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Distributor issues...
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<blockquote data-quote="greybeard" data-source="post: 1222528" data-attributes="member: 18945"><p>I don't know what type of drive your distributor has on it--a gear I suspect, and if it is the usual bevel gear on the end of the dist shaft, the mating with the cam gear has a tendency to push UP on the dist shaft. Normally taken care of by thrust washer and shim inside the lower part of the distributor. </p><p>You might check with this vendor:</p><p><a href="http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/Distributor-Massey-Ferguson-35-50-135-20-p/203573.htm" target="_blank">http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/Distrib ... 203573.htm</a></p><p>He lists the complete distributor for $200 plus a refundable core charge of $100 if this is the correct distributor for you year model.</p><p></p><p></p><p><em><strong> Am I correct in marking the position the rotor is pointing on the old distributor and putting the new one in with the rotor in the same position and then making minor adjustments by turning the distributor???</strong></em></p><p>It is also helpful if not neccessary to note exactly where the body or housing of the distributor is located before you remove it. I usually take a sharp metal tool (scribe) and make a mark on the housing and the engine casting. Then make sure I do not rotate the crankshaft after that until the new dist is installed. When you drop the distributor in, you will have to position the rotor just a few degrees before where you want it to point. This is because the gear teeth are at an angle and dropping it in will turn the shaft a little bit in the direction of normal rotation and if you don't do this, you will find the rotor is past where it needs to be once the distributor is fully seated in it's bore. </p><p>So, you will mark both your distributor body in relation to it's hole and the rotor in relation to where it was pointing when you pull the dist out. </p><p>Of course, you can also rotate the engine to the correct firing point for the cylinder that your distributor is timed on--presumably at TDC of Cylinder #1. There may or may not be, a mark designating this timing point on the flywheel or crankshaft pulley. On some MF's there was a cover or plug on the flywheel housing that you removed, push a small screwdriver into the hole in the casting till it barely contacts the flywheel. There is a hole in the flywheel that is the timing point.Have someone rotate the crankshaft by hand until you feel the screwdriver go further in. Your engine is now at the timing point, but you need to find out if it is at tdc on the compression stroke or at TDC on the exhaust stroke. To find this out, you would remove the valve cover and see if both rocker arms for the #1 cyl are up. If so, you are on compression stroke. If the exhaust valve rocker arm is down you are on the exhaust stroke. Putting the distributor in with the engine cylinder being on the exhaust stroke means you may be timed as much as 180 degrees out. </p><p>If you mark everything tho, before you pull the distributor, and re-install the new one exactly like the old one came out, you won't need to find TDC of #1. You can also take a picture of the old dist before you remove it to help figure out how to position the new on in the bore.</p><p></p><p>Either way, you still need to mark the body of the distributor AND the area right next to it before removing the distributor.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greybeard, post: 1222528, member: 18945"] I don't know what type of drive your distributor has on it--a gear I suspect, and if it is the usual bevel gear on the end of the dist shaft, the mating with the cam gear has a tendency to push UP on the dist shaft. Normally taken care of by thrust washer and shim inside the lower part of the distributor. You might check with this vendor: [url=http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/Distributor-Massey-Ferguson-35-50-135-20-p/203573.htm]http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/Distrib ... 203573.htm[/url] He lists the complete distributor for $200 plus a refundable core charge of $100 if this is the correct distributor for you year model. [i][b] Am I correct in marking the position the rotor is pointing on the old distributor and putting the new one in with the rotor in the same position and then making minor adjustments by turning the distributor???[/b][/i][b][/b] It is also helpful if not neccessary to note exactly where the body or housing of the distributor is located before you remove it. I usually take a sharp metal tool (scribe) and make a mark on the housing and the engine casting. Then make sure I do not rotate the crankshaft after that until the new dist is installed. When you drop the distributor in, you will have to position the rotor just a few degrees before where you want it to point. This is because the gear teeth are at an angle and dropping it in will turn the shaft a little bit in the direction of normal rotation and if you don't do this, you will find the rotor is past where it needs to be once the distributor is fully seated in it's bore. So, you will mark both your distributor body in relation to it's hole and the rotor in relation to where it was pointing when you pull the dist out. Of course, you can also rotate the engine to the correct firing point for the cylinder that your distributor is timed on--presumably at TDC of Cylinder #1. There may or may not be, a mark designating this timing point on the flywheel or crankshaft pulley. On some MF's there was a cover or plug on the flywheel housing that you removed, push a small screwdriver into the hole in the casting till it barely contacts the flywheel. There is a hole in the flywheel that is the timing point.Have someone rotate the crankshaft by hand until you feel the screwdriver go further in. Your engine is now at the timing point, but you need to find out if it is at tdc on the compression stroke or at TDC on the exhaust stroke. To find this out, you would remove the valve cover and see if both rocker arms for the #1 cyl are up. If so, you are on compression stroke. If the exhaust valve rocker arm is down you are on the exhaust stroke. Putting the distributor in with the engine cylinder being on the exhaust stroke means you may be timed as much as 180 degrees out. If you mark everything tho, before you pull the distributor, and re-install the new one exactly like the old one came out, you won't need to find TDC of #1. You can also take a picture of the old dist before you remove it to help figure out how to position the new on in the bore. Either way, you still need to mark the body of the distributor AND the area right next to it before removing the distributor. [/QUOTE]
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