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How many miles would you go before you changed this oil?
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<blockquote data-quote="Travlr" data-source="post: 1827744" data-attributes="member: 42463"><p>I've always had a job off the farm... and most of those jobs were in a parts department somewhere. Three dealerships, and Napa and O'Reilly's. Lots of experience with seeing the results from changing oil... or not.</p><p></p><p>And oddly enough, a lot of the people that change oil more than recommended also have the vehicles that break and wear out. I know that sounds weird... but bear with me. If someone takes a vehicle in to a dealership or a mechanic for oil changes, the people making money from doing work on vehicles are NOT making money changing oil. They are looking for anything else they can upsell. I've seen more than one mechanic find a ($0.50) thermostat gasket that "might" be leaking, and they sell the customer on an intake gasket set "since we're going to be in there anyway". And then they replace the radiator, the hoses, the belts, and flush the radiator, etc. etc. etc. to the tune of $4,500/6,000. AND... the more work they do on the vehicle, the more likely it is to need work.</p><p></p><p>Of course there are also people that can't drive a car without breaking stuff... and others that can drive a car and it always runs fine.</p><p></p><p>In my early parts selling years we would sell remanufactured engines and require a core, and people would bring in engines that ran fine, "but were getting a little tired"... and we would take those same engines and put them in a circle track car and beat the crap out of them and they won races. It was easy to see which people used Pennzoil or Quaker State because those oils had paraffin in them and the engines were chock full of gunk. The Valvoline and other oils left very little deposits. But regardless... the engines all ran the same and had similar wear, and they ran just as good in a track car.</p><p></p><p>I've seen cars with forty thousand miles on them and no oil changes or added oil, the gunk so bad that when the drain plug was removed nothing would drip out of the pan, and the car running fine. I've also seen them running fine one day... and not the next. I bought a Chevy truck like that, making lifter noise because the lifters were gunked so bad that they were collapsed... and I put a quart of transmission fluid in and changed the oil every 500 miles until the noise disappeared. I put 24K miles on that truck and sold it two years later running fine for twice what I paid for it.</p><p></p><p>So if you want a recommendation... change your oil at recommended intervals. Do it yourself. Don't worry if you go over the recommended miles by thousands, but do change your oil and filter. Brand of oil? Whatever is cheap. Synthetics? Only if you don't have any leaks and only if the manufacturer recommends them. Never to break in an engine unless recommended by the manufacturer. I do buy better quality filters.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Travlr, post: 1827744, member: 42463"] I've always had a job off the farm... and most of those jobs were in a parts department somewhere. Three dealerships, and Napa and O'Reilly's. Lots of experience with seeing the results from changing oil... or not. And oddly enough, a lot of the people that change oil more than recommended also have the vehicles that break and wear out. I know that sounds weird... but bear with me. If someone takes a vehicle in to a dealership or a mechanic for oil changes, the people making money from doing work on vehicles are NOT making money changing oil. They are looking for anything else they can upsell. I've seen more than one mechanic find a ($0.50) thermostat gasket that "might" be leaking, and they sell the customer on an intake gasket set "since we're going to be in there anyway". And then they replace the radiator, the hoses, the belts, and flush the radiator, etc. etc. etc. to the tune of $4,500/6,000. AND... the more work they do on the vehicle, the more likely it is to need work. Of course there are also people that can't drive a car without breaking stuff... and others that can drive a car and it always runs fine. In my early parts selling years we would sell remanufactured engines and require a core, and people would bring in engines that ran fine, "but were getting a little tired"... and we would take those same engines and put them in a circle track car and beat the crap out of them and they won races. It was easy to see which people used Pennzoil or Quaker State because those oils had paraffin in them and the engines were chock full of gunk. The Valvoline and other oils left very little deposits. But regardless... the engines all ran the same and had similar wear, and they ran just as good in a track car. I've seen cars with forty thousand miles on them and no oil changes or added oil, the gunk so bad that when the drain plug was removed nothing would drip out of the pan, and the car running fine. I've also seen them running fine one day... and not the next. I bought a Chevy truck like that, making lifter noise because the lifters were gunked so bad that they were collapsed... and I put a quart of transmission fluid in and changed the oil every 500 miles until the noise disappeared. I put 24K miles on that truck and sold it two years later running fine for twice what I paid for it. So if you want a recommendation... change your oil at recommended intervals. Do it yourself. Don't worry if you go over the recommended miles by thousands, but do change your oil and filter. Brand of oil? Whatever is cheap. Synthetics? Only if you don't have any leaks and only if the manufacturer recommends them. Never to break in an engine unless recommended by the manufacturer. I do buy better quality filters. [/QUOTE]
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How many miles would you go before you changed this oil?
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