Electric Gate Wire?

[Stocker Steve]

Poly twine does not hold up well, and 2 twisted 12 ga strands of barb less gets a bit heavy with a wide gate.

Have you have success using a high tensile wire attached to a better quality spring gate handle?

 

[dwilliams35]

That's what we've been using for years: there's been once or twice that it "coiled up" when we "opened" the gate, and ended up with a kink in the wire as a result. No big deal, but sooner or later it'll break right there at that kink: we've probably changed the wire out three times over ten years or so..

 

[Aaron]

I like the elastic stretchable poly wire for gates. Some of the kits you can buy are supposed to be guaranteed for 5 years, but are pricey. I started buying parts (from Kencove) and making them myself for 1/2 the price of the kits.

 

[dun]

For permanent gates that's all I use. For walk troughs that are just closed of temporarily I use the bungy gate deals. The problem with the bungy gates is that if they aren;t hot and are just setting aorund the calves will chew on them, same with poly. I use the 12.5 gauge stuff as gates that can also act as switches. When not being used I either stretch them out and hook them to a non-electric fence or coil them up and hang them over the posts. If they are used as a switch they are connected permanently at the non-hot end and the spring handle is at the other. For the ones used as gates we use a buried double insulated wire under the gate and are only hot when they are hooked up, the spring handle hooks to the hot end and the other end is insulated from the wire.

 

[plumber_greg]

Try the 1/8" wire cable, or wire rope some call it. It's the same size as #9 wire so the same connectors will work, I use the smash collars, not sure what you call them. You can just drop it to the ground, and it follows the contour of the ground, so just drive over it. Won't catch on the wheels, unless mud picks up on the tires.
If it gets too long, tie a knot in it. If it's too short untie the knot, I put some in it at the start. Have had some 15+ years old, still goin' strong. I use pin-loc insulators on the non-hot end of the gate, hook the other end to the fence, then the gate is dead when open. gs

 

[chippie]

I use a lightweight to medium weight chain chain. Works great. I don't like how wire will coil back on you.

 

[Stocker Steve]

I use a lightweight to medium weight chain chain. Works great. I don't like how wire will coil back on you.

What do you use for connectors?

 

[chippie]

I make a small loop out of the hot wire that goes through the end of the chain by the insulator on one post, attach a spring hot wire handle to the other end of the chain (I used a piece of wire). Then make a loop out of the hot wire at the opposite post's insulator to hook the handle in.

Pinch the wire on the end of the chain that does not have the handle to ensure good contact. The weight of the chain will ensure that you have contact.

Our hot wire is barb wire. Our fences that are 5 strand fences with two strands hot. One in the middle and one near the ground. That spacing seems to work best to discourage pushing on the fence. The low wire keeps dogs and coyotes out too.

The barb wire lasts longer than the commercial light weight wire and if the cow has a heavy hair coat, the barbs will go through the hair.

 

[lavacarancher]

Try the 1/8" wire cable, or wire rope some call it. It's the same size as #9 wire so the same connectors will work, I use the smash collars, not sure what you call them Nicopress sleeves. You can just drop it to the ground, and it follows the contour of the ground, so just drive over it. Won't catch on the wheels, unless mud picks up on the tires.
If it gets too long, tie a knot in it. If it's too short untie the knot, I put some in it at the start. Have had some 15+ years old, still goin' strong. I use pin-loc insulators on the non-hot end of the gate, hook the other end to the fence, then the gate is dead when open. gs