Bahia question

[ga.prime]

TG, now would probably work if the centipede is not under too much drought stress which would make it somewhat dormant and thus hinder or prevent uptake of the glyphosate. I can't guarantee anything, there's a lot a variability, but I think a pint/acre would probably be more than enough to do it. It would be best if you have very recently cut, raked, and baled hay, thereby exposing as much centipede as possible to the spray solution.

 

[JMJ Farms]

How or what do you use to kill centipede grass out of the bahia grass? That's my only problem with bahia grass, otherwise I wouldn't trade my bahia grass pastures for anything.

Bahia, after it hardens off in late spring and summer and fall , has good resistance to glyphosate. It takes very little glyphosate to kill centipede.

I was hoping you'd read this, is now the time to spray and if so at what rate? Thanks, GP.

I didn't know this. I thought it would take a harrow. Shows my ignorance.

Anyways, liquid nitrogen added to the glyphosate will help with uptake during dry conditions. But it may help the Bahia take up more as well. I'd probably try a smallish spot to start with.

 

[ClinchValley]

Why? Herbicide is our friend used on label.

I just don't care for thought of it at this point. Feel like it's hurting the ground and cannot be good for me. Haha. Gonna have to do something though.

Have some Grazon I've been sitting on since Spring.

Thick grass does nothing against horse nettle I take it? Won't thin it out eventually? Opportunistic type of weed..

 

[Texasmark]

I prefer the Red River Crabgrass it's actually smothering out the Bahia.

I tried to contact the folks in N. Oklahoma that grow the stuff and got no replies. They advertise to have an improved RR that has more near-ground leafing allowing it to tolerate closer clipping. I'm running a drum mower and can't set it to the height recommended for proper maintenance of a long term stand of regular RR. It runs $8.50/# when the regular is a few $ cheaper.

 

[Caustic Burno]

Why? Herbicide is our friend used on label.

I just don't care for thought of it at this point. Feel like it's hurting the ground and cannot be good for me. Haha. Gonna have to do something though.

Have some Grazon I've been sitting on since Spring.

Thick grass does nothing against horse nettle I take it? Won't thin it out eventually? Opportunistic type of weed..

Your ground is already hurt or you wouldn't have the weeds, most prefer an acidic soil. Most grasses closer to neutral. Have you soil tested?

For every pound of weeds growing on your place it's taking the nutrients of four to five pounds of grass. It takes 30 pounds of grass a day to fill a cow.
So your a grass farmer using a bovine
to convert it to cash. Until you take out the seed bank of trash all your doing is throwing away profits buying diesel fighting a losing battle. I don't think Grazon is a cure all and rarely use it preferably using just 2-4-D. Grazon can't tell a good seed from a bad.
On land like described its wonderful and saves a pile of money increasing productivity at the same time.
Now this is were on label becomes very important if I remember correctly horse nettle has to be sprayed in bloom for the most effective kill.

 

[Caustic Burno]

I prefer the Red River Crabgrass it's actually smothering out the Bahia.

I tried to contact the folks in N. Oklahoma that grow the stuff and got no replies. They advertise to have an improved RR that has more near-ground leafing allowing it to tolerate closer clipping. I'm running a drum mower and can't set it to the height recommended for proper maintenance of a long term stand of regular RR. It runs $8.50/# when the regular is a few $ cheaper.

I planted mine in a test plot for pasture and it's taken over in the last 7 years.
I never have cut it for Hay so I have no clue how it tolerates being cut that close.

 

[Texasmark]

I prefer the Red River Crabgrass it's actually smothering out the Bahia.

I tried to contact the folks in N. Oklahoma that grow the stuff and got no replies. They advertise to have an improved RR that has more near-ground leafing allowing it to tolerate closer clipping. I'm running a drum mower and can't set it to the height recommended for proper maintenance of a long term stand of regular RR. It runs $8.50/# when the regular is a few $ cheaper.

I planted mine in a test plot for pasture and it's taken over in the last 7 years.
I never have cut it for Hay so I have no clue how it tolerates being cut that close.

Mind sharing where you bought it? I may try a test plot too and cut it and see what happens. Nothing ventured nothing gained....or lost. posting.php?mode=quote&f=14&p=1533218#

 

[Caustic Burno]

I tried to contact the folks in N. Oklahoma that grow the stuff and got no replies. They advertise to have an improved RR that has more near-ground leafing allowing it to tolerate closer clipping. I'm running a drum mower and can't set it to the height recommended for proper maintenance of a long term stand of regular RR. It runs $8.50/# when the regular is a few $ cheaper.

I planted mine in a test plot for pasture and it's taken over in the last 7 years.
I never have cut it for Hay so I have no clue how it tolerates being cut that close.

Mind sharing where you bought it? I may try a test plot too and cut it and see what happens. Nothing ventured nothing gained....or lost. https://cattletoday.com/forum/posting.p ... p=1533218#

I think it was Hancock seed.

 

[Texasmark]

Thanks. I think they are out of Florida. Bought from them before.

 

[jdg]

Not sure how long its been since your pasture has been turned/disked/worked, but if it's been a while, I wouldn't disturb it. The more disturbance, the worse, from a soil health perspective. Takes a long time to get your underground critters properly established. Turning layers burns up that organic matter, effects infiltration rates, and can create hardpan layers. I would highly recommend a soil test, if you haven't already done that. pH would be the first thing to correct if necessary. Best dollars spent hands down.

Ryegrass can be a helluva winter forage, but it will stick around and compete with your bahia grass in the spring. I would plant cereal rye or oats. Oats better for the cows...cereal rye will head and get out of way for bahia to come on quickest.

I've also used red river. Got it for $5/lb. last year. Planted with a cultipacker/seeder at 4-5 lbs. per acre. It is tremendous feed, and will re-seed, but needs moisture and some fertility to flourish. Better for stockers...but bahia has a much longer season and is hard to beat in south georgia for brood cows.

I rarely, and i mean rarely spray herbicides for anything, but did a few years back dealing with Horse nettle. Pulled out the big gun, Grazon PD. Killed all broadleaf weeds in pasture. The next year, very little Horsenettle, but my arrow leaf sida (tea weed/ironweed) dominated EVERYTHING. The following year, my horse nettle starting creeping back in. Cows will bite the tops of the Sida, but they aint too interested in the horse nettle, for obvious reasons.

 

[greybeard]

"but my arrow leaf sida (tea weed/ironweed) dominated EVERYTHING. The following year, my horse nettle starting creeping back in. Cows will bite the tops of the Sida,...."
That stuff is HARD to get rid of no matter where it grows, and I have it both right around my house/shop and in pastures. Pretty easy in the early spring when it's only got a few leaves, but once it gets very tall, it doesn't even mow well. Call it ironweed here, for good reason. The stems are like metal wire.

 

[M-5]

I have alot of iron weed on the perimeter areas and under the trees . Grazon will kill it . sometimes takes 2 applications but with time a persistence you can get rid of it.