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Electric fence gate options??
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<blockquote data-quote="regolith" data-source="post: 1335599" data-attributes="member: 9267"><p>I use a home-made wire hook... but they last a long time and work well. Use thick soft wire and wind it round a shaft twice (I use my post-hole rammer handle) to make the loop, tuck the (short) loose end back over the wire in front of the loop, cut the wire just long enough to make a little loop and tie it off - the pin of a pin-lock insulator goes through the little loop, the gate handle hooks into the double loop.</p><p>Gates are made of poly-tape but as mentioned before, if you expect them to carry the electricity on to the next fence they will burn out frequently. Handles are made of the same thick soft wire, tied off in a loop at one end, cut to length then a piece of 1/2" alkathene pipe pushed right down onto the loop and the remaining wire at the other end bent into a handle shape.</p><p></p><p>If making the gates with wire a handle with a spring really helps getting them open and shut - polywire, polytape and bungy cord all has enough stretch of its own that it doesn't need a extra spring. And with the poly-whatever gates I like to make a wire loop on the hot wire to hang them on - keep them both hot and off the ground while open, then you don't come back to find the cattle have chewed them up.</p><p></p><p>Gate hooks mounted on insulators can be bought too - they're very expensive, considering how fast they can be made out of wire but my favourite on this farm is one I found in the shed that has an insulator and metal plate with three holes in it - all my tape gates off the lane are in pairs and every other pair on the farm is hooked into a single hole. It takes an intelligent farm visitor to open a gate for you, most don't realise you have to pull the other handle towards you to open the first.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="regolith, post: 1335599, member: 9267"] I use a home-made wire hook... but they last a long time and work well. Use thick soft wire and wind it round a shaft twice (I use my post-hole rammer handle) to make the loop, tuck the (short) loose end back over the wire in front of the loop, cut the wire just long enough to make a little loop and tie it off - the pin of a pin-lock insulator goes through the little loop, the gate handle hooks into the double loop. Gates are made of poly-tape but as mentioned before, if you expect them to carry the electricity on to the next fence they will burn out frequently. Handles are made of the same thick soft wire, tied off in a loop at one end, cut to length then a piece of 1/2" alkathene pipe pushed right down onto the loop and the remaining wire at the other end bent into a handle shape. If making the gates with wire a handle with a spring really helps getting them open and shut - polywire, polytape and bungy cord all has enough stretch of its own that it doesn't need a extra spring. And with the poly-whatever gates I like to make a wire loop on the hot wire to hang them on - keep them both hot and off the ground while open, then you don't come back to find the cattle have chewed them up. Gate hooks mounted on insulators can be bought too - they're very expensive, considering how fast they can be made out of wire but my favourite on this farm is one I found in the shed that has an insulator and metal plate with three holes in it - all my tape gates off the lane are in pairs and every other pair on the farm is hooked into a single hole. It takes an intelligent farm visitor to open a gate for you, most don't realise you have to pull the other handle towards you to open the first. [/QUOTE]
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