Going Crazy, Picking Stain

[I luv herfrds]

I have been trying to pick a stain for the window and door trim for the new house.
There are 18 different color samples on the frame of 2 doors and 2 windows.
Think I have finally narrowed it down to at least 4.

#1

#2

#3

#4

Thoughts?
I really like #2, but the other colors showed up differently in the pictures.

 

[3waycross]

Asking us for help picking a stain color over the internet is like asking you hubby "Does this dress me me look fat"?

THERE IS NO RIGHT ANSWER, YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN.LOLOLOL

 

[Ryder]

Asking us for help picking a stain color over the internet is like asking you hubby "Does this dress me me look fat"?

THERE IS NO RIGHT ANSWER, YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN.LOLOLOL

Ditto that.
But if you really want :help: , I suggest No. 2 That should do well.
On second thought, maybe No. 4 would be better.
But as I reflect, I don't think you would go wrong if you selected No. 1.
But wait, don't overlook a potential best choice with No. 3.

Glad I could help. :nod: That's what we are all here for---To help one another. :clap:

 

[1982vett]

Since you asked, I prefer #2. It doesn't "pop" in your face so much.

 

[cypressfarms]

From the looks of it, your staining pine wood. Pine "blotches" really bad with stain. You can use a newer type of stain, called "gel stain" and it wont blotch. I would pick out whichever stain you liked and then put your "finish coat" on as well to see how it looks finished. Looking at stain alone is sometimes deceiving - The stain will look dark at first and then dry lighter.

I've got way too many hobbies - one of them is woodworking, and been at it for over 20 years.

 

[upfrombottom]

Staining can be a tricky job especially on softer woods. It may be to late but you should use scrap to put samples on. Because no matter what color you finally use, you will have already have another already on there and will have to stain the whole thing with the sample color and then go over it with the chosen color to get uniform coverage or sand the sample completely off and start over.

Evergreen woods have a tendency to have a red tint even if it is white pine. Common stains are designed for furniture use and since most all furniture is made out of hardwood, the stain itself will have a reddish tint and when used on evergreens the red is magnified. If you apply a sanding sealer before you stain the pine it will alleviate some of the red and the blotching that you get with softwood. The best color stain I have found to use on pine is a fruitwood, or have a color mixed. Hardwood floor stain is a real good stain to use on soft woods because it usually doesn't have a reddish tint, but it is designed for hardwood and since hardwood is not as porous as pine the colors are extremely deep and will need to be diluted. In any case use a sanding sealer first and then apply the stain you will get a more uniform color and will not have quite as much red to deal with.

Unless you like the red, but judging from your preference, it is what you are trying to get away from.

 

[3waycross]

N0w for what I like. #3 it looks like Honey Oak.

 

[alisonb]

My choice would be #2 unless you have something more inclined towards yellow ochre instead of the sienna?

 

[MO_cows]

I liked #2, it was more neutral. That golden oak in #1 is pretty but it's more vibrant and you might get sick of it as the years go by.

 

[upfrombottom]

Here is another technique I have used quite often when there is allot of contrast in the colors of material. The logs have a darker hinge or what I believe someone (I think Jo) called blue stain. You can get a latex paint to match the color of the "blue" and water it down and use it as a stain. I would try it on a scrap piece and apply it first and then stain over it. And on another scrap stain first and then apply the watered down paint to see which I liked best. The common name is pickling and will elevate alot of the contrast. When it is dry it can be varnished over and it will be very durable.

 

[cypressfarms]

Whichever stain you pick, make sure you put at least a few clear coats on after the stain has dried, or all your hard work will be in vain. Probably the most "user friendly" is polyurethane. My kitchen cabinets have 5 coats of Minwax Polyurethane (they are cypress ofcourse) and still look great 12 years later.

 

[I luv herfrds]

Thank you everyone.
Got a good chuckle out of a couple of the comments. :lol2: :lol2:

upfrombottom thanks for the tips. Planned to sand the whole thing anyway because of all the wood putty I have been using to fill the finish nail holes on the frame and to get the makers stamp off too.

 

[I luv herfrds]

Got all the glass taped around. Wore out the sanding disc on the sander, of course do not have any more. Hubby is going to pick some up tomorrow.
Asked him for a cloth rag to do the wood conditioner, what does he bring me?


One of my brand new towels!!!! :shock:

Going to tear up one of his old t-shirts instead.
Can get the patio and one entry door frame done and 4 windows.

Still a lot of work needing to done before the end of the month.

 

[GMN]

to be honest i don't like any of them, is the stain the same for both boards-just looks different with the wood?

 

[upfrombottom]

Here are some pictures of what I was talking about. This is the ceiling on my screened porch I built a few years ago. The wood is red cedar.

This is the wainscot on the same porch, The material is yellow pine bead board.

I just used watered down paint on the cedar and used stain and then the watered down paint on the pine.

 

[Angus Cowman]

I like that

 

[I luv herfrds]

That is nice. Will have to show it to hubby. He's decorating the rec room aka the man cave. :roll:
Wants complete wood down there.

 

[bear]

By watering down, do you mean thin latex paint with water or are you using paint thinner to thin the paint to make stain?
Bear

 

[upfrombottom]

I use latex paint because it is so much easier to work with. To tell the truth, I put paint in the water. I get a bucket and fill it about half full of water and add enough paint to color the water. Apply it to a scrap piece of wood and let it dry, if the color is not deep enough to suit me I'll either add more paint to the mix or just put another coat of what I started with over the first. Its a crap shoot, so always test it on a scrap, and the second or third coat method is the safest bet. Sometimes it will look as if you haven't put any color at all on the wood and when it dries you'll see that you have.

 

[bear]

I use latex paint because it is so much easier to work with. To tell the truth, I put paint in the water. I get a bucket and fill it about half full of water and add enough paint to color the water. Apply it to a scrap piece of wood and let it dry, if the color is not deep enough to suit me I'll either add more paint to the mix or just put another coat of what I started with over the first. Its a crap shoot, so always test it on a scrap, and the second or third coat method is the safest bet. Sometimes it will look as if you haven't put any color at all on the wood and when it dries you'll see that you have.

I was just curious. I have seen it done both ways.
Bear