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Transmission Overhaul
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<blockquote data-quote="Earl Thigpen" data-source="post: 302218" data-attributes="member: 3999"><p>I sure wish I could help you, pardner. I'm just too old to be rolling arouind the ground under a 200 lb transmission but I can give you advise and hope that helps. Besides being too old I'm in Texas and you're in Mo.</p><p></p><p>Since your truck is 17 years old I think you got pretty good service out of it but here's a couple of tips that might improve things a little for you. </p><p></p><p>1) install an external cooler, one that is seperate from the cooler in the radiator. The coolers are rated in lbs so get one that is in the 20,000 lb range and mount it in front of the radiator and/or the A/C condenser. It needs to be the first heat exchanger the cool air hits. Cut the steel tubing on the factory cooling lines attached to the radiator. Get the line that goes BACK to the transmission and hook your ext. cooler in series with that line. </p><p></p><p>2) have your transmission guy install a stage one "shift kit". This will "quicken up" the time between shifts and will help prevent wear on the friction discs while they are slipping past one another on their way to full engagement. (don't go crazy here. You just want a little quicker engagment and better timing between shifts - not something that will give you whip lash when it shifts) </p><p></p><p>3) your mechanic can play games with the clearance between the friction and steel discs for the forward control ONLY. The only time the forward clutch control unit is in the "slip" mode is when your backing up so that's not a lot of time. </p><p></p><p>And 4) the mechanic can also play games with the piston return springs in the forward clutch control unit by removing every other spring. Some auto manufacturers have gotten smart with this trick in that they have made the number of springs a prime number (13 or 17 springs) so that it's near on impossible to remove springs without unbalancing the return pressure.</p><p></p><p>Last but not least, I think you made the right choice in getting the thing rebuilt rather than getting one from the salvage yard. You've got history with your transmission - it has worked for almost twenty years. What you might get out of the salvage yard - well, it's anyones guess. Good luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Earl Thigpen, post: 302218, member: 3999"] I sure wish I could help you, pardner. I'm just too old to be rolling arouind the ground under a 200 lb transmission but I can give you advise and hope that helps. Besides being too old I'm in Texas and you're in Mo. Since your truck is 17 years old I think you got pretty good service out of it but here's a couple of tips that might improve things a little for you. 1) install an external cooler, one that is seperate from the cooler in the radiator. The coolers are rated in lbs so get one that is in the 20,000 lb range and mount it in front of the radiator and/or the A/C condenser. It needs to be the first heat exchanger the cool air hits. Cut the steel tubing on the factory cooling lines attached to the radiator. Get the line that goes BACK to the transmission and hook your ext. cooler in series with that line. 2) have your transmission guy install a stage one "shift kit". This will "quicken up" the time between shifts and will help prevent wear on the friction discs while they are slipping past one another on their way to full engagement. (don't go crazy here. You just want a little quicker engagment and better timing between shifts - not something that will give you whip lash when it shifts) 3) your mechanic can play games with the clearance between the friction and steel discs for the forward control ONLY. The only time the forward clutch control unit is in the "slip" mode is when your backing up so that's not a lot of time. And 4) the mechanic can also play games with the piston return springs in the forward clutch control unit by removing every other spring. Some auto manufacturers have gotten smart with this trick in that they have made the number of springs a prime number (13 or 17 springs) so that it's near on impossible to remove springs without unbalancing the return pressure. Last but not least, I think you made the right choice in getting the thing rebuilt rather than getting one from the salvage yard. You've got history with your transmission - it has worked for almost twenty years. What you might get out of the salvage yard - well, it's anyones guess. Good luck! [/QUOTE]
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