Bought a No Till Drill

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fnfarms1

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Miami, OK (NE OK)
So I've been kicking around buying one for 3+yrs. Wife's been on me for 2+ to do it. Hard to pull the trigger at 10k for used rig. Considered a conventional drill and just accept a lesser germination rate. Anyway I happened onto a Case IH 5400 drill with Great Plains coulter caddy. Drill seems pretty solid, needs 3-4 openers replaced which came with it. The guy recommended a "hammer strap hitch" which I'd never heard of. Priced one at Kubota for $600. Yeah think I can make one for $100. Might not be pretty but I tend to build things hell for stout. Any ideas or help with hammer straps that worked for you? Mines a Kubota 9540. Here's couple pics of drill, couple of hitches. Last one is homemade hitch I think I can do but improved version
 

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What does the hitch look like on the caddie?
We run all green (JD) tractors and use hammer straps for certain things. Saves on drawbar wear when you have a lot of tongue weight.
 
SBMF 2015 said:
Yep, hammer strap would probably be best.
Does your draw bar have the extra holes in it to add one?
Click to expand...
Yes it does. Just not going to spend 600 on one. Although I’ll admit I probably should. But seems to simple not to make my own, plus I like welding/shop projects. Really my favorite thing.
 
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sstterry said:
I found several online for a Kubota 9540 priced between $100-$150.
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Send them to me. I could google several but they are always for M49xx-M8030. When I called the dealer they said they didn’t show one for the 9540 but it’s same drawbar as the MX105 and that’s the one they quoted me 600 for
 
fnfarms1 said:
Send them to me. I could google several but they are always for M49xx-M8030. When I called the dealer they said they didn't show one for the 9540 but it's same drawbar as the MX105 and that's the one they quoted me 600 for
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I can't seem to find them now. It is very possible that when I first looked, I used the wrong model number.
 
fnfarms1 said:
Similar to this. That swivel eye type hitch
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I have no love for the swivel eye hitch.

The drill and caddy are good machines. We have an old 5100 end wheel conventional drill, it’s ancient. Don’t use it much anymore, but I’ve drilled thousands of acres of soybeans and wheat with it in my life. Can’t beat the case IH drill, except with a Great Plains maybe.
 
BFE said:
I have no love for the swivel eye hitch.

The drill and caddy are good machines. We have an old 5100 end wheel conventional drill, it's ancient. Don't use it much anymore, but I've drilled thousands of acres of soybeans and wheat with it in my life. Can't beat the case IH drill, except with a Great Plains maybe.
Click to expand...
I would submit that Deere makes an excellent no till drill. In fact they may make the only zero till drill.
 
Silver said:
I would submit that Deere makes an excellent no till drill. In fact they may make the only zero till drill.
BFE said:
I have no love for the swivel eye hitch.

The drill and caddy are good machines. We have an old 5100 end wheel conventional drill, it's ancient. Don't use it much anymore, but I've drilled thousands of acres of soybeans and wheat with it in my life. Can't beat the case IH drill, except with a Great Plains maybe.
Click to expand...
Any help with the disk openers and bolts? I found the bolt size 5/8inch-11 x 1.25inch.however I cant find if there’s a left and right handed threads or all same. There’s left and right disks, seems to me there’s should be left and right bolts to prevent them backing off but cannot get any answer to that
Click to expand...
 
Silver said:
I would submit that Deere makes an excellent no till drill. In fact they may make the only zero till drill.
Click to expand...
There's several manufacturers that make/did make a single disc drill. Flexi-Coil had one, Sunflower still does, and of course JD. Regionally there's a few double disc no till set-ups as well. Yielders were big around here but have gone the way of the Dodo for shank no tills. Palouse Welding still builds no-tills with multiple configurations, double disc fertilizer and seed, shank fert. with double disc seed. Yielders were all double disc fert and seed. Salford still makes a double disc no till as well. There were a few Great Plains with the lead coulter set up with fertilizer but they'd have seed burn setting wheat right over the fertilizer band if the ground wasn't fluffy enough to close it up.

It was always joked that Yielders and Palouse Zero Tills could seed into concrete they were so heavy, big Yielders you wanted no less than 400 hp. A guy had to farm smart with that few of horses too. Our 40' NH shank drill will run our 535 quad up to 108% power boost on some pulls. I don't know how flat landers stay awake.
 
fnfarms1 said:
Send them to me. I could google several but they are always for M49xx-M8030. When I called the dealer they said they didn't show one for the 9540 but it's same drawbar as the MX105 and that's the one they quoted me 600 for
Click to expand...
This shows one. I have one and it fits my M9000 and M6800. This shows the M9540 also.

https://www.messicks.com/parts/kubota/m9594
 
jltrent said:
This shows one. I have one and it fits my M9000 and M6800. This shows the M9540 also.

https://www.messicks.com/parts/kubota/m9594
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Wish I’d had that info 7days ago. lol. I really do appreciate it though. I found a guy through eBay that built me one. Could have built my own but time always seems my issue. Cost me $200 but it’s done and drill is nearly ready. Hoping to use it Monday-Tuesday this week.
 

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I can’t remember on the drill. The 800,900 and so on planters did have left or right hand threads depending on which side the opener was on, so it wouldn’t surprise me if the drill was the same.
 
BFE said:
I can’t remember on the drill. The 800,900 and so on planters did have left or right hand threads depending on which side the opener was on, so it wouldn’t surprise me if the drill was the same.
Click to expand...
I’ll ask my dad today, he’s rebuilt our old drill many times. Last time we did was around 15 years ago, we don’t use it much anymore since it’s not no till.
 
BFE said:
I can’t remember on the drill. The 800,900 and so on planters did have left or right hand threads depending on which side the opener was on, so it wouldn’t surprise me if the drill was the same.
Click to expand...
Thanks guys for the replies. They are lefts and rights. Closest IH dealer wants 15/bolt for the lefts. Found them online for 3.37/bolt. 1.37/bolt for the rights.

Now anyone know roughly the setting for wheat on the back slider adjustment? According to chart it’s 16ish for 2bushel/acre. As I used it seems to be closer to 28ish for 2bush/acre.

Wheats already up 3+inches. Pretty happy with results. Has few issues I’m working on but wow I’m happy doing my own.

Guy I’ve been paying to no till text last week. I ask him July 23 to be on list to no till for me by Labor Day, knew I was early but wanted to get it in ground on time. Most guys say Labor Day is ideal. He said yeah no problem. Never another word. Last week he text and now pissed cuz he’s out now. Told me not to ask again. No problem, bought my own MF’er. I get things happen but communicate. Texting me 45days after I’d hopped to have it in ground isn’t good. Communicating that equip broke down or whatever would have helped. When I ask, buying a no till was a year off yet. Then I found one and he’s MIA
 
Texas Ranch Hand said:
I have a question. I have a JD 6135 that I can’t seem to find a premade hammer strap for. I can make one easy enough but if the drawbar isn’t pre drilled is there any reason to not drill the required hole(s)? Any downside to this?
Click to expand...
I’d be afraid of weakening the draw bar. I’d probably take it to machine shop at least and let them drill it if you really want it done. Also depends how heavy the draw bar is, my kubotas isn’t all that heavy duty 1.25inches thick and 2.5 or 3inches wide. I could have made my own but was on a time crunch and by ordering it, it was here the day I got back from vacation, ready to go.
Could make a bracket with u-bolts instead of drilling it. Be the same concept. The hammer strap just makes a more even put on the bar instead of letting the drill pull at such an angle.
 

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