Vermeer 505I

[kentuckyguy]

Just wanting to get the general opinion of a Vermeer 505I. I can find lots of info on the super I but not the standard I model.

I have a good reliable 4x4 John Deere baler but found a good deal on the 505I. I would like to pick up a bigger baler and still keep the John Deere around. I would be baling150 5x5's at the most.

I noticed the tensioners were double springs with no air or hydraulics. The baler has electric tie which I know can be troublesome sometimes. Pickup looks to be in good shape.

How tight of a roll will the spring tensioners make? What would a bale from the 505I probably weigh?

Would a kubota M7060 be enough tractor to operate it?

 

[jltrent]

I have a 1989 505I Vermeer that has baled north of 20,000 bales and pulled it some with a M6800 Kubota. I use mostly a 505M now.

The early 505I balers had the square starter roller and would wrap more than the latter round spiral roller, but with dry hay worked fine as they have a shear pin for the roller. THey have 1 1/4" bearings/shafts instead of the 1 1/2" inch. Condition would be everything as with most equipment. If in good shape it will bale hay. The hay is not as tight as the 505M baler, but handles good and a nice bale. My "I" has the hydraulic tie as no experience with the electric tie on those. If you could hook a tractor to it, hear it run and listen for bearing noise, see that shafts turn true, gear wheels/chain wear was not to bad would help, also the gear bos was solid. The top front roller on the chain side look it over good as that bearing I have had to replace a couple times and the metal around it is not to stout. The baler is around 30 years old so belts could be an issue. If you have any questions I know the baler inside and out. With the proper adjustment on the teeth, with good teeth it will start a bale nice and about non-stop baling as you you do is drive with good twine. I wish I was there to look it over.



The 7060 is about the same tractor as the M6800 and for the most part pulls it OK, but up a hill will need to downshift.

 

[kentuckyguy]

Thanks for the info
I wish you were with me to look at it too. I'll be in it less than $3000 so I can afford a few repairs. I know the guy well that has it and he baled 300 rolls with it last year. He upgraded to a net wrap Vermeer.

I just wanted to make sure it would roll a tight uniform roll. I hate those squatty rolls that don't have square edges. Uniform tight bales make hauling, stacking, and getting to the cows without falling apart easier.

 

[jltrent]

Thanks for the info
I wish you were with me to look at it too. I'll be in it less than $3000 so I can afford a few repairs. I know the guy well that has it and he baled 300 rolls with it last year. He upgraded to a net wrap Vermeer.

I just wanted to make sure it would roll a tight uniform roll. I hate those squatty rolls that don't have square edges. Uniform tight bales make hauling, stacking, and getting to the cows without falling apart easier.

The shoulders on the bales are not as tight as the 505M baler, but handle good with 6-10 rounds of twine. Here is a picture from about 15 years ago that I baled with the "I" baler on a 25' trailer. They are a little fuzzed up from handling... If he rolled 300 bales with it last year it should be in fairly good shape. From my experience what caused squatty bales is the hay that had pretty high moister when baled. You can get manuals from Vermeer if needed....

 

[kentuckyguy]

Thanks again. Those bales would be fine. I'm sure the cows wouldn't complain lol

 

[M.Magis]

I've been looking for another baler for several years, and at that price you're about half what they run around here. I'd already have it in the barn for that price.

 

[kentuckyguy]

I'm my area large hp tractors aren't very common. Most guys run Vermeer rebels or 4x5 balers.

5x5's balers don't move nearly as good as 4x4's and 4x5's.

 

[jltrent]

I use to pull the baler with a MF285 81HP tractor. I remember baling oats that were high moisture as it was all the 285 wanted. Backup to one of the bales with a 50hp tractor to move with no front weights and the front of the tractor came off the ground instead of the bales. That baler has baled a lot of hay and very little down time.

Current picture as a 30 year old baler.....baled as high as 1500 bales a year and still has original belts, original tires and original hitch pin that was delivered from Carter and Carter at Johnson City TN.

Check the top roller bearing.......

Check chains/gear wear and also the center were all the chains come together for loseness and wear. Spray penatrating oil on all bearing daily and oil chains daily

 

[kentuckyguy]

That baler still looks new. Thanks for the pics I'll post pics of it if I end up buying it.

 

[mrvictordomino]

Commenting on the electric tie on the Vermeer rollers, I ran a 605 Super J for nineteen years with no issues with the electric tie actuator. Just need to keep the blades sharp that cut the twine when finishing the tieing process

 

[cfpinz]

Commenting on the electric tie on the Vermeer rollers, I ran a 605 Super J for nineteen years with no issues with the electric tie actuator. Just need to keep the blades sharp that cut the twine when finishing the tieing process

We've had a 504I, 504L and a 554XL with electric tie. Only replaced one linear actuator on the 554XL, and the twine arm pivots rusted up on the 504L one time to the point it stopped working. Disassembled, cleaned and lubed the system and all was good to go. Very simple system.

My 604M has electric twine on it, but I've never used it. Netwrap is a game changer.

 

[kentuckyguy]

Well I have the baler home and I'm ordering a few parts to get it tuned up and ready to go.
Quite a few teeth were missing so I ordered a couple dozen so I would have them on hand. Going to replace some chains that are at the end of their life.

I let the baler run for about 10 min at half throttle on the tractor with the PTO engaged. Bearing temps were all under 90 degrees.
I'll try to get some pics up next week.

I've been reading the owners manual and can't find any info ejecting the bale with the PTO on. Our John Deere baler we just decrease the RPM's and eject the bale.

 

[A.J.]

Glad you were able to pick up the baler. It should be a good one for you. I would cut off the pto before ejecting the bale. We always had to cut the pto off on our 504 super I.

 

[jltrent]

Then manual says you can leave the PTO running and eject a bale. As A. J. says I turn the PTO off as it does not fuzz the bale up that way.

The teeth are what helps start a bale so if in good shape better. The three bolts on the pickup helps with starting a bale as adjust back about a half inch will help if the teeth have wear. You can read about this in the maintenance manual.

 

[kentuckyguy]

I planned to check how aggressive the pickup was set. Also plan on checking the pickup teeth to starter roll gap once I replace the teeth. I'm not sure how the guy was baking with it. Had a lot of teeth missing on the pickup.

 

[cfpinz]

On an I series, I'm pretty sure you're supposed to cut the PTO off to eject the bale. Vermeer didn't introduce Drop 'N Go until later models, my old 504L didn't even have it.

 

[jltrent]

On an I series, I'm pretty sure you're supposed to cut the PTO off to eject the bale. Vermeer didn't introduce Drop 'N Go until later models, my old 504L didn't even have it.

Curious myself as I know I read it in the M baler manual you can leave the PTO on to eject. Here is a copy out of the I baler manual and it is not very clear. It says to open the rear gate and the action will cause the bale to eject. The question is does the gate openning action and/or PTO turning action eject the bale. I have did it both ways as usually I forgot to turn the PTO off when I did it that way. If I remembered I aways turned the PTO off. Once the door is open the bale for the most part stops spinning even if the PTO is left on.

 

[cfpinz]

On an I series, I'm pretty sure you're supposed to cut the PTO off to eject the bale. Vermeer didn't introduce Drop 'N Go until later models, my old 504L didn't even have it.

Curious myself as I know I read it in the M baler manual you can leave the PTO on to eject. Here is a copy out of the I baler manual and it is not very clear. It says to open the rear gate and the action will cause the bale to eject. The question is does the gate openning action and/or PTO turning action eject the bale. I have did it both ways as usually I forgot to turn the PTO off when I did it that way. If I remembered I aways turned the PTO off. Once the door is open the bale for the most part stops spinning even if the PTO is left on.

I can't see the pictures because of the fun filters on my VPN. Your M should have Drop 'N Go, if you'll notice the belts will almost stop turning once you open the tailgate - it's related to the hydraulic tension function but can't remember off the top of my head how it works.

On the older balers such as the I the author just purchased, it's a good idea to restart the PTO once the bale has ejected and the door is completely open. This allows the baler to clean the chaff off of and realign the belts as the door is closing. It will also eject the bale if it's too damp to fall out on its own.

 

[kentuckyguy]

I forgot to post pics of the baler but it ended up working great. Rolled 32 rolls with it today. Back at it again tomorrow.

 

[A.J.]

Glad to hear it did good. Nice lookin bale!