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Fence charger grounding
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<blockquote data-quote="SRBeef" data-source="post: 672106" data-attributes="member: 7509"><p>I think there are all sorts of potential problems trying to ground your fence to building supports set in concrete. First of all the grounds need to be in contact with MOIST soil. Your posts are in concrete at least partially inside the building or at least under eaves....lots of reasons for a marginal ground, not to mention the possible feedback through the building.</p><p></p><p>I also have one charger inside a shed with a lead wire out to the fence passing by about 10 ft outside the building. What I did was to run a second good quality (Gallagher double insulated) 12 gage underground wire (one hot, one ground) in the trench out to the fence and then put FOUR 8 ft galvanized ground rods in a line directly under the fence(drove them in at a bit of an angle with a T-post hand driver then a sledge) halfway between posts which put them about 12 ft apart leaving only about 2 or 3" exposed, take a hoe and make a shallow trench under the fence and connecting the four ground rods, run the 12 gage insulated underground wire in this trench and continuously through four brass grounding clamps out to the end ground rod (40 or 50 ft).</p><p></p><p>Strip the insulation for about 4 " off of the wire at each rod slip the clamp over the rod and tighten the hex screw without cutting the wire...</p><p></p><p>This way you have enough rods deep enough to be in moist soil and a continuous wire running from the outermost ground rod all the way into the charger in your building.</p><p></p><p>You will be amazed at how well this works, even miles away, and you won't be messing with it all the time. As Bez suggests, don't forget the lightning choke and drive a SEPARATE ground rod 10 or 12 ft the other direction under the fence for the SEPARATE choke ground, away from your main ground system.</p><p></p><p>This method also leaves all ground rods under the fence where folks are not tripping on them, hitting them with the mower or breaking the buried ground wire. You can still get weeds with a weed wacker.</p><p></p><p>I think it's worth doing right the first time. jmho.</p><p></p><p>Jim</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SRBeef, post: 672106, member: 7509"] I think there are all sorts of potential problems trying to ground your fence to building supports set in concrete. First of all the grounds need to be in contact with MOIST soil. Your posts are in concrete at least partially inside the building or at least under eaves....lots of reasons for a marginal ground, not to mention the possible feedback through the building. I also have one charger inside a shed with a lead wire out to the fence passing by about 10 ft outside the building. What I did was to run a second good quality (Gallagher double insulated) 12 gage underground wire (one hot, one ground) in the trench out to the fence and then put FOUR 8 ft galvanized ground rods in a line directly under the fence(drove them in at a bit of an angle with a T-post hand driver then a sledge) halfway between posts which put them about 12 ft apart leaving only about 2 or 3" exposed, take a hoe and make a shallow trench under the fence and connecting the four ground rods, run the 12 gage insulated underground wire in this trench and continuously through four brass grounding clamps out to the end ground rod (40 or 50 ft). Strip the insulation for about 4 " off of the wire at each rod slip the clamp over the rod and tighten the hex screw without cutting the wire... This way you have enough rods deep enough to be in moist soil and a continuous wire running from the outermost ground rod all the way into the charger in your building. You will be amazed at how well this works, even miles away, and you won't be messing with it all the time. As Bez suggests, don't forget the lightning choke and drive a SEPARATE ground rod 10 or 12 ft the other direction under the fence for the SEPARATE choke ground, away from your main ground system. This method also leaves all ground rods under the fence where folks are not tripping on them, hitting them with the mower or breaking the buried ground wire. You can still get weeds with a weed wacker. I think it's worth doing right the first time. jmho. Jim [/QUOTE]
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