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Homemade Creosote
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<blockquote data-quote="jimships" data-source="post: 1291099" data-attributes="member: 24532"><p>Here are two solutions worth looking at as both work well. </p><p></p><p>Option 1: Copper Sulfate is as good as it gets without using exotics. Best way to buy the CS is to buy it in bulk as granules or liquid. Or go to home depot and buy septic root killer in plumbing section, add some water to make a strong aquas solution that can be used as a dip, painted on or injected. It makes a good "dip" for poles, but the best way is to get the stuff into the wood, not just laying on top of the wood. </p><p></p><p>It paints like water so be prepared to be turned green. Old clothes, rubber gloves, etc.</p><p></p><p>For injection, (actually a fluid transfer using pressure differential), make a simple vacuum chamber out of a piece of 10" pipe with one end capped and the other threaded, or both threaded. Drill one end, the top end and thread in a 1/2" M.P.-1/2" F. flare fitting to a put a threaded vacuum hose on it you can have made up with a flare, swivel and reducer to 1/4". 1/2" works fine as it is easy to work with and allows no restrictions back to the pump where it should be reduced to pump inlet size/ If you want to be fancy, add a 2" ball valve drain to the vacuum pipe chamber at the bottom. You need a larger drain line to handle debris coming off the poles. </p><p></p><p>Load the pole in the pipe, add solution to cover and pull a vacuum on it for a few minutes with the poles in solution. (if you could see inside you would see a million tiny bubbles come out of the wood. Once the bubbles stop, about 5 minutes, then release the vacuum and let it sit at atmospheric pressure for about 10 minutes. You need to know that deep penetration into the wood is only possible under a differential pressure (high pressure or vacuum). Vacuum is far easier and simple to do than pressure, safer too. A 110 VAC vacuum pump from harbor freight works fine. </p><p></p><p>You can also do this with a vacuum bag technique, and I have done it, but it takes some skill to set it up, but you can do large batches in minutes. We used a 4 x 10 tank with a strong sealing lid and plastic inside. Worked well. </p><p></p><p>Option 2: If you let them dry out after dipping and are really concerned about rot, I use a paint called "coal tar epoxy." It fairly cheap stuff, made for the bottom of boats and ships and is easy to come by. Sherwin Williams is a good source, but they may need to order it in. It is a two part paint so get your poles all laid out in mass on 2x4's and be ready to roll the stuff on while rolling the poles to paint all surfaces. Coat the bottoms or the whole pole. Best stuff known to man for making a barrier from water, rain and insects. Mix in small batches and use only what you need at one time. Best to buy it in 5 gallon buckets. It comes with a catalyst, but store it in a frig to stay good for years.</p><p></p><p>CTE gets fairly hard and does not transfer easily once cured which takes about 2 hours or over night. Hotter the better in the barn and it can be sprayed by a 2 gallon spray rig. </p><p></p><p>You can do option 2 only and it will work for about 8 years. Doing both is about forever. </p><p></p><p>Good Luck</p><p></p><p>Jim</p><p> </p><p>Have fun.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jimships, post: 1291099, member: 24532"] Here are two solutions worth looking at as both work well. Option 1: Copper Sulfate is as good as it gets without using exotics. Best way to buy the CS is to buy it in bulk as granules or liquid. Or go to home depot and buy septic root killer in plumbing section, add some water to make a strong aquas solution that can be used as a dip, painted on or injected. It makes a good "dip" for poles, but the best way is to get the stuff into the wood, not just laying on top of the wood. It paints like water so be prepared to be turned green. Old clothes, rubber gloves, etc. For injection, (actually a fluid transfer using pressure differential), make a simple vacuum chamber out of a piece of 10" pipe with one end capped and the other threaded, or both threaded. Drill one end, the top end and thread in a 1/2" M.P.-1/2" F. flare fitting to a put a threaded vacuum hose on it you can have made up with a flare, swivel and reducer to 1/4". 1/2" works fine as it is easy to work with and allows no restrictions back to the pump where it should be reduced to pump inlet size/ If you want to be fancy, add a 2" ball valve drain to the vacuum pipe chamber at the bottom. You need a larger drain line to handle debris coming off the poles. Load the pole in the pipe, add solution to cover and pull a vacuum on it for a few minutes with the poles in solution. (if you could see inside you would see a million tiny bubbles come out of the wood. Once the bubbles stop, about 5 minutes, then release the vacuum and let it sit at atmospheric pressure for about 10 minutes. You need to know that deep penetration into the wood is only possible under a differential pressure (high pressure or vacuum). Vacuum is far easier and simple to do than pressure, safer too. A 110 VAC vacuum pump from harbor freight works fine. You can also do this with a vacuum bag technique, and I have done it, but it takes some skill to set it up, but you can do large batches in minutes. We used a 4 x 10 tank with a strong sealing lid and plastic inside. Worked well. Option 2: If you let them dry out after dipping and are really concerned about rot, I use a paint called "coal tar epoxy." It fairly cheap stuff, made for the bottom of boats and ships and is easy to come by. Sherwin Williams is a good source, but they may need to order it in. It is a two part paint so get your poles all laid out in mass on 2x4's and be ready to roll the stuff on while rolling the poles to paint all surfaces. Coat the bottoms or the whole pole. Best stuff known to man for making a barrier from water, rain and insects. Mix in small batches and use only what you need at one time. Best to buy it in 5 gallon buckets. It comes with a catalyst, but store it in a frig to stay good for years. CTE gets fairly hard and does not transfer easily once cured which takes about 2 hours or over night. Hotter the better in the barn and it can be sprayed by a 2 gallon spray rig. You can do option 2 only and it will work for about 8 years. Doing both is about forever. Good Luck Jim Have fun. [/QUOTE]
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