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Thanks I'm not meaning to be rude but I don't know what that contraption is but it aint no hackamore
 
cross_7":dfliq33c said:
Thanks I'm not meaning to be rude but I don't know what that contraption is but it aint no hackamore


It's a mechanical hackamore... Don't know of any old-fashioned cowboys that would use them.
They work on a squeeze principal.

I rode with them many years ago but no longer. Some horses do work really well in them tho.
 
Must be regional thing a hackamore in my part of the world is mechanical and a bosal is well a bosal.
 
Before I ordered a Myler from a catalog, I would call the Mylers and get it straight from them. They will be able to help you a lot. To actually answer question, me personally I don't like a bosal or hack. If you can get them to flex at the poll with a small diameter snaffle your better off. Every time you change devices, its like starting over. The bit is actually for mules, but a Max Harsha bit will do what you are describing in an afternoon. Bob sells the same bit under his name, or atleast he used to.
 
Bigfoot":1xkiz7u5 said:
Before I ordered a Myler from a catalog, I would call the Mylers and get it straight from them. They will be able to help you a lot. To actually answer question, me personally I don't like a bosal or hack. If you can get them to flex at the poll with a small diameter snaffle your better off. Every time you change devices, its like starting over. The bit is actually for mules, but a Max Harsha bit will do what you are describing in an afternoon. Bob sells the same bit under his name, or atleast he used to.

Thanks Bigfoot
I like a bosal and may come back to it, but right now I think the comfort snaffle would work but I have never used one.
He rides perfect in the bosal but when driving cattle and we have one that tries to turn back, we have to lope over and herd it back he really gets after the cattle and I have to bump him several times to get his attention and get him stopped.
I sent dale myler an e-mail and he recommended a contraption with adjustments on the shank, some type of nose band and etc,
To be honest I am probably looking for a short cut since I just don't have the time to put the miles on him that it would require to get him where I want without going to a bit
I don't think it will take much, just something real mild.
The guy I bought him from rode him in a twisted wire snaffle and I am surprised he didn't ruin him.
 
The bit your describing is the one I'm talking about. It will make him soft fast.
 
Start by tying the reins back to the d rings in your saddle. Not tight at all, just enough he has to flatten his face, and flex at the poll to relieve the pressure. Leave him in the round pen for about 15 to 20 minutes while he experiments with how to adjust his head to avoid pressure. Then get on and go. The more he tips the less you pull. Soon he'll be soft as butter. The lower you snap your reigns the more pressure you exert. Where its snapped where it is in the picture it works like a snaffle. I'm not big on gimmick bits. That thing is pretty fool proof to lighten a horse up. It's not what I reach for first, but it will get them there quick.
 
Does he neck rein? If not, I would start him in a plain snaffle and teach him him to neck rein before going to a curb.

The bit in your picture is a modified gag gimmick bit that I've seen barrel racers use. If your horse responds to a bosal/hackamore, I wouldn't put that on him. It can be harsh.

I have the Myler bit that you showed. The shanks act independently and works well for lifting a horses shoulder, but it can be confusing to a horse that has never experienced a curb chain. My horse did not like it.

The bit that several of our horses work well in is the Classic Equine 6" shank, 1 inch port correction bit. It is not a harsh bit. It works well for our horses that are used to work cattle. They were started in a rope hackamore, then a plain snaffle, then the classic equine bit. The mare that our daughter shows uses it too, and she is a picky horse about bits.

http://www.nrsworld.com/classic/classic-6-stainless-cheek-round-correct-bit-2201

EB00085


I don't really care for mechanical hackamores much. They will get a horse's head up. I prefer a horse to travel with a low or level head.
 
I've got cattle and horses. Horses are my favorite, I can't deny that. Of everybody I know with cattle 95% of us do it the same way. Of everybody I know with horse, all of us do it a different way. I think that's part of what I like about it.
 
He neck reins well but is a little stiff loping circles.
The biggest problem is like I mentioned before is when he gets after cattle and I rein him to stop he doesn't respond and I have to bump him pretty hard a time or two.
If I had the time I feel like I could straighten him out in the bosal so I think a mild bit and some poll pressure will get his attention.
 
$100 is a lot to spend on a bit. You are paying for the name. There are several companies that make bits similar to Myler that are just as nice without the price.

Your horse may like this bit. It is the one that I use with my mare Chippie and my son's mare Foxy. It has a shorter shank than the Myler bit and has the same action. It is a well made bit and I am happy with how the horses work with it. The price is reasonable too. South Texas Tack is a family owned store. I love it.

15986-2.jpg


http://www.southtexastack.com/product-p/15986.htm

Edited to add I think that it is a Francois Gauthier bit. The reining guy.

ETA: I don't mean to give unsolicited advice, but when you stop him, back him a couple of steps, and pause before moving forward. He may be traveling on his forehand while loping making it hard for him to get his hind legs under him to stop. If you have a pen with a board or cattle panel fence, you can fence him at any gait. Work on that at a walk, then jog and finally at a lope. That will help get him on his rear and stop too.
 
It's not that he can't stop, it's when he is after cattle and doesn't want to quit I really have to get his attention back on me
 
I understand. I would still work on Whoa means stop now, not two or three or more steps after I tell you.
Once you get him stopped, back him to get his focus back on what you are telling him to do. He should stop when you tell him to regardless what is on his head or mouth. If he tries to run through the hackamore/bosal, work on him to get his attention and make him back.
What type of hackamore are you using? If it is one similar to this, the bottom should come in contact with his jaw when you pull back.

bosal.jpg
 

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