Menu
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Forums
Cattle Boards
Trucks, Tractors & Machinery
John Deere 510 baler
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support CattleToday:
Message
<blockquote data-quote="alabama" data-source="post: 261737" data-attributes="member: 2218"><p>I am using a 510 now. And I don't like it but it was cheap and it feeds my cows. Over the years, I have gotten much better at starting a new roll. </p><p>Starting rolls: It is best not to have a huge windrow. And mine likes to start on the left side much better than the right side. So I start on the left and as soon, I run about 5 feet I switch to the right. The belts may cross a little but if it does not start soon you better start over or work a while pulling out the clog. Feed the side with the slack belts. Sometimes in thick hay, I have pulled a little in the left side, then backed up, and pulled a little in the right side as switching over puts too much in the middle before I get both sides running. </p><p>OK so you got the bale started. Just watch what you are doing and try to roll one side then the other keeping the bale even as you go up. Feed the edges only and the middle will take care of it self. I run 1700 RPM at about 4 MPH. On My JD6300, that is gear C 2. By the way, I start and finish in gear C 1. </p><p>Now watch out when the hay gets thick or an un-level spot in the field. If you hit a high spot and it stops the pickup from turning but drags the hay along, when the pick up starts again it tries to put too much through the compression rollers and will clog. Or just trying to feed too much through the compression rollers will clog the bailer. Stop and turn the bailer backwards with a BIG wrench and pull out the clog. Turn off the tractor before working on the bailer.</p><p></p><p>Never try to bail wet or damp hay. The hay will wrap around the front guide bar and clog the bailer. It does this mostly when the bail is full. </p><p></p><p>Keep the gate shut. Mine will drift open if I don't reach over and tap the lever to close often. </p><p></p><p>Tying the bail: I index the string arm manually holding on the end to a count of 10 then bump it about 3 to 4 inches and count to 5. The bail will compress while tying so I run the string back across and tie the first round one more time and then just swing all the way back and cut the string. After cutting, I let it turn another round or two then dump.</p><p></p><p>Make sure the gate latches after you dump. Hay can get stuck over the latch and hold it open so just make sure the indicator shows closed. </p><p></p><p>See nothing to it. I make about 400 4olls a year but this year I am only to 176. Dry dry dry. </p><p></p><p>I have a video that came with the bailer that helped me get started. Look for one on e bay of I can try to make you a copy. </p><p>Please let me know how it goes. </p><p></p><p>Remember to make a good bail first you have to have it raked right and then keep both sides even while bailing. </p><p>May the force be with you. You are going to need it the first day so try on a few acres before you get the farn cut and brake the bailer with a rain comming.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="alabama, post: 261737, member: 2218"] I am using a 510 now. And I don't like it but it was cheap and it feeds my cows. Over the years, I have gotten much better at starting a new roll. Starting rolls: It is best not to have a huge windrow. And mine likes to start on the left side much better than the right side. So I start on the left and as soon, I run about 5 feet I switch to the right. The belts may cross a little but if it does not start soon you better start over or work a while pulling out the clog. Feed the side with the slack belts. Sometimes in thick hay, I have pulled a little in the left side, then backed up, and pulled a little in the right side as switching over puts too much in the middle before I get both sides running. OK so you got the bale started. Just watch what you are doing and try to roll one side then the other keeping the bale even as you go up. Feed the edges only and the middle will take care of it self. I run 1700 RPM at about 4 MPH. On My JD6300, that is gear C 2. By the way, I start and finish in gear C 1. Now watch out when the hay gets thick or an un-level spot in the field. If you hit a high spot and it stops the pickup from turning but drags the hay along, when the pick up starts again it tries to put too much through the compression rollers and will clog. Or just trying to feed too much through the compression rollers will clog the bailer. Stop and turn the bailer backwards with a BIG wrench and pull out the clog. Turn off the tractor before working on the bailer. Never try to bail wet or damp hay. The hay will wrap around the front guide bar and clog the bailer. It does this mostly when the bail is full. Keep the gate shut. Mine will drift open if I don’t reach over and tap the lever to close often. Tying the bail: I index the string arm manually holding on the end to a count of 10 then bump it about 3 to 4 inches and count to 5. The bail will compress while tying so I run the string back across and tie the first round one more time and then just swing all the way back and cut the string. After cutting, I let it turn another round or two then dump. Make sure the gate latches after you dump. Hay can get stuck over the latch and hold it open so just make sure the indicator shows closed. See nothing to it. I make about 400 4olls a year but this year I am only to 176. Dry dry dry. I have a video that came with the bailer that helped me get started. Look for one on e bay of I can try to make you a copy. Please let me know how it goes. Remember to make a good bail first you have to have it raked right and then keep both sides even while bailing. May the force be with you. You are going to need it the first day so try on a few acres before you get the farn cut and brake the bailer with a rain comming. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cattle Boards
Trucks, Tractors & Machinery
John Deere 510 baler
Top