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Water gap
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<blockquote data-quote="TREY-L" data-source="post: 556085" data-attributes="member: 6073"><p>I constructed my water gaps using tin and cable.</p><p></p><p>First build two H braces, one on each side of the creek. Be sure to set these deep and brace properly with wire.</p><p></p><p>Next, use a piece of cable and string it across the creek connecting it securely to the inside post of each H brace at approximately 3 to 4 feet above the water level. You may run your cable all the way around the post and clamp it or through an eye bolt which has been screwed into the post and clamp it. On one side I like to use a turnbuckle so you will be able to tighten it after securing your cable with cable clamps. Attach the turnbuckle to the post with an eye bolt and run your cable through the other end of the turnbuckle and clamp it off. I like to use 2 cable clamps on each side, back to back, as this reduces the chances of your cable pulling through the clamp.</p><p></p><p>After that, I used pieces of tin with 2 x 4's screwed to the top and bottom (horizontal). Then drill holes through the 2 x 4's and tin so you may run brace wire through them in order to hang them off of the main cable. I adjusted the height of my tin with these. Drill a hole at each end to fasten your sections of tin together (at the top) with brace wire to prevent them from sliding on the main cable and over lapping one another. Attach the two end pieces of tin to the inside post of the H braces with brace wire. </p><p>Remember to place the smooth sides of the tin (no 2 x 4's) in the upstream direction, so debris won't catch on the 2 x 4's. </p><p></p><p>When the creek rises or floods the current will push the tin up and it will "surf" across the top of the water. Debris will also not catch on the smooth tin and will just push the tin up and float under it.</p><p>They are real simple to construct, but kind of complicated to explain (especially at 3 am).</p><p></p><p>I hope this helps.</p><p>Trey</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TREY-L, post: 556085, member: 6073"] I constructed my water gaps using tin and cable. First build two H braces, one on each side of the creek. Be sure to set these deep and brace properly with wire. Next, use a piece of cable and string it across the creek connecting it securely to the inside post of each H brace at approximately 3 to 4 feet above the water level. You may run your cable all the way around the post and clamp it or through an eye bolt which has been screwed into the post and clamp it. On one side I like to use a turnbuckle so you will be able to tighten it after securing your cable with cable clamps. Attach the turnbuckle to the post with an eye bolt and run your cable through the other end of the turnbuckle and clamp it off. I like to use 2 cable clamps on each side, back to back, as this reduces the chances of your cable pulling through the clamp. After that, I used pieces of tin with 2 x 4's screwed to the top and bottom (horizontal). Then drill holes through the 2 x 4's and tin so you may run brace wire through them in order to hang them off of the main cable. I adjusted the height of my tin with these. Drill a hole at each end to fasten your sections of tin together (at the top) with brace wire to prevent them from sliding on the main cable and over lapping one another. Attach the two end pieces of tin to the inside post of the H braces with brace wire. Remember to place the smooth sides of the tin (no 2 x 4's) in the upstream direction, so debris won't catch on the 2 x 4's. When the creek rises or floods the current will push the tin up and it will "surf" across the top of the water. Debris will also not catch on the smooth tin and will just push the tin up and float under it. They are real simple to construct, but kind of complicated to explain (especially at 3 am). I hope this helps. Trey [/QUOTE]
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