Fertilizer adding nutrients

[Pointer1160]

Besides growing more and better hay do you feel fertilizing adds needed nutrients to the grass for the cattle? Thanks

 

[Jogeephus]

Yes to a point.

 

[Pointer1160]

Could you elaborate please.

 

[B&M Farms]

It adds protein for sure. I can put up coastal and tifton 85 square bales here at an average of 14% protein but I have to fertilize it heavy and get timely rains. Fertilizer by itself will not make that hay though. You have to cut it in the right stage no matter how tall or how many bales you are going to get to the acre. Here 3 to 4 weeks and you have to cut or you are losing value. I have place I cut 3 times a season and I fees that to my cows. The bermuda I fertilize heavy I small square and cut every 3 to 4 weeks, I sale it to horse folks that will pay for it. Cow people won't pay for it here.

 

[Jogeephus]

What he said. Fertility alone doesn't make the forage. You need to weigh things out and balance timing, use and fertility. Many people over fertilize and end up wasting the benefits of the fertilization because they don't use the forage in a timely manner.

 

[TexasBred]

Timing the cutting of the hay is as much if not more important than the fertilization. Every day it goes past prime it becomes less and less nutritious and digestible. A lot of folks will let it go too long in hopes of getting "more" hay instead of cutting on time when all nutrients are at their peak.

 

[novatech]

Grass transfers the nutrients in the soil to the animal. If it's not in the soil they cannot get through the grass.
For example; if you are low on P and you do not add it, it not only will affect the forage but you may also notice a lower fertility rate do to the low phosphorus.

 

[Pointer1160]

Thanks to all for your replies. They are great and appreciated. So better to cut when the grass has not headed out and still tender. Of course the cuttings in Arkansas must be done with dry July, August and September weather in mind.

 

[TexasBred]

Thanks to all for your replies. They are great and appreciated. So better to cut when the grass has not headed out and still tender. Of course the cuttings in Arkansas must be done with dry July, August and September weather in mind.

Better to cut on time and let it get rained on than to let it stand and become worthless unless you now you have rain in the forecast everyday for a week or more.

 

[ousoonerfan22]

If you cut the hay 30 days after fertilizing and want to get a second cutting will there be much protein in that second cutting? We spread 3 tons of 30-11-11 on 30 acres on May 24th and have had about 3 inches of rain since so this first cutting will have some fescue but the Bermuda is really coming on now, the next cutting will be mostly Bermuda. I don't know if we will get by with that 3 tons of fertilizer or should spread a couple more tons after the first cutting?

 

[Jogeephus]

If you cut the hay 30 days after fertilizing and want to get a second cutting will there be much protein in that second cutting? We spread 3 tons of 30-11-11 on 30 acres on May 24th and have had about 3 inches of rain since so this first cutting will have some fescue but the Bermuda is really coming on now, the next cutting will be mostly Bermuda. I don't know if we will get by with that 3 tons of fertilizer or should spread a couple more tons after the first cutting?

You really need to base this on a soil test. Looks like you are putting out 60 lbs of N 22 of P & K. Your P is pretty stable and a continuous application at that rate would work here but your K is light and here you'd be in a deficit after a few cuttings. And yes, you will need another application but I'd up the potassium some.

Pull a soil test.

 

[ousoonerfan22]

Last year we only spread 2 tons of nitrogen in June before mowing the Bermuda but this meadow hasn't been fertilized in over 20-30 years and was used for grazing. We've been spraying it for 3 years and it's pretty clean now. How long does it take for the P and K to work it's way in the soil? Will this summer cuttings have any nutrients from the P and K or will it probably be next summers hay?
Yes, I need to do a soil test. Do you take multiple samples or will a couple do it?

 

[B&M Farms]

Last year we only spread 2 tons of nitrogen in June before mowing the Bermuda but this meadow hasn't been fertilized in over 20-30 years and was used for grazing. We've been spraying it for 3 years and it's pretty clean now. How long does it take for the P and K to work it's way in the soil? Will this summer cuttings have any nutrients from the P and K or will it probably be next summers hay?
Yes, I need to do a soil test. Do you take multiple samples or will a couple do it?

Most fields around me have strong and weak parts so on 30 acres I would probably take 15 or 20 samples and mix them up to get one. Your P and K will take longer to deplete or leach out than nitrogen usually. I use chicken manure most of the time now and have learned to adjust to soil test with commercial fertilizers less frequently. Before commercial fertilizer was so expensive I would fertilize to soil test in the spring and still put about 50 to 60 pounds of ammonia nitrate between cuttings if getting rain. I can't afford that anymore but it did make a lot of grass. I'm now trying to establish good stands of clover to help with nitrogen cost.

 

[Jogeephus]

The more samples the better but be sure you check with who will be doing the analysis to be sure you take the samples from the proper depth else you will get some crazy numbers. Your P and K work fast but none of that matters if you have any element out of whack. Picture it this way. Think of an old wooden barrel made out of wooden staves. Each of these staves represents soil elements so if you have any one element lacking you cannot fill the barrel with water. Here, phosphorous is often lacking in our soils. Its very stable but is easily removed. I see people dumping tons of nitrogen on their fields yet the grass won't grow nearly as good as it should because of this one missing element. To complicate things, if your pH is off the power of the fertilizer is reduced exponentially. The most important thing is to get your pH right then worry about amending the elements and get things in balance. Simply spreading fertilizer is like chasing butterflies if you don't have an understanding of where you are trying to go. If you don't have a clear objective the opportunity cost of this will break you and your grass won't be worth a flip.