Frost proof hydrant ??

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We have 2 different makes. I put them in with the little drain deal about 2 foot belows the surface with a 4 inch section of PVC about 12-16 inches high around the pipe and vlve and fill that with gravel. I but a cover over the end of the PVC and fill the holse with dirt. If I have to dig one out I only have to dig to the top of the PVC and scoop out the gravel. That way the hydraunt riser can be unscrewed from the water line. Only had to do that once where the cows had broken the hydraunt at the connection to the water line. Now any where the cows can get to them I sink a couple of T-posts deep and make a basket out of old cattle panels around the hydraunt.
 
jedstivers":23ekcuo5 said:
Bigfoot looks John told you right. The Iowa parts can be changed from above ground and new parts fit old hydrants.
http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Yar ... atalog.pdf
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention if you live in areas with alkalai soil, tape that galvanized pipe on your new hydrant completely with black electrical tape, or use the special wide tape available specifically for the purpose.

I've seen hydrants rusted out below ground in less than 10 yrs time without. Also, saw one that was taped but the tape got dinged during backfill operation. Had a 1/2" hole right where the tape was gone.

IMO, any permanent water line is worth doing right. I'd use a garden hose before I wasted my money and labor burying a water line only 18". At least I could drain the garden hose or put it in the bathtub to thaw out. :p :p :p

This thread reminds me of an oldie but goodie thread at NAT from 3 years ago. :lol2: :lol: :lol2:

http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread ... etCookie=1
 
John SD":1odtjd5n said:
jedstivers":1odtjd5n said:
Bigfoot looks John told you right. The Iowa parts can be changed from above ground and new parts fit old hydrants.
http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Yar ... atalog.pdf
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention if you live in areas with alkalai soil, tape that galvanized pipe on your new hydrant completely with black electrical tape, or use the special wide tape available specifically for the purpose.

I've seen hydrants rusted out below ground in less than 10 yrs time without. Also, saw one that was taped but the tape got dinged during backfill operation. Had a 1/2" hole right where the tape was gone.

IMO, any permanent water line is worth doing right. I'd use a garden hose before I wasted my money and labor burying a water line only 18". At least I could drain the garden hose or put it in the bathtub to thaw out. :p :p :p
Click to expand...
With our soil it was galvanic action that ate the threds on the galvanized nipple where it went into the brass fitting at the bottom of the riser. Weird because it was done just like the other dozen I've put in over the past 15 years and that one only lasted 5 years.
 
Dun, I'm afraid your experience is not weird. It's becoming the norm.

IMO, the quality of metal plumbing products and most everything else has gone down since everything is being produced by the cheapest overseas manufacturer.

Hard to find old fashioned Made in USA quality in anything anymore, including the few remaining products that are Made in USA. :???: :2cents:
 
John SD":1y0g4ktv said:
Dun, I'm afraid your experience is not weird. It's becoming the norm.

IMO, the quality of metal plumbing products and most everything else has gone down since everything is being produced by the cheapest overseas manufacturer.

Hard to find old fashioned Made in USA quality in anything anymore, including the few remaining products that are Made in USA. :???: :2cents:
Click to expand...
What I thought was weird was that of all I've done only the one had a problem.........SO FAR
 
Knock on wood, I've never had a problem with any of water lines I have installed over 10 yrs ago with HDPE pipe using stainless steel pipe threaded ends coupled with brass and/or PVC. If I were to do any new installations, that might be the way I would go.
 
John SD":2rftqz7w said:
Knock on wood, I've never had a problem with any of water lines I have installed over 10 yrs ago with HDPE pipe using stainless steel pipe threaded ends coupled with brass and/or PVC. If I were to do any new installations, that might be the way I would go.
Click to expand...
It's the galvanized and brass that causes the problem. You could use plastic between the galvanized and brass and not have a problem. The only way I was able to see the area that was leaking was from the vertigris that was around the pinhole in the threads.
 
bf the one I use a few times a day at the shop is a woodford the others are called pro plumber brand I never had any issues with either.



 
I'm normally against working on Sunday, but I guess the ox was in the ditch this time. I dug down to the drain, and backflow thing. I couldn't tell what the problem was because the hole was pretty well full of water. I've got the local fix it guy coming tomorrow to change it out. He's not a plumber, but he's handy at just about everything. I hate to pay somebody to do something that I can do, but it's dark when I leave, and dark when I come home. I don't want it to leak till next Saturday.
 
We try to hang out as a family on Sundays, and give thanks for the good week we've had. Don't plan to work on Sundays, myself.
 
I thought everybody had problem with these hydrandts. Mine only last 2-3 years. Maybe my problem is the shallow water table. Mine rust out at the bottom of the weep hole. Our water table goes from 1-5' over the year.
 
We've sold several brands years, Clayton Mark used to be the best, but we went to Simmons because they are supposed to be repairable without digging them up and depending on the problem that is true.
The problem I've seen was when installed you need sand or gravel below the drain so it's not setting in wet ground and rusting out.
If it's froze in cold weather and you force it open then your going to break it or wear/tear the plunger
If it's froze then it's not deep enough or you need to purchase the 3' bury instead of the 2'

There re lots of cheap models out there and they're cheap for a reason
 
I'm feeling like I have been lucky. Knocking on wood :lol2: Really mine have been in the ground 14 years. I said 15 in my first post. Was just guessing at the time, but my encyclopedia of the History of Hickville Republic, LLC. (my wife), just corrected me. It was late fall 1999 when we ran the water lines out to the garden and barn areas. I have only had to adjust the handles from time to time. I do have one that leaks a bit at the handle while its on, but not when it's off. Our recommended depth is 18 inches. I remember mine being a bit more than that. I did wrap the tape around mine. I'm curious now I'll have to go look at them and see what brand they are. I bought all 3 at a local mom and pop lumber and hardware store, Blake Building Supply, Hatfield Arkansas, population 400. They were expensive. Seems like $40 something each. I do remember two of them had red handles and one had a blue handle. It was all they had. I wanted 5. Now they are all the same color. Haven't even thought about having to repair or replace them, but now that this subject has come up, I'm sure I will have to replace them soon. Thanks for the heads up :tiphat:
 
I have installed hundreds of these. The best one I know of is the Woodford/Iowa. But I do one thing extra I always buy a little 1/4" brass elbow for the weep hole and turn it downwards. And I use 1" rock up 1' above weep hole. I've had problems with all of them. But, a lot less problems with the Woodford. The worst ones I ever dealt with were Pyror. B&G
 
I've been looking at the wood ford site. The y30 looks like good one. I'm certain when my guy gets to the supply house tomorrow, all they will have is the Chinese made POS that I've been getting, but I can hope.
 
Bigfoot":1la5kndo said:
I've been looking at the wood ford site. The y30 looks like good one. I'm certain when my guy gets to the supply house tomorrow, all they will have is the Chinese made POS that I've been getting, but I can hope.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bigfoot. That's the ones I've had the best luck with by far. The Y34 is a 3/4" Hydrant. The Y1 is a 1" Hydrant. And they have the variable flow cam. B&G
 
If a large volume of water is desired, I'd forget the hydrant altogether and use a curb stop/drain. A 1" unrestricted valve flows a lot more water than a hydrant.

Probably no big deal if the water source is close to the destination, but makes quite a difference if your hydrant is a half mile or more from the water source.

Summer or winter application makes a difference too. A hydrant by nature needs too much tending to in winter.
 

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