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Water gap
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<blockquote data-quote="jayfarmlaw" data-source="post: 559859" data-attributes="member: 7472"><p>OK, Im cheap anyway and had to rebuild a watergap on a lease. This creek is 34 feet wide and about a 12 foot drop from level ground but there is enough creek bank to get h-braces in. The water is usually about 2 foot deep but when it floods....katy bar the door... the creek will really get to rolling. There is no telling what will wash down either. </p><p></p><p>I built steel h-braces in place sinking them as far as I cold dig...about 4 foot and concreted them in. Next String a cable as previously described. My cable was about 5 feet above the water. Then I used a piece of 6 foot chain link fence that someone had given me. You can usually find chain link fence cheap or free if you look long enough. I attached the chain link to the cable using double wrapped bailing wire about every foot and slid it across as I went likie a shower curtain. Then use single wrapped bailing wire to attach it to the h-braces. I used the nastiest rusties bailing wire I could find on the h-braces with the idea that I wanted this to break is something big came down the creek.</p><p></p><p>The cattle have never tested it and since the bottom of the wire is under water, there really is not a place to get a nose under to test it. The fence itself has enough give that most debris will simply wash under it. I had a big BIG tree break the h-brace wire (just like it was supposed to) but it just took a chain saw and about 10 minutes and it was wired back just like new.</p><p></p><p>Lots of people told me chain link would not work, it would catch too much debris and to use tin panel instead. This has worked great soo far and survived at least 7 flood events.</p><p></p><p>It was cheap, relatively easy, and so far has worked great as a water gap. I will use chain link from now on until I am proven wrong.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps, good luck.</p><p></p><p>Jay</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jayfarmlaw, post: 559859, member: 7472"] OK, Im cheap anyway and had to rebuild a watergap on a lease. This creek is 34 feet wide and about a 12 foot drop from level ground but there is enough creek bank to get h-braces in. The water is usually about 2 foot deep but when it floods....katy bar the door... the creek will really get to rolling. There is no telling what will wash down either. I built steel h-braces in place sinking them as far as I cold dig...about 4 foot and concreted them in. Next String a cable as previously described. My cable was about 5 feet above the water. Then I used a piece of 6 foot chain link fence that someone had given me. You can usually find chain link fence cheap or free if you look long enough. I attached the chain link to the cable using double wrapped bailing wire about every foot and slid it across as I went likie a shower curtain. Then use single wrapped bailing wire to attach it to the h-braces. I used the nastiest rusties bailing wire I could find on the h-braces with the idea that I wanted this to break is something big came down the creek. The cattle have never tested it and since the bottom of the wire is under water, there really is not a place to get a nose under to test it. The fence itself has enough give that most debris will simply wash under it. I had a big BIG tree break the h-brace wire (just like it was supposed to) but it just took a chain saw and about 10 minutes and it was wired back just like new. Lots of people told me chain link would not work, it would catch too much debris and to use tin panel instead. This has worked great soo far and survived at least 7 flood events. It was cheap, relatively easy, and so far has worked great as a water gap. I will use chain link from now on until I am proven wrong. Hope this helps, good luck. Jay [/QUOTE]
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