Everything but grass!

wobbie1775

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
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177
City & State/Province
Pomona, MO
My 'pastures' are over 50% poison ivy (by area) and my corriente longhorn criolo type cows don't eat it. They will pluck a leaf from a blackberry or rose bush every so often...but they do not eat poison ivy or anything else pictured... I would be grateful if any of you wanted to help ID these plants and maybe give me a recommendation on ridding my pastures of them. The first pic is an "overview" and if you zoom in you will see....lots of PI.
 

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My 'pastures' are over 50% poison ivy (by area) and my corriente longhorn criolo type cows don't eat it. They will pluck a leaf from a blackberry or rose bush every so often...but they do not eat poison ivy or anything else pictured... I would be grateful if any of you wanted to help ID these plants and maybe give me a recommendation on ridding my pastures of them. The first pic is an "overview" and if you zoom in you will see....lots of PI.
24D
 
I got some grazon next that I have been 'learning' how to use in another 5 acre pasture that isn't fenced in yet. I got a back pack sprayer and targeted the fenceline and a few high-density-ivy areas. It seems to work on PI somewhat; unsure of the long term efficacy. Not sure if there are other more successful silver bullets out there for the PI or other plants.
 
I got some grazon next that I have been 'learning' how to use in another 5 acre pasture that isn't fenced in yet. I got a back pack sprayer and targeted the fenceline and a few high-density-ivy areas. It seems to work on PI somewhat; unsure of the long term efficacy. Not sure if there are other more successful silver bullets out there for the PI or other plants.
Do you have a PTO sprayer for your tractor?
 
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Hard to tell but first pic looks like Western Ragweed. Grss won't grow once it takes over. We use Banvil on it. Not sure how many acres you are trying to control but you need an ATV sprayer at a minimum. It'll take 10 gallons of water per acre to be effective at weed control. Good luck
 
I see only 1 picture of poison ivy. Lots of other weeds. Soil test, spray, get some grass going.
The pics got reordered when I posted, but the one that is zoomed out and looking at the hillside, if you look there, all the leafy plant matter is poison ivy. There is grass growing below it, but the PI almost makes a canopy about 18 inches above the ground.
 
Hard to tell but first pic looks like Western Ragweed. Grss won't grow once it takes over. We use Banvil on it. Not sure how many acres you are trying to control but you need an ATV sprayer at a minimum. It'll take 10 gallons of water per acre to be effective at weed control. Good luck
I think I have about 60-80 acres that is or was pasture in recent years (we just moved here in Aug '23). Something I didnt take pics of is the blackberry/rose bush combos that are 8-10 feet tall (in some places) and covering a 30 ft diameter circle. I will look into ragweed to see if I can positively ID it. That particular plant you are referencing isn't too prevalent, only in a couple shady areas near some gates. I would still rather have grass there though!
 
Grazon will work just fine but you’ll need someone that has a tractor spray rig. I know many of the weeds in the pics. Kinda the same I am battling. Grazon will do you a good job
 
You have quite a variety of weeds. For most of the broadleaf weeds, 2,4-d will probably handle them. But weedmaster is a herbicide that combines 2,4-d and dicamba (banvel). That will give a better result than 2,4-d alone on some weeds. The price of weedmaster and 2,4-d are about the same, so I generally use weedmaster instead of just 2,4-d. Weedmaster and 2,4-d will not be enough for the horsenettle.

Next up on the broadleaf weed control for me would be Grazon. There are two versions, Grazon P+D and Grazon Next. In most states, the Next version does not require a license, but the P+D does. I think both have generic versions now.

Next step up for me would be Duracor. No license required, no 2,4-d in it and will control the horse nettle (after a few years of treatment). Grazon and duracor have residual components. Meaning that they stay active in the soil for many months. Good for weed control, but maybe bad for establishment of new grasses

For the woody stem plants (looks like some small trees) and the briars, probably Remedy (different names for the generic version).

Some of those can be combined. Like weedmaster and remedy in the same tank mix. READ the label for all these, but especially if you tank mix herbicides to spray together.

Use the rate on the label. Don't use more. That may give a quick burn, but may stop the movement of the herbicide in the weed that finishes it off. Don't spray with diesel fuel in the mix. Some people do and are proud of the quick burndown. But longer term results are more important than a quick droop.

If you have neighbors with gardens or crops adjacent, understand the issues of drift and volatility that might damage those crops.

In addition to selection of the herbicides, effective weed control also depends on the stage of growth of the weeds (harder to kill the older/bigger weeds), time of the year and the amount of moisture in the ground (weeds that are growing well are easier to control. Harder to kill in very dry conditions). Use a good surfactant with the herbicides - not dishwashing soap.

As has already been said, get a soil test. I suspect that that soil is hungry for some nutrients and some lime. When/if you get the weeds under control, is there enough grass there to thrive and produce a pasture? Or will some work be required there?
 
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You have quite a variety of weeds. For most of the broadleaf weeds, 2,4-d will probably handle them. But weedmaster is a herbicide that combines 2,4-d and dicamba (banvel). That will give a better result than 2,4-d alone on some weeds. The price of weedmaster and 2,4-d are about the same, so I generally use weedmaster instead of just 2,4-d. Weedmaster and 2,4-d will not be enough for the horsenettle.

Next up on the broadleaf weed control for me would be Grazon. There are two versions, Grazon P+D and Grazon Next. In most states, the Next version does not require a license, but the P+D does. I think both have generic versions now.

Next step up for me would be Duracor. No license required, no 2,4-d in it and will control the horse nettle (after a few years of treatment). Grazon and duracor have residual components. Meaning that they stay active in the soil for many months. Good for weed control, but maybe bad for establishment of new grasses

For the woody stem plants (looks like some small trees) and the briars, probably Remedy (different names for the generic version).

Some of those can be combined. Like weedmaster and remedy in the same tank mix. READ the label for all these, but especially if you tank mix herbicides to spray together.

Use the rate on the label. Don't use more. That may give a quick burn, but may stop the movement of the herbicide in the weed that finishes it off. Don't spray with diesel fuel in the mix. Some people do and are proud of the quick burndown. But longer term results are more important than a quick droop.

If you have neighbors with gardens or crops adjacent, understand the issues of drift and volatility that might damage those crops.

In addition to selection of the herbicides, effective weed control also depends on the stage of growth of the weeds (harder to kill the older/bigger weeds), time of the year and the amount of moisture in the ground (weeds that are growing well are easier to control. Harder to kill in very dry conditions). Use a good surfactant with the herbicides - not dishwashing soap.

As has already been said, get a soil test. I suspect that that soil is hungry for some nutrients and some lime. When/if you get the weeds under control, is there enough grass there to thrive and produce a pasture? Or will some work be required there?
Understood on following the directions. Got a surfactant that was in line with what the Grazon Next called for. Neighbor is 100% national forest and a county road so not too many concerns there. I do need to do the soil test still and I "think" there is enough grass in most places that once the weeds are dead/dying the grass should do at least as good as the other areas which is pretty decent for now. One area (maybe 1/2 acre or so?) has a higher tree density so there is almost no direct light and that area has the weakest grass, so maybe I'll need to remove a couple of those trees to get some sun on the ground.
 
The best thing we ever did was incorporate goats into our cattle rotation. After the cattle graze an area, the goats are moved in. Then whatever they don't eat before they are rotated along will get either mowed or sprayed and sometimes both. It has greatly reduced our spraying needs and gives an extra side hustle selling goats.
 
My cows will readily eat poison ivy. Thought all cows would. Oh well.
Interesting fact, poison ivy actually isnt poison. Cows and other animals can eat it, lay in it, whatever. For some reason the human body reacts to it though. Some people much worse than others. Its a reaction to the plant from the body, not the plant poisoning the body.
 
You may have more grass than you think, once you get all those weeds under control. For some of them, you're almost too late. Gone to seedhead already. Some I recognize as growing on high dry ground, others I have seen before growing prolifically in low damp places, and those are hard to control. Viney crap. You want to try to get them in early stages of growth next year but yes, follow some of the suggestions above. I really liked Remedy/2,4D mix.
 

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