Menu
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Forums
Non-Cattle Specific Topics
Every Thing Else Board
Pile of Materials part 2 Very Long!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support CattleToday:
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Cattle Rack Rancher" data-source="post: 315083" data-attributes="member: 245"><p>Well, I think I missed the first part of this post, but the company I work for puts up about 200 of these post frame buildings a year. Now, you didn't say where you were from but in Manitoba, our biggest issue is movement due to frost. On a 30' wide building 14" for a hole width is tight. We usually prefer 16" or 18" as it gives you a little more leeway. As far as posts are you using a square timber or a laminated post? As long as the lumber is PWF, it is designed for below ground and should be good for about 60 years. Are you planning to concrete the holes or just fill back using crushed rock? We've done both and usually we just go by the customers preference although we have seen some buildings that were built 25 years ago where the concrete is starting to eat away at the the green treated lumber right at ground level. The most important thing is to make sure that your posts are plumb and in a perfectly straight line on the walls and when you start your trusses, make sure that the first one is perfectly plumb and straight. If you can manage those two things and keep your purlins on the walls and roof straight (mark your trusses before you put them up). Trim your purlin on the roof to a 1/16" below the best length for those purlins and butt them end to end. That way you can pre-drill your roof sheets which usually prevents leaks better than plunge drilling. As far as vapor barrier goes, we always just use 6 mill poly on the inside, If you feel that you need to seal off the steel on the top and bottom on the outside, most people just use closures for this. I also would recommend finishing the inside with steel. Its way more durable in the long run. Anyway, if you have any more questions, please feel free to PM me. Good Luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cattle Rack Rancher, post: 315083, member: 245"] Well, I think I missed the first part of this post, but the company I work for puts up about 200 of these post frame buildings a year. Now, you didn't say where you were from but in Manitoba, our biggest issue is movement due to frost. On a 30' wide building 14" for a hole width is tight. We usually prefer 16" or 18" as it gives you a little more leeway. As far as posts are you using a square timber or a laminated post? As long as the lumber is PWF, it is designed for below ground and should be good for about 60 years. Are you planning to concrete the holes or just fill back using crushed rock? We've done both and usually we just go by the customers preference although we have seen some buildings that were built 25 years ago where the concrete is starting to eat away at the the green treated lumber right at ground level. The most important thing is to make sure that your posts are plumb and in a perfectly straight line on the walls and when you start your trusses, make sure that the first one is perfectly plumb and straight. If you can manage those two things and keep your purlins on the walls and roof straight (mark your trusses before you put them up). Trim your purlin on the roof to a 1/16" below the best length for those purlins and butt them end to end. That way you can pre-drill your roof sheets which usually prevents leaks better than plunge drilling. As far as vapor barrier goes, we always just use 6 mill poly on the inside, If you feel that you need to seal off the steel on the top and bottom on the outside, most people just use closures for this. I also would recommend finishing the inside with steel. Its way more durable in the long run. Anyway, if you have any more questions, please feel free to PM me. Good Luck. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Non-Cattle Specific Topics
Every Thing Else Board
Pile of Materials part 2 Very Long!
Top