Menu
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Forums
Cattle Boards
Trucks, Tractors & Machinery
John Deere 4020 Electrical Problem
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support CattleToday:
Message
<blockquote data-quote="cornstalk" data-source="post: 475071" data-attributes="member: 911"><p>Ok guys - did some work on this this aft.</p><p></p><p>First off - JD sent me home with the wrong switch. (I didnt have the serial number with me - so was a 50/50 shot). Wrong switch - thats why I dont gamble.</p><p></p><p>Discovered a few things when I came home and took t he old switch apart. 1. The white wire spade was broken off from behind the switch. 2. Checked my wires for voltage with the key off- The blue, and brown are hot 12v's. I have a grey wire that is dim hot with my test light - meter showed 2v's. The rest of the wires were dead with the key off (grn, dbl black, broken white). </p><p></p><p>Interestingly - I started the tractor up and ran the idle up a little - and checked that broken white wire behind the switch for voltage - nothing...dead. Put meter on battery's with tractor running - shows it's charging - 14.2v's. ??</p><p></p><p>I also checked the current via positive terminal post - to positive cable with the tractor off. Showing a 10v draw.</p><p></p><p>The isolator switches on the batteries appeared to work in preventing the draw - as I had 12.5 volts prior to starting the tractor - and was enough to crank er over. (Had sat overnight).</p><p></p><p>I did post this on the tractors.net site also.</p><p></p><p>Let me know if any of this is indicating anything to anyone.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cornstalk, post: 475071, member: 911"] Ok guys - did some work on this this aft. First off - JD sent me home with the wrong switch. (I didnt have the serial number with me - so was a 50/50 shot). Wrong switch - thats why I dont gamble. Discovered a few things when I came home and took t he old switch apart. 1. The white wire spade was broken off from behind the switch. 2. Checked my wires for voltage with the key off- The blue, and brown are hot 12v's. I have a grey wire that is dim hot with my test light - meter showed 2v's. The rest of the wires were dead with the key off (grn, dbl black, broken white). Interestingly - I started the tractor up and ran the idle up a little - and checked that broken white wire behind the switch for voltage - nothing...dead. Put meter on battery's with tractor running - shows it's charging - 14.2v's. ?? I also checked the current via positive terminal post - to positive cable with the tractor off. Showing a 10v draw. The isolator switches on the batteries appeared to work in preventing the draw - as I had 12.5 volts prior to starting the tractor - and was enough to crank er over. (Had sat overnight). I did post this on the tractors.net site also. Let me know if any of this is indicating anything to anyone. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cattle Boards
Trucks, Tractors & Machinery
John Deere 4020 Electrical Problem
Top