fence questions...

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I just see the end of a portable panel.
No wood post.
I'll go first.
Stay-tuff 13448. With barbView attachment 23277View attachment 23277
Left side is all T posts, you'll just have to look closer. Off back to the horse's right rear flank you can see the T posts, if you look closer at that back line of pines you can see a few posts, we may even have some wooden ones on that side.
 
Yeah, I'm really good at teleporting to and from work. Really the only way to travel.
You said when you get off. I forget you probably gotta punch out.
Hers the one I'm working on todayIMG_20221128_145038.jpgIMG_20221128_145642.jpgIMG_20221128_145059.jpg I didn't use it as a example simply because it doesn't fit the conversation of stretching wire. You know if you gonna talk the talk.
 
I have used bailing twine and rope to splice broken wires until I can get back and fix it right. Those twister deals are never allowed on any of my fence. I'd rather the wire be a little loose. Same goes for the vertical deals you run through all the wires. That's a major pet peeve of mine. We took over a new place and I had some one go in and cut every single one out with bolt cutters and add a tpost where they were.
 
I have used bailing twine and rope to splice broken wires until I can get back and fix it right. Those twister deals are never allowed on any of my fence. I'd rather the wire be a little loose. Same goes for the vertical deals you run through all the wires. That's a major pet peeve of mine. We took over a new place and I had some one go in and cut every single one out with bolt cutters and add a tpost where they were.
That's exactly what all that gimmicky stuff is good for. Patching it tonight and coming back tomorrow and stretching and splicing it back right. And you said broken wires not loose wires. That's how it should be when the wire is tight. Braces are good and it's tied off right.
It doesn't just loosen up.lol
And if a wire is loose it doesn't take any longer to pull it tight with a golden rod or chain walker (for the Europeans out there) and put a crimp in. Than to put one of those Jake things in .
 
I'm not gonna lie I've fixed fences with everything from baling twine to make shift brush piles in a pinch. We'll even staple wire to a tree if need be. I've replaced about half of our border fences but the rest were built in the 50's. Gotta do what you can sometimes.
 
We have a fencing project that should have happened last summer, but we were unable to find good treated wood posts. Penta is no longer available in this state and we have not been able to find a suitable replacement. I had the son of a friend tell me he could put in metal corners, so I went and looked at one of his earlier jobs. He used rusty metal pipes and I was not really sold on the idea. I couldn't see how to attach wire and I didn't see a good example of cross bracing. Is there somewhere you can buy posts and the materials for cross bracing like the ones in the photos? Do you need to be a welder to put in a fence like the one shown by callmefence?

I wish I could find someone local to do this job. It will be about 1.5 to 2 miles of fence in somewhat difficult terrain. We put in a road this summer, so you could get to most areas in an ATV. I thought I had a guy lined up. Our last contact was when he sent a text saying he'd be out next week to check things out, but I never heard from him again. That was in June. He quit responding to calls and texts. Not sure what is going on with him. Then I thought I had found another guy. He had his crew driving equipment to fight fires, but thought they might take on the job in the fall. He wanted us to buy and deliver the materials, but I still can't find corner posts. Apparently treated wood is an environmental hazard, and there are no longer businesses making treated posts in Oregon. I am about ready to give up. I have also looked at using t-posts with a brace kit for corners, but I am not convinced that would hold up.
 
Gonna do this in three sections, I'll post some post examples of the posts I cut, like I said, then I'll show you the current project, then I'll fetch up a scattergun for the hogs and walk to other side of the way and show you about how mine would typically look. Before you make fun of me, my first comment was about how much of a making-do jerry-rigging fella I am. I also had fun getting ant-bitten dragging these out of their piles

First up is what I use for hasty corner or heavy support posts. Eight to ten feet at least, oak or another hard wood when I can get it. I brace these with shorter sections and stilts and have also sometimes quickcreted them in.

Second up is an example of what I consider my standard support posts, six to eight feet, I'll use any wood.

Third is my brace posts for gap gates or corner repairs out in the dense woods. Five to eight feet in length, harder woods preferred but I'm lenient.

Fourth is my "stint" pieces that I use between support posts or to stint up sags out in the wooly stuff.

I know you're gonna poke fun at me @callmefence but do remember that I grew up in a place where folks lean poorer and wood is essentially free between the storms and the logging chuckaways and the brush that always needs to be cleared. When you grow up on a shoestring cow-calf, you just kinda grow up making do.
 

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@callmefence

Part two.

This is on a family member's place. He wants to get set up for raising beef. Step one to re-fencing his land has been to cut through all the brush to actually find the boundary fences from this place was a working spread. I got everything you see cleared out couldn't be walked in a month or so ago, I cut every last bit of it with hand tools because I guess I just hate myself. I didn't walk the whole thing for pics, but just clearing out to this corner was about 100 yards long, 5-15 yards thick.

Three generations of wire here, on everything from raw wood posts to railroad ties to trees.

He wants to do a wooden panel fence to replace it, those I can actually make pretty versions of, so I'll be glad to help.
 

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