Which truck to buy based on these needs and travel.

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We have quite a few of these 4 cylinder diesel utilities. The dual cab versions are the highest selling class of motor vehicle. They are the standard vehicle for tradesmen and get a lot of farm work and are very economical to run and stand up to the rough Australian conditions well. They include the Toyota Hilux, Ford ranger (5 cylinder), Mazda DT50 (rebadged Ranger), Nissan Navara, Holden Colorado, Isuzu Dmax Volkswagon Amarook ( I think a small V6 diesel now). All are rated to tow 3.5 tonne. They are also popular with the grey Nomads to tow the caravan on the trip around Australia. My wife drives a Colorado and we tow our 2.2 tonne caravan with it.

Ken
For my curiosity's sake, what's a Grey Nomad? And is a caravan what Americans refer to as a travel trailer (Recreational Vehicle)?

Thanks!
 
For my curiosity's sake, what's a Grey Nomad? And is a caravan what Americans refer to as a travel trailer (Recreational Vehicle)?

Thanks!
Grey Nomad is what most people do here when they retire, buy a caravan (travel trailer) and vehicle to tow it and go for the trip around Australia. Some silly people even sell their home to buy it.

Ken
 
Grey Nomad is what most people do here when they retire, buy a caravan (travel trailer) and vehicle to tow it and go for the trip around Australia. Some silly people even sell their home to buy it.

Ken
Thanks! I was picturing some sort of modern Aborigine tribe with such!:ROFLMAO:
 
Way back when we had something similar to that Ken in what was the Chevy Luv/ Isuzu Pup. Nearly indestructible until they rusted apart but motor/ drivetrain was fantastic. Little 4 cyl. Isuzu diesel was great on fuel and tough!

Nothing like that available now and if it was our lovely EPA regulations would have it very expensive and unreliable. Powerhouse gas V6 motors are the thing here and some are pretty impressive both in power and durability. A few half tons now with diesels are around but the EPA problems plague them.
 
What are the weak points after that many miles?

It all varies depending on the model.

GMs with the 4L60E trans will usually puke around 200k. Fords with the 5.4 will often succumb to cam phaser failures, the bill for that is usually more than the truck is worth, the parts alone are over $1000.

GM 1500s with the G80 locker in the rear diff often blow before 200k too, much less if they've been abused.

I have 318k on my 06 Silverado. It's running just fine but has been using more oil lately. Smoking too. The engine is pretty tired. Trans and rear diff have both been rebuilt, transfer case needs it, it's leaking from a hole in the case because of the pump rub issue.
 
It all varies depending on the model.

GMs with the 4L60E trans will usually puke around 200k. Fords with the 5.4 will often succumb to cam phaser failures, the bill for that is usually more than the truck is worth, the parts alone are over $1000.

GM 1500s with the G80 locker in the rear diff often blow before 200k too, much less if they've been abused.

I have 318k on my 06 Silverado. It's running just fine but has been using more oil lately. Smoking too. The engine is pretty tired. Trans and rear diff have both been rebuilt, transfer case needs it, it's leaking from a hole in the case because of the pump rub issue.
What's a short block run for those trucks? I put a GM motor and trans in my 98 at one time and it was cheap. Had warranty and all.
 
What's a short block run for those trucks? I put a GM motor and trans in my 98 at one time and it was cheap. Had warranty and all.
$1500 for a short block, closer to 2k with heads, just a basic iron block 5.3.

A low mileage take out assembly is like $1500 for the proper aluminum L33 aluminum block engine that is in my truck. Those are kind of desirable since it's a rarer option and people want them for hot rods.
 
I have 318k on my 06 Silverado. It's running just fine but has been using more oil lately. Smoking too. The engine is pretty tired. Trans and rear diff have both been rebuilt, transfer case needs it, it's leaking from a hole in the case because of the pump rub issue.
I know a guy who had a tranny rebuild after being overloaded with hay...

What is a relative life of 5.3 vs. 6.0 drive train?
 
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I would strongly recommend not buying a GM product with a 5.3 vortec during the early emissions years. I think 08-15. Unless you can get the active fuel management turned off. Google 5.3 active fuel management problems for some background. We put motors in 23 of our 30 1/2 ton Chevys because of this.
 
I just replaced a 2008 5.3 because of the active fuel management system at 153000. Had been told it was turned off when I bought it with 82000. Cost 4800 and that was buying a GM re-manufactured crate engine and me doing the work.
 
I know a guy who had a tranny rebuild after being overloaded with hay...

What is a relative life of 5.3 vs. 6.0 drive train?

Pretty comparable. The engines are very similar, 6.0 trucks got the 4L80E up until 07 I think, those were generally pretty tough when taken care of, better than the 4L60 in the 1500s.

6.0s never got the AFM/DOD garbage that the 5.3s got after 07 too.

I have seen more rear differential issues with Ford than GM. Does drain and clean do much for rear differential life?

It certainly helps, but a bad design is a bad design. In GMs case those G80s weren't built tough enough to handle the shock load that occurs every time they engage.
 
What models got the G80 differentials?
Any from the early 90s to now. Not sure when the first year was. Our 95 K3500 has one.

I want to say it is more common in 1500s with offroad packages, but you could it get it in pretty much any trim. There's a decal on the bottom of the glovebox that has all of the 3 digit RPO codes printed on it. These show the original equipment that the truck came with. All codes starting with "G" pertain to the running gear, G80 would indicate that it came with the G80, and GT4, for example, would indicate a 3.73 gear ratio.

On Fords the axle info is on the door placard.
 
I'm really down on the 1/2 tons after 08. They got pretty light duty and got afm and all kinds of other nonsense.
Have had three early 2000s K1500s that have held up well. Seemed to get tired at 250K to 280K miles. Still driving one.
Have a 2011 K1500 that has not held up as well. It is at 180K miles
Found a clean 2005 6.0 HD and put 2 grand into it. A little hard on gas, but it has a lot more ag capacity.
 
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Have had three early 2000s K1500s that have held up well.
Have a 2011 K1500 that has not held up as well.
Found a clean 2005 HD and put 2 grand into it. A little hard on gas, but has a lot more capacity.
Yup. Had a new 08 and 10 1500. That was the end of my new half ton career.

Got an 05 F150 for my take it easy/ farm truck.
 
I've got my 99 Dodge 3500 dually with the 5.9 Cummins that I'm still getting over 20 mpg highway with. I've had times when I hit 25 mpg with it. Over the 21 year peroid I have only spent about $5k on repairs and the most expensive was the VP-44 injector pump. I also completely torn the front supesion out and totally rebuilt it. If you don't mind an older truck they are the best fuel misers.
 
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