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Board Fence Material
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<blockquote data-quote="MosesR" data-source="post: 802252" data-attributes="member: 15246"><p>I live in the Missouri Ozarks, lots of oak forests. I built two oak board fences in the last two years. The first was for a cattle holding lot (5 board, 6 feet tall +/-) and the second was for my entry way (4 board 5 feet tall +/-). I used 6X6 green oak posts set as deep as I could get them. I did mention Ozarks right? Anyway in the bottom ground 3 to 3.5 feet holes were no problem. Up top on the ridge, sometimes 18 inches was max (near solid rock). I set the posts on 8 feet centers and used 2X6 lumber for my horizontal runners. I also put a vertical 2X6 on center between the posts for a better appearance and to control warping and sagging. To prevent rot I charred each post from the bottom to slightly above the ground level. The charring is an old timer's remedy to prevent microbes from entering the wood. Ever found a charred piece of wood out in the woods? I had my lumber sawed by a local sawmill right when I was ready, had all my other supplies and a week off from "work". Doing this ensured that the wood was green and would be "sawmill strait" to make construction easier. After the oak dries out, pre-drilling and screws is the only thing that works. When it is fresh from the mill, nails go right through it. After the fence was built, I waited until the wood cured, the weather was hot, and it was dry for a couple of weeks. I then used motor oil and diesel fuel (3 to 1) and sprayed the fence with a pump sprayer. It looks awesome, a little rustic, and I only had one board warp but it is in the holding pen and cows don't seems to mind. </p><p></p><p>When I build my handling and sorting pens I plan on using the same products and methods. </p><p></p><p>Regards</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MosesR, post: 802252, member: 15246"] I live in the Missouri Ozarks, lots of oak forests. I built two oak board fences in the last two years. The first was for a cattle holding lot (5 board, 6 feet tall +/-) and the second was for my entry way (4 board 5 feet tall +/-). I used 6X6 green oak posts set as deep as I could get them. I did mention Ozarks right? Anyway in the bottom ground 3 to 3.5 feet holes were no problem. Up top on the ridge, sometimes 18 inches was max (near solid rock). I set the posts on 8 feet centers and used 2X6 lumber for my horizontal runners. I also put a vertical 2X6 on center between the posts for a better appearance and to control warping and sagging. To prevent rot I charred each post from the bottom to slightly above the ground level. The charring is an old timer’s remedy to prevent microbes from entering the wood. Ever found a charred piece of wood out in the woods? I had my lumber sawed by a local sawmill right when I was ready, had all my other supplies and a week off from “work”. Doing this ensured that the wood was green and would be “sawmill strait” to make construction easier. After the oak dries out, pre-drilling and screws is the only thing that works. When it is fresh from the mill, nails go right through it. After the fence was built, I waited until the wood cured, the weather was hot, and it was dry for a couple of weeks. I then used motor oil and diesel fuel (3 to 1) and sprayed the fence with a pump sprayer. It looks awesome, a little rustic, and I only had one board warp but it is in the holding pen and cows don’t seems to mind. When I build my handling and sorting pens I plan on using the same products and methods. Regards [/QUOTE]
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