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Honey Locust Trees
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<blockquote data-quote="greybeard" data-source="post: 1760362" data-attributes="member: 18945"><p>If you will cut them just as the leaves start to turn, and IMMEDIATLY spray 50/50 mix Remedy-diesel on each stump, you won't have much if any regrowth. TIMING is important. Every fall, the tree's vascular system starts pushing nutrients out of the leaves, upper limbs and leaf stems back down into the trunk, where gravity assists moving it down to be stored as sugars in the roots to keep the tree alive during the dormant winter. This is why the leaves change color. They are no longer doing the photosynthesis/chlorophyll thing. The active vascular system of honey locusts, chinese tallow and sweetgum is located predominantly in the outer couple of inches of the trunk, just inside the inner bark. Center of the trunk/stump is old growth and very little if any vascular activity takes place there. </p><p></p><p>When I say timing is important, I mean you need to saw them just as the leaves first start changing colors AND spray the stumps as soon after sawing as possible. Many people cut a bunch down, then go back and start spraying. Too much time elapses between the first ones cut and spraying, as the sap builds up on top of the stump, clogs the vascular pores and the herbicide doesn't get drawn down into the root system. In Texas, the sun also causes the vascular pores on top of the stump to shrink up closed pretty quick. Stump needs treated within no more than 30 minutes after cutting.</p><p></p><p>It doesn't take much herbicide mixture per stump. I usually hung one of these sprayers off my belt on a short strap while using the chainsaw and it would treat about 20 stumps. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]20038[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>TAMU Brushbusters says you can do cut stump treatment any time of year but it works best as I described above.</p><p>Same goes for frilling or slash and squirt treatment.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greybeard, post: 1760362, member: 18945"] If you will cut them just as the leaves start to turn, and IMMEDIATLY spray 50/50 mix Remedy-diesel on each stump, you won't have much if any regrowth. TIMING is important. Every fall, the tree's vascular system starts pushing nutrients out of the leaves, upper limbs and leaf stems back down into the trunk, where gravity assists moving it down to be stored as sugars in the roots to keep the tree alive during the dormant winter. This is why the leaves change color. They are no longer doing the photosynthesis/chlorophyll thing. The active vascular system of honey locusts, chinese tallow and sweetgum is located predominantly in the outer couple of inches of the trunk, just inside the inner bark. Center of the trunk/stump is old growth and very little if any vascular activity takes place there. When I say timing is important, I mean you need to saw them just as the leaves first start changing colors AND spray the stumps as soon after sawing as possible. Many people cut a bunch down, then go back and start spraying. Too much time elapses between the first ones cut and spraying, as the sap builds up on top of the stump, clogs the vascular pores and the herbicide doesn't get drawn down into the root system. In Texas, the sun also causes the vascular pores on top of the stump to shrink up closed pretty quick. Stump needs treated within no more than 30 minutes after cutting. It doesn't take much herbicide mixture per stump. I usually hung one of these sprayers off my belt on a short strap while using the chainsaw and it would treat about 20 stumps. [ATTACH type="full"]20038[/ATTACH] TAMU Brushbusters says you can do cut stump treatment any time of year but it works best as I described above. Same goes for frilling or slash and squirt treatment. [/QUOTE]
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