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Sealing stock tank?
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<blockquote data-quote="RDFF" data-source="post: 1822299" data-attributes="member: 39018"><p>I've posted about how mine is set up before. I used a utility hydrant for the water inlet (same functionally as a yard hydrant, except that it has a top mounted regular valve handle that I remove so it doesn't get broke if a cow gets in the tank). That come up in the center through the concrete floor. Followed by a means to put a snorkelled air inlet (so you can let the hydrant drain without pulling tank water in). Followed by an anti-siphon check valve (to keep tank water from flowing backward into the supply line if the well pump quits working. Then I install a 1/8" needle valve in a T, followed by a float controlled tank valve.</p><p></p><p>The 4" PVC in the center is a drain, which is connected to my field tile and then out to the creek. I have a female connector at the cement line, and install a 4" riser into that, up to the "full tank level", and then I put a 4" vent stack on top to keep the debris out of the drain line... like algea, etc. In winter, open the 1/8" needle valve as much as is necessary to keep the tank from freezing... excess "leaking water" flows into the drain stand pipe. You can see the air inlet snorkel hose that I've clamped onto the drain stand pipe, to get it up above the full water line.</p><p></p><p>Filled with 1 1/2" screened gravel all around about 12" deep, to avoid mud.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]35929[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RDFF, post: 1822299, member: 39018"] I've posted about how mine is set up before. I used a utility hydrant for the water inlet (same functionally as a yard hydrant, except that it has a top mounted regular valve handle that I remove so it doesn't get broke if a cow gets in the tank). That come up in the center through the concrete floor. Followed by a means to put a snorkelled air inlet (so you can let the hydrant drain without pulling tank water in). Followed by an anti-siphon check valve (to keep tank water from flowing backward into the supply line if the well pump quits working. Then I install a 1/8" needle valve in a T, followed by a float controlled tank valve. The 4" PVC in the center is a drain, which is connected to my field tile and then out to the creek. I have a female connector at the cement line, and install a 4" riser into that, up to the "full tank level", and then I put a 4" vent stack on top to keep the debris out of the drain line... like algea, etc. In winter, open the 1/8" needle valve as much as is necessary to keep the tank from freezing... excess "leaking water" flows into the drain stand pipe. You can see the air inlet snorkel hose that I've clamped onto the drain stand pipe, to get it up above the full water line. Filled with 1 1/2" screened gravel all around about 12" deep, to avoid mud. [ATTACH type="full"]35929[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Sealing stock tank?
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