, it lets the nuts loose
OP
OP
cfpinz
Well-known member
Beefy":1ubbri0y said:
She was with me last night.
There's a rumour floating around work that one of my friends is trying to take me out so he can get the wife, he called tonight and asked to borrow a lug wrench! :shock:
longtimelurker
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cfpinz
I'm unfamiliar with those wheels, are they inner nut outer nut or pilot's.
I'm unfamiliar with those wheels, are they inner nut outer nut or pilot's.
JHH
Well-known member
We have it happen a lot at the shop with new kids who dont recheck the wheels after they test drive them. Also happens alot with aluminum wheels. I make sure all the dirt is of the back of the whell before I put them back on.I take a little buffer and LIGHTLY touch it up if they are aluminum.Just becuase you use an impact doesnt mean they will stay tight.
Then again could be the life insurance thing.
Then again could be the life insurance thing.
Yup, aluminum wheels should be checked fairly often.
novatech
Well-known member
You may consider going the other direction and use lock-tite, or first just stop using the anti- sieze.cfpinz":32xh8bw8 said:
novaman
Well-known member
I'm also questioning whether the anti-sieze is a good idea. Are these aluminum wheels? I've heard that some of those types of wheels will have a tendency to work on the lug nuts and can loosely up.
AngusLimoX
Well-known member
I know you are a manly man, like all of the manly men in here, so reading the manufacturers specs would be out of the question!
But if you happened to properly torque them, by accident, to spec I wonder what may happen???
On my one ton SRW the "rumour" is 135lbs.
Re torque after 500 clicks. Or so I am told. :lol2:
But if you happened to properly torque them, by accident, to spec I wonder what may happen???
On my one ton SRW the "rumour" is 135lbs.
Re torque after 500 clicks. Or so I am told. :lol2:
OP
OP
cfpinz
Well-known member
Steel wheels, and I've been using never-sieze on my trucks for 16 years with no problems.
The recommended torque is stamped on the lugs, somewhere around 115 to 135 lbs. I don't know about the "manly man" part, but I'm usually in a hurry and I think a few good tugs on a 3/4" breaker bar is more than sufficient. I've used enough torque wrenches in my day job to know what 150 ft/lbs+ feels like.
If it happens again I'll start getting concerned, until then I'm not sweating it.
The recommended torque is stamped on the lugs, somewhere around 115 to 135 lbs. I don't know about the "manly man" part, but I'm usually in a hurry and I think a few good tugs on a 3/4" breaker bar is more than sufficient. I've used enough torque wrenches in my day job to know what 150 ft/lbs+ feels like.
If it happens again I'll start getting concerned, until then I'm not sweating it.
AngusLimoX
Well-known member
I was doing a take off on the " men don't read manuals" line of comedy pinz. Not a shot at you.
I have had to deal with lug nut and axle seperation at some nasty accident scenes. And I have been behind vehicles at the time of failure. Good luck.
I have had to deal with lug nut and axle seperation at some nasty accident scenes. And I have been behind vehicles at the time of failure. Good luck.
allischalmers1984
Active member
how are the studs? Hammering with an impact with out a torque limiter is not a great idea,it justs stretches the studs. i had aluminum wheels that came loose all the time torqued them to 150ft pounds and no problem since
