Where to Keep Tractor

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Some cash prices, cabbed tractors... Kioti 7320, $47k, NH WorkMaster 75, $55k, USED WorkMaster 105, $59k (new, $67k), PowerStar 110, $80k, Kioti HX115, $81k. While I was out looking, the PowerStar 110 I was looking at sold for $2k more than I was quoted due to delivery date of that machine vs another at the dealer's other lot that has a different delivery date. The units coming in/future delivery are over $100k, now.

Sounds like there's some variability in price depending upon delivery date, and fluctuations are part of the game. A 75hp tractor will work for most things on my property but I'd still have to have someone come do heavy work. This is intended as one-time buy. I'm 50 and plan on using a tractor for 20-30 years. I don't want to buy something that doesn't meet every foreseeable need now (including custom hay work for others), then have to trade up and pay a higher price 10 years from now for the same tractor capability I can buy this year, for less. Especially true given that I don't want ANY debt when I'm 60. Life insurance gets too expensive and I don't want to risk my wife being saddled with any debt when my expiration date comes.
Where are you? (If you put it on your profile we'd already know)

MF 4700 Series Utility Tractors | 75-100 HP

MF 4700 Series Utility Tractors | 75-100 HP


0% for up to 60 months + $1,825 finance bonus


Listed at 41/58K depending on options.

And it's more tractor than I would need to hay, but it's the first one I looked up.
 
And also, not that I'm a tractor expert, but if he's running square bales then he doesn't have to split the difference so harshly. Most square balers iirc operate somewhere between the 60s and 70s for HP (I haven't cut and baled squares since I was younger and single and every pretty girl in the county owned a horse) and there's plenty of tractors of maybe not new but recent enough year model with good parts availability that wouldn't cost 80k at all. If all he's doing is baling squares for sheep then hell, I'd go as cheap as I could without buying something ancient (we have a 70s MF, buying parts isn't always an option so we traded some coon dogs for a spare similar year model for a parts tractor), and then just build a damn basic covered top structure to store it in. If you're anything of a carpenter, it ain't overly expensive or challenging to whip one up. You can even rig walls or half walls fairly cheap.

As far as the worries of lemons and maintenance @mml373, there hasn't been a tractor made yet that won't break, and you will not avoid parts failure. You just won't. You can buy new and the only difference is that you will pay for parts while still paying off a very expensive tractor. I will never tell a body what to do with their own stuff, but you have to sit down and ask yourself if the juice is worth the squeeze. You've expressed in past posts a desire to grow your operation, and the pencil is sharpest where money is saved vs where it is made, and unless you're running a good passel of sheep, I'd try this opportunity to save it. The other reality is that seeing as how you will have to work on any tractor you buy anyway, might as well just get ready for practice.
Thank you, 50/50. I agree. In talking to the dealer today, 60 PTO might be able to get most things done. Then we're looking at other things such as ability to pull large fertilizer bins/spreaders and do some of that kind of heavier work. The cost difference is substantial between a 60hp vs 90hp PTO tractor, but there's also heavier build, different frame type, antilock brakes, ANSI certification, etc. that may be meaningful.
One more time.....where is your area?
Sorry, catching up. Southern Missouri.
 
Thank you, 50/50. I agree. In talking to the dealer today, 60 PTO might be able to get most things done. Then we're looking at other things such as ability to pull large fertilizer bins/spreaders and do some of that kind of heavier work. The cost difference is substantial between a 60hp vs 90hp PTO tractor, but there's also heavier build, different frame type, antilock brakes, ANSI certification, etc. that may be meaningful.

Sorry, catching up. Southern Missouri.
No, most of those secondary and tertiary things aren't very meaningful. Look at the implements you want, figure out the HP needs, and then buy the best tractor you can afford, and by afford I don't mean like a car, I mean afford as in what you produce with it will at worst help you not be in the hole for long with it.
 
Just another option, sorry if its already been mentioned. Have you considered fencing and grazing your hay ground, then buy what hay you need? You can graze a lot later than most people realize if you have the ground for it. It can really cut down on hay usage. I know you still need a tractor, but not nearly as big of one.
 
You can buy a lot of hay for $80,000, and if you buy your hay, you won't have tractor maintenance or the need for a place to store the tractor. You would also save the hours spent planting, fertilizing, cutting, raking, baling and getting the hay in the barn. If you put a pencil to it, you will find it is much cheaper to purchase 250 bales of hay per year then it is to grow and bale it yourself. Unless you are putting up hundreds or thousands of acres of hay, the overhead will take any profit. Why not just let the sheep graze your land, and let someone else do all the work? We buy all our hay and I have never been sorry. If the weather is bad and hay gets put up in poor condition, it is not your problem. You can wait for another cutting or find a different supplier.
 
Thanks, y'all. You have a good point with regard to buying hay and it is one I have considered and perhaps should reconsider.

That said, I'm the only guy with tall grass, anywhere in my area. :) All the "real farmers" have already put up their hay (round bales) and may get a second cutting this season. Beautiful round bales on farms with green grass, now, vs the tall stuff I wade through and trip over daily when moving sheep. <grrrr> So the desire/need(?) to cut my pastures for hay is substantially related to my mobility issues and the challenges associated with rotational grazing of sheep (they move to new grass every 2-4 days). The ticks in this tall grass and trips/falls from it are one reason for wanting a tractor to hay the place. Ticks can be mitigated to some degree but the grass causes a lot of trip-ups (can't pick my feet up, stumble, though physical therapy coming up should help). The stupid (awful!) Premier1 mesh fences I have to move cause a lot of trips, too, and are downright dangerous to me if I fall (7 inch steel spikes sticking out if I have fence on the ground to put up or put away). When my flock of sheep is big enough to justify woven wire cross fence, I'll put that in.

If I put pencil to paper, I'd have never bought a small farm and chosen to become a farmer. Fully disabled, courtesy of the military-required annual flu shot in 2017. Life is short and sweet. Doing it for the experience I'd always wanted, and to raise my kids so they might consider taking what I'm building and carrying it forward.

That PowerStar 110 would be everything they'd ever need in another 20 years when they take what I've built and build it bigger... (haha)
 
@mml373 with everyone wanting to know your location, and I see you put it in the profile... but if you go to your name upper right, click on and go to account details and down to location, it will show up under your avatar on the left everytime you post.
Not that having it elsewhere showing up is bad... just trying to help.
 
Buy used. Get on Craigslist, go to Sikeston, look around, you can find something for a lot less than 80k. Put up a big double carport for 5k to store it and your pickup. You can have it all.
 
If it has a cab it has a shelter already. Lol.

In regards to the hay thing. There is some wisdom in what some have been saying but it doesn't always work that way everywhere. Sometimes and some places you can't find good hay for a reasonable price to be delivered. Most of the stuff around here is junk.

I'm in a situation where I do may hayfields on shares with a neighbor. It is working ok so far but he is now the third person that I have done this with because of issues with the other two. This guy is 70 and I don't know how long he will keep it up. When he is done I will have to make a decision to 'get in or get out' when it comes to this hay thing.

A share system is a sweet spot in a lot of cases although not a perfect system. You could try that but I did read you were having trouble getting someone to cut your hay so I'm not sure of your situation regarding that option.
 
In about 2000, car manufacturers started coating their wires with a soy product, thereby inviting the vermin to chew on wires. There have been some class-action lawsuits, but I don't think any resulted in liability on the part of the manufacturers. They make some products with capsaicin (hot pepper) such as coated electrical tape and sprays.
Yes, the insulation on wiring has protein in in it. Last year I spent $6,000 on my Mercedes roadster and $2,000 on my tractor repairing rodent damage so I've cone some research. As for what attracts rodents it's not garbage or trees, it's any food source. If you have livestock you have feed in some manner stored. Hello, ever seen a rat hole in a feed sack. Same as for your pasture. Ever see a hawk sitting on a fence post or light pole? Guess what he's hunting? Rats. They're in your pasture eating the grain out of manure for one thing. You won't kill all of the rats but you can control them. Lots and lots of bagged poison and small traps baited with snickers bars and then spray equipment and such with Tomcat rodent spray monthly. I've trapped only one rat since I started this routine and cleared them out.
 
We bought our MF used from the dealer. Had 4 years remaining of a 5 year factory warranty. Thank the man upstairs it was there when I needed it.
Also many dealers will take offers on used machines, like a car lot. Worked for us, saved $5k.
 
Is renting a tractor an option in your location? That would also solve storage and maintenance problems. If I had your problem of too much grass for the animals foraging, I would consider bringing in some stocker calves to harvest, either by leasing to someone on a short term basis, or buying calves and reselling them when the grass is down to a reasonable amount. It sounds like you have movable electric woven fence for containment, so they would need to be trained to respect that, but the good thing is trained cattle on sufficient forage can be contained with just a single hot wire. Much easier to move.

I get the impression from your posts that a tractor is not so much a necessity as it is a desire. We all find ourselves rationalizing purchases from time to time. If you really want a tractor, and you can afford it, just go for it. What the heck. Some people around here pay that much for toys like ATV's and enclosed trailers, just so they can haul them to the dunes a few times a year. Get yourself a big tractor if you want it, and cover it up with a tarp if you think it needs protection until you are ready to build a shed. Of course now you will need a mower and a rake (and or tedder), a hay baler. Probably will want at least a bucket on the front and maybe a back hoe. The list goes on. Better make it a big tarp. ;)
 
Is renting a tractor an option in your location? That would also solve storage and maintenance problems. If I had your problem of too much grass for the animals foraging, I would consider bringing in some stocker calves to harvest, either by leasing to someone on a short term basis, or buying calves and reselling them when the grass is down to a reasonable amount. It sounds like you have movable electric woven fence for containment, so they would need to be trained to respect that, but the good thing is trained cattle on sufficient forage can be contained with just a single hot wire. Much easier to move.

I get the impression from your posts that a tractor is not so much a necessity as it is a desire. We all find ourselves rationalizing purchases from time to time. If you really want a tractor, and you can afford it, just go for it. What the heck. Some people around here pay that much for toys like ATV's and enclosed trailers, just so they can haul them to the dunes a few times a year. Get yourself a big tractor if you want it, and cover it up with a tarp if you think it needs protection until you are ready to build a shed. Of course now you will need a mower and a rake (and or tedder), a hay baler. Probably will want at least a bucket on the front and maybe a back hoe. The list goes on. Better make it a big tarp. ;)
Thank you, and yes...always have to consider want vs need. I need winter stockpile for hay and why would I ever want to buy that when (if) I can hire someone to give me my own weed-free (or at least, MY weeds and nobody else's) hay? I also want to not have to rely on an unreliable hay guy. He's making money haying bigger acres than what I need for winter, so I suspect the minimal acreage I need for stockpile hay is of little interest to him when he can make more money elsewhere. I have a renter's cattle out on everything else outside of my ~6 acre sheep/hay pasture, year round, but starting next year I will not. So the hope is to hay that remaining acreage and sell it until my sheep operation grows to fill most of those acres. A number of folks have remarked I have really good hay here, and I'm trying to keep it that way (haha). But yes, will need to be able to market hay next year since I plan on no longer renting the acres that are not running my sheep.
 
Thank you, and yes...always have to consider want vs need. I need winter stockpile for hay and why would I ever want to buy that when (if) I can hire someone to give me my own weed-free (or at least, MY weeds and nobody else's) hay? I also want to not have to rely on an unreliable hay guy. He's making money haying bigger acres than what I need for winter, so I suspect the minimal acreage I need for stockpile hay is of little interest to him when he can make more money elsewhere. I have a renter's cattle out on everything else outside of my ~6 acre sheep/hay pasture, year round, but starting next year I will not. So the hope is to hay that remaining acreage and sell it until my sheep operation grows to fill most of those acres. A number of folks have remarked I have really good hay here, and I'm trying to keep it that way (haha). But yes, will need to be able to market hay next year since I plan on no longer renting the acres that are not running my sheep.
80K for a tractor... and you're running your sheep on six acres? How much hay ground do you have? I'd never buy an 80K tractor unless I had a way to pay for it with the hay I can sell. I suspect that would be at least a section of good alfalfa...
 
80K for a tractor... and you're running your sheep on six acres? How much hay ground do you have? I'd never buy an 80K tractor unless I had a way to pay for it with the hay I can sell. I suspect that would be at least a section of good alfalfa...
Yes, that's where I'm coming to. As mentioned before, I'm not afraid of buying something nicer and hanging onto it for 30 years (yes, that is realistic). But yes, a premium tractor, for me right now, is overboard.

That said, I'm leaning toward going with the less-capable Kioti RX7320 or used WorkMaster 105, which appears to have better standard features. The Kioti has the minimum PTO power I'd consider and does not have some standard options the WorkMaster has. It is very thoughtfully designed and has a lot of value in that package, however. I like the buddy seat on the Workmaster and the standard options it has. The Kioti is attractive because it is just a lower priced entry point but by the time I add the options I need (rearview mirror, for example, for starters) it may not be as good a value as it appears. Most importantly, it is literally over a ton lighter than the WorkMaster. So, on balance, I"m leaning toward a used WorkMaster 105 with between 200 and 500 hours on the clock.
 
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My honest opinion as a mechanic who wrenchs on just about anything that exists. Next to nothing you buy new today will be around in 30 years. In 30 years a Ford 5000 tractor from 1966 will still be running, in 30 years a current model anything most likely will not be.

So I wouldn't bank on buying a tractor today and using it still in 2053.
 
Yes, that's where I'm coming to. As mentioned before, I'm not afraid of buying something nicer and hanging onto it for 30 years (yes, that is realistic). But yes, a premium tractor, for me right now, is overboard.

That said, I'm leaning toward going with the less-capable Kioti RX7320 or used WorkMaster 105, which appears to have better standard features. The Kioti has the minimum PTO power I'd consider and does not have some standard options the WorkMaster has. It is very thoughtfully designed and has a lot of value in that package, however. I like the buddy seat on the Workmaster and the standard options it has. The Kioti is attractive because it is just a lower priced entry point but by the time I add the options I need (rearview mirror, for example, for starters) it may not be as good a value as it appears. Most importantly, it is literally over a ton lighter than the WorkMaster. So, on balance, I"m leaning toward a used WorkMaster 105 with between 200 and 500 hours on the clock.
You didn't say how many acres of hay you're going to be cutting.
 

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