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<blockquote data-quote="RDFF" data-source="post: 1795886" data-attributes="member: 39018"><p>It depends... typical answer, right? Well, if you've had enough moisture to keep the ground damp (which is most of the time with good soil health practices), you can just push them right in.</p><p></p><p>As the soil becomes more dry, penetration with anything will pretty much ALWAYS become <u>more</u> difficult... these variables are why I kind of laugh at using a soil "penetrometer" to determine HOW compacted the soil is, and compare it to "other soil", or soil at different times of the year. It's NOT an accurate test, depending on these variables of conditions at the time. Just wet that spot by doing a water infiltration test (which is less affected by how dry it's been)... and THEN do your penetrometer again after 20 or 30 minutes, and there will be a world of difference. And it's NOT because you've suddenly brought the soil biology back to life in that short amount of time and they did their thing... it's purely the affect that the water had on the soil itself.</p><p></p><p>I rarely DO drive them in though, but when I do, it's just with the plastic cap that's available wherever you buy them, and a regular 16 oz. claw hammer. Mostly I do this in winter if I'm using them... and typically I can drive them in enough to get them to stand... especially if there is enough snow to prevent frost from pentrating much. If your soil is biologically active, it doesn't freeze over nearly as much as "dead soil" does... you'll be surprised by this difference. That's also why it will warm up more quickly in the spring... which most guys don't believe... "If it's covered with residue, it takes alot longer to warm up... that's why I HAVE TO till"................. WRONG. Stop the tilling, work on building soil biological activity instead, and it WILL be warmer earlier in spring. KEEP THAT SOIL COVERED!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RDFF, post: 1795886, member: 39018"] It depends... typical answer, right? Well, if you've had enough moisture to keep the ground damp (which is most of the time with good soil health practices), you can just push them right in. As the soil becomes more dry, penetration with anything will pretty much ALWAYS become [U]more[/U] difficult... these variables are why I kind of laugh at using a soil "penetrometer" to determine HOW compacted the soil is, and compare it to "other soil", or soil at different times of the year. It's NOT an accurate test, depending on these variables of conditions at the time. Just wet that spot by doing a water infiltration test (which is less affected by how dry it's been)... and THEN do your penetrometer again after 20 or 30 minutes, and there will be a world of difference. And it's NOT because you've suddenly brought the soil biology back to life in that short amount of time and they did their thing... it's purely the affect that the water had on the soil itself. I rarely DO drive them in though, but when I do, it's just with the plastic cap that's available wherever you buy them, and a regular 16 oz. claw hammer. Mostly I do this in winter if I'm using them... and typically I can drive them in enough to get them to stand... especially if there is enough snow to prevent frost from pentrating much. If your soil is biologically active, it doesn't freeze over nearly as much as "dead soil" does... you'll be surprised by this difference. That's also why it will warm up more quickly in the spring... which most guys don't believe... "If it's covered with residue, it takes alot longer to warm up... that's why I HAVE TO till"................. WRONG. Stop the tilling, work on building soil biological activity instead, and it WILL be warmer earlier in spring. KEEP THAT SOIL COVERED! [/QUOTE]
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