CowgirlUpNY":1r4hfuwe said:
We are new to raising cattle, and are doing it mainly for our own consumption along with selling maybe one or two.
DH normally comes home with something from the auction, and then I bust my hump to try to save it. Mostly with not much luck. Tomorrow we are going to a farm to have a look and I'm wondering what do I want to look for, because ultimately husband will look to me for the yes or no on who to choose.
I've been doing some reading and think I may have a handle on the basics. Position of tailhead, form of legs, head up or drooping, eyes/nose clear, no coughing.
Can anyone clue me in on what else to look for???
TIA
I have written extensively - and I do mean extensively on this topic -here is one that I retreived for you - it will give you a good start. While we do have a few horned Herfs around - the breed truly is not important - what follows is what matters - in my opinion.
Bez>
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Well, you asked for a beginners animal - I think all the replies are sorta' ok - but they all miss the mark in my opinion.
You want a mature cow. Vet checked. Quiet. Safe in calf - preferably with calf at side. The breed does not matter. Age is not a real important issue as long as they are healthy breeders. You will cull over the first few years - but you will get a few calves out of the older animals.
You do NOT want something that will give you calving probs - you will have them soon enough anyway.
When you go to buy them - do it in this manner:
Go with at least one person you can trust to help you - someone who knows cows.
Know what you are prepared to pay - well in advance of looking.
The animals should be in a field - NOT a pen.
You will walk amongst them. They will not run away or run at you. If they do - leave.
You will get all the records from the seller. If there are none - leave.
You will help pen them for the vet - any trouble makers stay in the field - and stay there - not at your place.
Any wall climbers stay there.
Any fence crawlers stay there.
You will not take anything that does not have a vaccination regime - things can happen long after you get them home.
You will be there when they are vet checked. You will pay for the checking on the cattle you take. The vendor will pay for the others.
You will split the cost of the vet call.
I have probably missed a few things, but the neighbour brought over a couple of beers - something I have not had in a long time due to financial constraints - so I am somewhat fogged in at the moment.
You do not need more than 10 to start - a nice little herd to build upon while you learn.
Finally - remember - the breed is not important - the herd mentality is - especially if you are new to the game.
There will be others that can add to what I have missed - after all I am an old fart and have forgotten how to tie my shoes without help from the nurse.
Have fun, and enjoy your cows.
Let us know how it goes,
Bez
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Here is another:
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I do not know you and you do not know me – but I think I am going to keep this on file as my standard answer to this regular question.
You mention nothing about your esperience, or your infrastructure and so on – so there is some pretty basic stuff here that you need to know – if you do not – it's a learning day. If you do – then accept my apologies for boring you.
These are animals - not pets. They are tough, ornery, eating machines that one day will run you over and the next day look at you with a calmness that you cannot believe. They are one heck of a great hobby - that is how wife and I got started in the business years ago. Love 'em, but if you spoil 'em you will end up with problems.
As for breeds - well, any beef cow that can live in Canada can live in the U.S. of A. - some may do better than others - but darned near every breed you have down south is found in Canada. I happen to like the British breeds and run HH – but that does not mean you have to stay British. If you have the right kind of ground and the right kind of feed they will ALL do well.
Just remember this little tidbit ... and this is important - you probably do not have experience in breeding, calving and doctoring. Not a slur, just a fact - so find something that will not crush you when something goes wrong - and believe me, it sooner or later will.
Nearly all breeds do well - especially if they can be contained, sheltered, fed and watered. That's it in a nutshell. The rest is easy.
We all have our favourites - but who cares if you have a patchwork quilt of animals in the field - if they are solid, quiet animals with calves at side - well, be happy.
Go cheap. Go with pairs. Instant moms that are bred back. Go with quiet. Do not ask what breed – at this stage you had better not care - it is not important, walk in amongst them before you buy - if they are gone like deer - then forget them. If they jump, fight or run you - run for your truck. If they load hard - run for your truck and leave. If they are not vet checked and preg checked - with you present - run for your truck and put your money away for another day. Split the call out fee – you pay vet bills for the ones you take – vendor pays for the ones you do not.
Go with mature to prevent calving probs and mothers who disown or kill their calves with starvation - not common, but it does happen. Go private - not sale barn - do not buy someone elses trouble – unless it is a TOTAL herd dispersal – and these can be real good sales to go to. Tell the owner you WILL be back if there are problems that may have been hidden. Get all their records - herd health, vaccinations, dates of birth, and so on. If those records are not available - run for your truck.
Look up my thread - Ding! Dong! Brindles Dead - and avoid any brindles like crazy - no matter what the breed. Perhaps I am just superstitious?
Find an old hand in your area - have him go with you and look at least 5 different outfits before you make up your mind - that way you have an idea of what you are up against. Bargain hard - know your price before you leave your own driveway and stick to it. Don't deviate - there are lots of really good animals out there for sale.
Have a good fence, SOLID FENCE IS BEST, some feed and water available when they show up at home - even quiet animals can become tornadoes for a day or two. If your penning area is small and poorly fenced, plan on searching for them for a couple of days before they settle in.
Others who back me – and I quickly found two – both know their stuff:
Craig-Tx wrote:
But if you're wanting a few cows that will pay their own way why not buy cheap pairs. Then you know she can calve. Buy young momma cows that look somewhat poor but sound. Or buy 6-8 year old sound cows with light calves at their sides. You will get a pair for $hundreds less than a fancy cow will cost and you'll be amazed at what she will look like next year if you've put her on good grass and taken care of her thru the winter. She might not be anything to brag about but you'll be in the money on her next calf. The same principle, with a little more risk, can be applied to young bred cows. And same for bulls.
Old Timer wrote:
Craig- I agree with you-- If you just want to run a few cows the best money is in buying a few older bred cows--many places cull them when they lose 1 tooth (sometimes only 4-5 years old) or hit 10 years of age-- Sell for $350- 500 as brokenmouths - Some of these cows have several years left in them if you have good pasture-- I've bought them over the years just to put on one good pasture I have and probably made more off them than some of the ones I raised-- Altho this year those same cows that were selling for $400 are now selling for $800-900..... Might just have to run some of the old girls one more year on that pasture.
So, it looks like there are three of us in the same boat. Start slow and build. You have enough ground, but do you have enough experience and time to handle more than 10 – 15? A good number for a beginner with your ground available. Sell the excess hay for the first couple of years. Do not sell it until January – by then you'll know what you need for the remainder of the year.
If you plan to sell them - make sure that you are selling into an accepting crowd. As an example - if the area you are in loves that black hide, you will suffer with a dollar penalty by trying to sell red. In my area black AND red are guaranteed to sell 10 - 20 cents a pound less than a TAN colour. Go figure - if you take the clothes off of them 99% of producers could not tell you what breed they were. Do your homework. If you want to go "exotic" fine – be darned sure they are quiet and you can handle them.
Far as I am concerned - solid animal is good - but cheaper is better.
Calves all sell - you just want good 'uns. Healthy and lively.
Get all your fences in order FIRST!
Probably missed a few things – but you get the idea.
Go for it - have fun and welcome to an interesting life - that of a cattleman!
Regards
Bez
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Times and prices have changed, but the facts and requirements stay the same. They need a good fence - very little shelter, good grass or hay, mineral and water. If you need to do much more you do not want them. The LESS you have to put into the animal the MORE profit you are likely to make.
Best of luck,
Bez>