Opinion on this post driver...

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Forgot to add I drove over 100 6" post in a long weekend in a drought, so it was definitely a fairly quick process compared to some.

Rental wasn't cheap but proved to be worth it.
 
504RP said:
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This is a shaver and I would guess it could drive up to a 6 inch in diameter pipe through a paved highway. I don’t have a second person helping me when I am using it. It’s pretty simple to use post driver. You can’t see the front because of the shadow but you can see a lever sticking out to one side that is spring loaded. I folds in to hold the pipe in place while you are driving it. I think I paid a couple thousand for mine 8 years ago. Never had any problems with. Use it on my 2WD TN65. I like the fact that I can load the tractor/front end loader and driver attached onto a 16 foot utility trailer and drive however far I am needing to go work. It’s compact enough that it’s easy to move.
 
I like the driver. If you don't mind, I made the pics easier to view. Thanks


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That's the baby Shaver pounder. I had one for a while but it struggled with 2-7/8" pipe sometimes and failed at 4.5" pipe and bigger in my ground. Went up to the HD-12 and it'll drive telephone poles if needed. The HD-12 also gives a guy hydraulic leveling in 2 directions.

Mine is a 2 man operation because its on a skid steer which requires an operator in the seat for the hydraulics to work. Having one mounted on a loader is the only way to drive tall posts.
 
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chevytaHOE5674 said:
That's the baby Shaver pounder. I had one for a while but it struggled with 2-7/8" pipe sometimes and failed at 4.5" pipe and bigger in my ground. Went up to the HD-12 and it'll drive telephone poles if needed. The HD-12 also gives a guy hydraulic leveling in 2 directions.

Mine is a 2 man operation because its on a skid steer which requires an operator in the seat for the hydraulics to work. Having one mounted on a loader is the only way to drive tall posts.
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I think they are good post drivers. I have driven lots 2 7/8’s with mine and never had issues. It would drive 2 7/8 through a compacted paved highway I believe.

I make all of my fence bracing out of 2 7/8’s Am starting to rebuild my barn but will use 2 dia x 5 foot reinforced concrete footers using weld plates to weld I- beams to. I built a 50’ x 75’ pole barn using 36 telephone poles 25 years ago and it’s still standing. Dug each hole with post hole diggers. Stood them all up by myself. Built the whole barn by myself. Except for my wife and daughter helping me get the sheet metal on the roof of it.
 
All depends on your ground. I've got rock hard clay that puts up a heck of a fight. The HD8 like you have has something like 30,000 of driving force and in my ground it would take 30+ minutes to get a piece of 2-7/8 down to 6' deep. The HD12 has 110,000lbs of force will do it in 5 minutes.
 
I’ll bet that makes twice as much racket, but less than half as cute as my darlin when she’s trying to bust rocks three feet down a corner post hole.
 
chevytaHOE5674 said:
All depends on your ground. I've got rock hard clay that puts up a heck of a fight. The HD8 like you have has something like 30,000 of driving force and in my ground it would take 30+ minutes to get a piece of 2-7/8 down to 6' deep. The HD12 has 110,000lbs of force will do it in 5 minutes.
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I see what you mean and you are right. Most of the ones I drive are only 3 foot deep. I cut my drill stem into 8 foot lengths. But it works good for my purposes. I saw a man building barb wire fence he made his living building fences with it. He let me drive a couple of post with it and at first I was a little nervous driving a post using it. After I got use to it. I really like it. Around here the ground isn’t level in places that I have to sometimes build fence but with that TN65 I feel more comfortable driving post on slopes or hills because it sits closer to the ground. I could use that driver on my 4WD TL90 and would if I had too on level ground. But I can get around better using the smaller tractor.
 
They are a decent driver, I owned one for a bit. I just would never own another hammer style driver. Vibratory is where it is at. They make that same machine in a vibratory style now. If they had that when I bought mine I might would still own it.
 
I borrowed a vibratory style from a neighbor and was less than impressed. It struggled to get a post in past a foot or two.

I can see where if you had the right soil that style would be slick.
 
As you can see in the picture where I have that driver setting. That is a gas well pad and less than 20 foot behind it is were the well head was before they plugged that gas well. Before they ever set up a drilling rig to drill a gas well they have to build the pad with dozers and sheep foot rollers to compact the soil so that when they set the drilling rig up to drill the soil is compacted well enough to support no telling how many tons of weight that the rig weighs. And I have numerous 2 7/8 inch diameter 8 foot post driven 3 foot + deep in that pad and never had no problem whatsoever driving them with the driver in the picture. I have never had any problems driving that same size pipe anywhere or anytime I have driven post with it. And although you can’t see in the picture that well pad is built on top of a ridge top. They pushed the 5 foot of the ridge top with bull dozers off to get to a solid foundation before they were done building that pad. I would have to say that is about as hard of ground as ground can be. I am wondering if that driver you had might have had some kind of problems ? It should have drove 2 7/8 pipe easy I don’t care how hard the soil was. I will take a picture of how deep of a cut was made to build that drilling rig pad and show you.
 
It was brand new and the dealer set it up. Doubt there was anything wrong.

Hard dry soil is one thing. Ours is hard wet sticky clay. I can put the bucket of my 55k lb excavator on a piece of 2-7/8" pipe and lift the machine up but not push it into the ground. Also to pull a pipe driven 6' deep is often impossible with that excavator, there's a few on the farm that I had to dig down 3' before I could pull them, and one I dug down 3' and still couldn't pull it so I cut it off and buried it. The friction and suction to damp-ish red clay is incredible.

There's a reason they make the larger drivers for different soil conditions.

Around here a post 3' in the ground wouldn't last a season. 6-7' is where I put them to keep the frost from floating them out.

Like everything farming/ranching its all regional. What works here doesn't always work there and what works there doesn't always work here.
 
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Ouachita said:
I was given some white oak lumber about 35 years ago when I was building a small barn. I couldn’t drive a regular pointed nail through it to save my arse.

A “well seasoned” older man told me to grind that point off to a blunt tip. Everything was right with the world after that. Seems counterintuitive, but I could drive the nail without bending it.

I think the pointed nail caused so much friction around the perimeter of the nail, and the blunt tip just busted through. I’ve never used a fence post driver, but I can imagine similar circumstances
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you can also just put the head of the nail on a solid object and blunt the tip with a hammer
 
jltrent said:
or one like it.....
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Nice rig. Ours is almost identical. Can't really go wrong with a Danuser. That specific one will sink a RR tie any day of the year in our pastures.

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chevytaHOE5674 said:
Like everything farming/ranching its all regional. What works here doesn't always work there and what works there doesn't always work here.
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We're even weirder, over here what works here doesn't always even work here.
 
Goldfinch said:
Nice rig. Ours is almost identical. Can't really go wrong with a Danuser. That specific one will sink a RR tie any day of the year in our pastures.

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We're even weirder, over here what works here doesn't always even work here.
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I don't like using a sighter line like that, I will run one out and mark the spot on the ground for the posts with marker paint. I find when working off a string line each post will invariably move the line over a fraction and before you know it your fence line takes on a banana shape. Maybe you are more carefull than me.

Ken
 

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