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Kencove makes a 4 tier that mounts on a 3pt.

Best solution I've found...

Crimp sleeves are 100% strength of wire Figure 8 Knot is 70% strength Gripples are 60-70% strength A "western union" or Just butting the stays up against each other and wrapping on each side is 48% I know which one I'm using.

We won't work in solid rock. Thats makes it easy. lol

. Good to hear it works for you. We've tried to do that with a 4inch bit on the belltec then pound through it with the Shaver, never had much luck. We mainly use the rock spike now. Have found it much more effective.

Do you have any luck drilling a pilot hole with the Beltec and then pounding it?

Check out Kencove Farm Fence. I use the wraparound insulators as well as the fin tubes. Flat backs or heavy wall tubes are a little more heavy duty if that's a concern for you. I wouldn't bother with donuts, never had a problem with wraparounds and they are much easier and quicker to use.

Thank you all.

Very good point, something I forgot to mention. If the fence has pressure, it needs a "strong" (pipe or wood) line post every so often.

Some alternatives to crimp sleeves I have been experimenting with. Knot on top is a figure 8, speed knot on the bottom. Not as strong as crimp sleeves, I believe they are around 70-80% strength from what I've researched. But definitely cheaper than crimps and gripples. Pretty easy to learn, If I...

I use the nicopress crimpers from Kencove. They are spendy ($200), but hold up very well for daily contractor use. I've bought ones from the farm store, like the Dare brand, but they were absolute junk. Buy a nicopress and you can pass it down to the next generation.

I use the Kiwi Fence 12.5ga LONG crimp sleeves from Kencove. Rated for 1500lb hold. Make sure to get the long ones, not the shorties.

Pipe or wood line posts are really only required at a change in direction or elevation. T-posts would be sufficient for everything else. I've built a 1/4 mile of fence with nothing but t-posts in line. 2' deep is sufficient for line posts, but I prefer 3'. Ground is soft here.

The big difference is breaking strength. You can get high tensile tighter, and it will stay tight. Low carbon wire is prone to sagging if not properly pre-tensioned. It should initially be over tensioned, and then backed off, to prevent sagging in the future. I'm not an expert, but I would say...

Gripples are the weakest join you can use, knots are second. Crimp sleeves are near 100% strength of the wire when used properly. In 30 years crimps will still be holding a fence together, Gripples, I don't know about. There's a reason they aren't used in New Zealand...

You'll find that it stretches easier and tighter than traditional barb. I wouldn't bother double wrapping, just strip the barbs and tie it off good.

I find it hard to use an H-beam driver having used the Kinghitter. It is so much easier on the operater, hits harder, and is much easier to get posts level. The independent post cap controlling the post is genius, I don't know why American manufacturers haven't caught on to this. Plus you get...

Winter fencin' and a real post driver ;-) And yes it does work. :cboy: https://imgur.com/LDTnxAl https://imgur.com/8MMqco3 https://imgur.com/vKBumyo

Just use the loader on your tractor. Problem solved. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1tbTgG5qKU

Mine is heavy enough I don't want to use it.