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<blockquote data-quote="Lucky_P" data-source="post: 1690632" data-attributes="member: 12607"><p>Yes. I've not bought a grafted fruit or nut tree or rootstock for nearly 25 years. Grow my own rootstocks, and mostly trade scionwood with other growers to get varieties I want, though I would buy scionwood if I needed to.</p><p>Apples... when we first started out, I was buying grafted varieties from several different nurseries; some apple rootstocks perform better on some sites than others, some sucker more than others. M26, a semi-dwarf has worked out to be the best apple rootstock for my site... 20 yr old trees are only 8-10 ft tall, bear well, and I've not had to stake or trellis them... and it suckers pretty vigorously... it's easy just to pull out a few suckers and pot them up or plant them in a desired location, then graft them over to desired cultivar.</p><p></p><p>Pears go on any of the bazillion volunteer callery pear seedlings that pop up all over the place, courtesy of birds pooping them out. At one time, I was sticking an 8-10" insterstem of OHxF 513 between callery and fruiting variety, but after 15-20 years, I can't tell that it did anything to limit size or shorten time to fruiting, so I just graft straight to callery anymore.</p><p>Plums... I've abandoned all but the native Chickasaw plums, and a few named Chickasaw selections - which graft well onto suckers from the Chickasaw thickets. Peaches & other stonefruits... I don't bother with them anymore...they weren't worth the space they took up, and if someone in the family wants a peach or nectarine, they can just go buy some when the Peach Truck comes around. </p><p></p><p>Persimmons go on native persimmon seedlings. Pawpaws on pawpaw seedlings</p><p>Mulberry selections grafted onto whatever seedling mulberries I find popping up around the yard/orchard... dig 'em up and pot them up.</p><p>Pecans & hickories go on seedlings of 'Major' pecan, though a very few shagbark hickory selections appear not to 'like' pecan understock, so they perform best grafted onto shellbark or shagbark seedlings.</p><p>Walnuts(Black, butternut, heartnut, and in the past, Carpathian) go on black walnut seedlings</p><p>Oaks... white oak group selections go best on bur oak seedlings, but you can graft onto pretty much any other member of the white oaks . Red/black oaks are trickier... there are some peroxidase enzyme incompatibilities that lead to delayed graft failure. Q.falcata(Southern red oak) and Q.rubra(Northern red oak) have worked best for me as understocks for red/black oak selections.</p><p></p><p>Berries... I buy blackberry, raspberry, gooseberry plants from nurseries specializing in them, like Simmons Berry Farm, Pense Nursery, Nourse Nursery. Good, virus-free stock, and the latest selections. Blueberries... Simmons and Dan Finch have been my go-to, but got a few nice ones from Pense & Nourse this spring; they're not all that hard to root from cuttings, but for the price, I can't hardly beat a 2-3 yr old plant from those nurseries that are really geared up to grow them.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lucky_P, post: 1690632, member: 12607"] Yes. I've not bought a grafted fruit or nut tree or rootstock for nearly 25 years. Grow my own rootstocks, and mostly trade scionwood with other growers to get varieties I want, though I would buy scionwood if I needed to. Apples... when we first started out, I was buying grafted varieties from several different nurseries; some apple rootstocks perform better on some sites than others, some sucker more than others. M26, a semi-dwarf has worked out to be the best apple rootstock for my site... 20 yr old trees are only 8-10 ft tall, bear well, and I've not had to stake or trellis them... and it suckers pretty vigorously... it's easy just to pull out a few suckers and pot them up or plant them in a desired location, then graft them over to desired cultivar. Pears go on any of the bazillion volunteer callery pear seedlings that pop up all over the place, courtesy of birds pooping them out. At one time, I was sticking an 8-10" insterstem of OHxF 513 between callery and fruiting variety, but after 15-20 years, I can't tell that it did anything to limit size or shorten time to fruiting, so I just graft straight to callery anymore. Plums... I've abandoned all but the native Chickasaw plums, and a few named Chickasaw selections - which graft well onto suckers from the Chickasaw thickets. Peaches & other stonefruits... I don't bother with them anymore...they weren't worth the space they took up, and if someone in the family wants a peach or nectarine, they can just go buy some when the Peach Truck comes around. Persimmons go on native persimmon seedlings. Pawpaws on pawpaw seedlings Mulberry selections grafted onto whatever seedling mulberries I find popping up around the yard/orchard... dig 'em up and pot them up. Pecans & hickories go on seedlings of 'Major' pecan, though a very few shagbark hickory selections appear not to 'like' pecan understock, so they perform best grafted onto shellbark or shagbark seedlings. Walnuts(Black, butternut, heartnut, and in the past, Carpathian) go on black walnut seedlings Oaks... white oak group selections go best on bur oak seedlings, but you can graft onto pretty much any other member of the white oaks . Red/black oaks are trickier... there are some peroxidase enzyme incompatibilities that lead to delayed graft failure. Q.falcata(Southern red oak) and Q.rubra(Northern red oak) have worked best for me as understocks for red/black oak selections. Berries... I buy blackberry, raspberry, gooseberry plants from nurseries specializing in them, like Simmons Berry Farm, Pense Nursery, Nourse Nursery. Good, virus-free stock, and the latest selections. Blueberries... Simmons and Dan Finch have been my go-to, but got a few nice ones from Pense & Nourse this spring; they're not all that hard to root from cuttings, but for the price, I can't hardly beat a 2-3 yr old plant from those nurseries that are really geared up to grow them. [/QUOTE]
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