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Rotational Grazing Question.
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<blockquote data-quote="SRBeef" data-source="post: 881111" data-attributes="member: 7509"><p>In my own mind I try to keep it simple: Graze the grass when it gets to 10" tall and graze it down to 4" tall. That's really about all you need to know about rotational grazing to get started.</p><p></p><p>Don't let the grass get taller than 10" if it does get taller at certain times of the year before you can graze it, mow/clip it down to 4". This keeps grass in the leafy vegetative state, taller than that it losses nutrition and goes to seed.</p><p></p><p>Don't let the grass get shorter than 4" so it has leaf area and reserves to grow back.</p><p></p><p>How much area you give them depends on how many head you have and how long between moves works for you.</p><p></p><p>Ideally no more than 4 days but I personally use 7 day rotations. Better yet move them daily. This is especially helpful in keeping down weeds.</p><p></p><p>To figure how much area your herd needs, give them a small, but known/measured area of 10" tall grass at first and see how long it takes them to eat it down to 4". Then you can adjust that area for the time period you want or need between moves.</p><p></p><p>Keep it simple. In practice the area will change with the seasons and rain but you will get a feel for it.</p><p></p><p>Just remember never let the grass get taller than 10" nor shorter than 4". The shorter the rotation period in days the better the weed control.</p><p></p><p>Good Luck.</p><p></p><p>Jim</p><p></p><p>Google the term cow-day of grazing to try to understand cow days as a measure of grass in a field rather than tons etc. Your grass will get better under rotational grazing system. Your focus should be on the grass. Depending on soils etc and where you are starting from, your expenses will vary. We are really grass farmers. Do some soil tests and see what your ground needs to grow good 10" tall grass. Lime, fertilizer, remove compaction, etc. Once you get the system going you will be surprised at how the grass and land improve.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SRBeef, post: 881111, member: 7509"] In my own mind I try to keep it simple: Graze the grass when it gets to 10" tall and graze it down to 4" tall. That's really about all you need to know about rotational grazing to get started. Don't let the grass get taller than 10" if it does get taller at certain times of the year before you can graze it, mow/clip it down to 4". This keeps grass in the leafy vegetative state, taller than that it losses nutrition and goes to seed. Don't let the grass get shorter than 4" so it has leaf area and reserves to grow back. How much area you give them depends on how many head you have and how long between moves works for you. Ideally no more than 4 days but I personally use 7 day rotations. Better yet move them daily. This is especially helpful in keeping down weeds. To figure how much area your herd needs, give them a small, but known/measured area of 10" tall grass at first and see how long it takes them to eat it down to 4". Then you can adjust that area for the time period you want or need between moves. Keep it simple. In practice the area will change with the seasons and rain but you will get a feel for it. Just remember never let the grass get taller than 10" nor shorter than 4". The shorter the rotation period in days the better the weed control. Good Luck. Jim Google the term cow-day of grazing to try to understand cow days as a measure of grass in a field rather than tons etc. Your grass will get better under rotational grazing system. Your focus should be on the grass. Depending on soils etc and where you are starting from, your expenses will vary. We are really grass farmers. Do some soil tests and see what your ground needs to grow good 10" tall grass. Lime, fertilizer, remove compaction, etc. Once you get the system going you will be surprised at how the grass and land improve. [/QUOTE]
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