‘13 Dodge tires?

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fnfarms1

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My '13 Dodge 2500 4x4 needs couple new tires probably by spring. Has factory 17inch wheels and leveling kit. Bought it with 265/70s. I'm sure this will catch some flack but I like my tires to fill the wheel wells, so I'd like bigger. Not looking for anything crazy but what's biggest tire that will fit without rubbing? Same basic truck, My '05 had 295/70/17s without any rub. My truck does work for a living, but isn't drove daily. Family truck, hauls hay, cows, equipment. I've got a Tacoma for daily run around truck.
Guy at tire shop says 285/70/17s (33")biggest I can go. Everything online says 35/12.50" will fit. That's quite a bit of difference. But really not looking to max out here. Anyone running bigger than a 33?
 

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From the picture it looks like you can put 295's on.
 
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If it's 4wd your gonna have to do all 4...

Got to be same height or you'll tear up your transfer case
Yeah it will be all 4. The fronts are pretty good still but if I want bigger ones, it's good time to replace all 4 and just sell the 2 good ones to recoup some cost.
 
Yeah it will be all 4. The fronts are pretty good still but if I want bigger ones, it's good time to replace all 4 and just sell the 2 good ones to recoup some cost.
I see a lot of those trucks with 35's. Pretty sure most have a least a leveling/lift kit installed. The biggest issue is rubbing at the lower corner of the fender. 35's will also most likely be a bit wide for the factory wheels depending in what width ya go with. Most are 12.5" wide

33's should be no real issue
 
I see a lot of those trucks with 35's. Pretty sure most have a least a leveling/lift kit installed.

33's should be no real issue
I guess I'm thinking of like a 285/75. It's about a 34, but I'm afraid to buy them and not fit. Probably buying off eBay because it's a lot cheaper than tire shop. I didn't mention that size before as an option.
 
35s will fit. Think we had 315/?/17 on our last one. I don't mind taller tires that fit the wheel wells but I hate mud grips or aggressive all terrains
 
I would think a 285/70 would make it.

A leveling kit is usually cheap enough if they don't.
Anybody around there do that kind of stuff?
It has a level kit already. Previous owner had it put on, so I don't know how much it lifted the front exactly, but it sits perfect. I hate those that run uphill or the downward factory rake.
35s will fit. Think we had 315/?/17 on our last one. I don't mind taller tires that fit the wheel wells but I hate mud grips or aggressive all terrains
agreed although I like an a aggressive AT as long as they don't hum. I don't like the noisy stuff no matter tread pattern. Also I don't need real wide tires, being diesel wider helps flotation. But my farm is just black dirt, few rocks. so if it's going to sink, little wider tire probably won't stop it. Eventually it will get a spike or arm bed when I can afford it. But I put all my hay out with tractor. Bed will be for bringing hay home and backup for tractor. So it's not really a feed truck.
 
35s will fit. I'm a big fan of of like a 295/70-17. It will look great and be functional. That size has a good weight rating for pulling with out giving up power. I like Nitto Trail Grappler MTs. If you rotate like a you should you can get 50K out of them. They do great pulling, mud, rocks, sand, and on the pavement.

Not a fan of leveling kits unless it's a pavement princess and you really don't gain much on the new trucks.

Screenshot_20221124-201242_Chrome.jpg
 
I ended up with 285 75 17s, 10ply Nexen Roadian ATs. Found them on eBay for 800 for the set, best price I had seen for a tire brand I know and trust. I like it much better.
 

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Thinking it needs full replacement Ranch Hand now and eventually a spear bed. Spear bed I'm going to have to save some Pennie's though
 
New tires feel like the rear end is skating. Several local shops say that is normal a lot of times. 500-1000miles and it should go away. I do think it's getting better 70 was about as fast as I was comfortable going. We drove it about 200miles today, either I'm getting used to it or it's getting better
 
I put a set of ATs on my 2015 Duramax one time that I had simular issues with. They were suppose to be some high mile, 10ply, ATs. They were very sketchy. It was really hard to keep them hooked up. Twice I had them start sliding out from under me in turns. At the time, I could expense my tires for the company I was working for. I had been telling my boss how I didn't them and the issues I was having.

We were leaving some wells and were on a windy county road. My boss was following me and the back end slid on me again. He called me and said to go get them swapped out tomorrow.

Discount Tire refunded them and I got my normal Nittos again. They said a lot of those high mileage tires are really hard rubber compounds. They made a comment that they should not have sold them to me for that truck.

ATs like that should not need that long of a wear in period.
 
Wider tires mean more square inches of contact with the ground. Less pounds per square inch downforce on the tires. Lower aspect ratio of most 17 inch tires means less side wall flex .
Leveling kit = less flex in suspension decrease in how fast and tight you can turn . If you don't want to go back to a narrower tire , you have a couple options add some weight to the back , or adjust tire pressure
I would also take a good look at you front suspension components,especially your track bar and make sure they are tight.
 
Wider tires mean more square inches of contact with the ground. Less pounds per square inch downforce on the tires. Lower aspect ratio of most 17 inch tires means less side wall flex .
Leveling kit = less flex in suspension decrease in how fast and tight you can turn . If you don't want to go back to a narrower tire , you have a couple options add some weight to the back , or adjust tire pressure
I would also take a good look at you front suspension components,especially your track bar and make sure they are tight.
None of that is an issue with that size. That is an extremely modest tire size compared to most, for that truck. It should run like stock or better.
 
None of that is an issue with that size. That is an extremely modest tire size compared to most, for that truck. It should run like stock or better.
Science says different . It not like I worked in a tire shop and rebuilt front ends and did alignments for over 20 years or anything so what would I know?
Three basics of alignment,toe,camber,caster.
Caster is responsible to steer ability , handling characteristics of the vehicle.
Caster is negatively effected by both the bigger tires and the lift reducing caster results in less traction and reduced steer ability.
Then consider dodge suspension characteristics. With coil spring suspension the only thing that keeps the front axle square with the frame and rear axle is the track bar and trailing arms . If you put a leaving kit on without changing to an adjustable sway bar . You are pulling the axle to one side as well as trailing arms. This is magnified by adding larger tires.
Going from 265 to 285 tires increases tire contact with the road by more than 3/4 inch across the contact area , reducing the pound per square inch contact with the road magnifying the reduced traction from the decreased caster.
 
@Rmc You realize he said rear end, right?
That statement proves how little you understand the very basics of science related to steer ability and handling characteristics of vehicles
Changing caster , suspension characteristics, and axle placement of the front axle dramatically change handling and steer ability of the entire vehicle.
As does tire psi and contact size /shape of where the tire contacts the ground. As does weight on front axle compared to back axle.
 

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