When to bush hog

Help Support CattleToday:

St3

Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2024
Messages
19
Reaction score
24
Location
Simpsonville Ky
When do yall clip your pasture? Here in KY the iron weeds are killing us. Rule of thumb for us is not letting the weeds get to seed….. right now we are coming in after a pasture is grazed and are clipping the weeds

Some fields get ahead of us though… so I'm going in and clipping the grass and super tall weeds up about a foot or so

Thoughts?
 
If I knew when it was going to rain during the growing season, I could tell you when to bush hog.
Seems like ever time I mow my pastures, we head into a mini drought.
In a wet year I try to mow in early June and again in late August, one to get the grass seed heads and the other to get weeds.
My old friend and neighbor, who taught me a lot, in his elder years mowed three hours a day with a five foot bush hog from June through September. He sat in the shade most of the rest of the day.
I sometimes think I can still hear him hitting rocks with his bush hog when I sit on my porch, even though he has been gone over 40 years. A deep creek bed and hollow lay between our farms but we were close "as the crow flies". He always said, "bush hogs make grass". I bought his bush hog at his estate sale after he died.
 
If I knew when it was going to rain during the growing season, I could tell you when to bush hog.
Seems like ever time I mow my pastures, we head into a mini drought.
In a wet year I try to mow in early June and again in late August, one to get the grass seed heads and the other to get weeds.
My old friend and neighbor, who taught me a lot, in his elder years mowed three hours a day with a five foot bush hog from June through September. He sat in the shade most of the rest of the day.
I sometimes think I can still hear him hitting rocks with his bush hog when I sit on my porch, even though he has been gone over 40 years. A deep creek bed and hollow lay between our farms but we were close "as the crow flies". He always said, "bush hogs make grass". I bought his bush hog at his estate sale after he died.
Thank you for sharing that. Thats an incredible story. I miss those old timers.
My brother and I farm the 215 acres that my grandpa bought when he got home from ww2. He's been gone for 10 years now, but we're still hitting the barb wire and cattle panels he just surrendered to the fields…. Makes me halfway smile when I'm untangling the wire I know he last touched from one of the blades of our batwing
 
There are two instances when you should clip/brush hog your pastures....... Well, maybe a 3rd, but if you clip regularly for either or both of the first two, the 3rd won't ever be a factor.

I posted about the first one with @GreyGus in 'Mowing Pastures' yesterday. The first reason to mow/clip your pastures and the timing on it (and many producers cut too late to be effective) is to remove the seedheads on grasses. TO BE FULLY EFFECTIVE, this must be done at or just before the 'dough/soft dough' stage of seedhead formation. The intent of doing it at this point in time is to remove as many seedheads as possible BEFORE the seeds in the seedheads trigger a hormonal response in the plant that tells the plant to slow its growth because it (the plant) has met its yearly goal which is to produce seed. Mowing once at this point in time should remove at least 80% of the seedheads for the season and will more than likely remove better than 90% of the seedheads. Removal of even 80% is enough to maintain the pastures in a growing (vegetative) state for a considerably longer period of time than if seedheads had been allowed to form. Seedheads can be mowed later to prevent pinkeye/eye damage, but seeds have developed at that point and grass growth impacted in a way grass/forage farmers (you) typically don't want. So mow earlier and accomplish both goals.

The 2nd occasion to mow your field is immediately AFTER the animals are moved off the field and 'weeds' will be going to seed very soon. Mowing at this point in time allows livestock to take full advantage of standing forage prior to mowing and the high protein content weeds that they do eat (not all weeds) without cutting any grass and 'wasting' it. Mowing at this time (the weeds) does a couple things. Removes the seedheads prior to seed formation, and also 'levels the playing field' by setting weeds to the same height as the grazed grass and thus eliminating any ungrazed size advantage the unpalatable weeds may have during grass regrowth. This is particularly important for cool season grasses in late summer that are sod formers just prior to the early fall/late season 'greenup' period after the summer slump.

The third occasion, and not likely to be utilized where the first two are used but much more likely to be used in the west where the first 2 reasons/times aren't utilized, is when/where there is brush removal required. The timing of this application isn't near as important than the first two reasons, unless you are in the west. In that case, particularly if you are planning on implementing a seeding immediately after the brush control, do NOT mow the undesirable brush after it has produced seed for that year and then proceed to drill and/or till the ground when planting your planned forages as that will effectively plant thousands of seeds of the undesirable brush. I was in a class while a MS student at Oregon State University when the field trip took us to a BLM planting that had failed. We listened to the employee who did the planting explain the preparation and seeding and 'in spite of' all the efforts the BLM made, the seeding was overrun with new brush growth within 5 years of the planting. The BLM couldn't figure out why all the brush came back up. I asked, in front of the group of trainees (which I was one), and my tactfulness has improved since then, "When did you brush hog the sagebrush?" The BLM employee answered "mid-late October, and then drilled the grass seed" I replied/asked, in front of everyone there, "Didn't that effectively plant thousands of sagebrush seed?" (The answer was yes as the sagebrush went to seed a couple months earlier.) I got a scowl and what amounted to a stutter of a response back. A learning point for everyone, (including myself about tactfulness) about timing ('timing' in more ways than one) :).
 
It doesn't happen in one year but the best way to control Ironweed is by spraying. If it is thick a broadcast spraying is required. In a couple years spot spraying will handle it.
But along with that soil sampling and correction of whats needed is the best investment. If you have good grass and its growing well you wont have weeds.
 
I agree with Kenny on the ironweeds. I have no problem with them in ground that is occasionally cultivated, but on long term pastures over 30 years old, it seems mowing just reinvigorates them. The pastures look better and the grass is out of the shade after mowing, but the ironweeds are still there.
At my age it seems I am like the old mule who knows one way back to the barn, and keep wanting to take that same path.
 
Not gonna spray unless we absolutely have too. The fall out from the chemicals is too much imo. I'm not judging anyone spraying, I just don't want it in my soil.
Im not judging you for not spraying but to me it is better to spray and then spot spray 1% of the area than it is to bush hog everything 2 times a year for a lifetime. 24D will get most weeds and is very safe and pretty darn cheap.
 
An old cow man told me that if you had to choose between fertilizer or herbicide, choose controlling weeds. Texas A&M did a comparison in both a dry year and wet year comparing the difference in the amount of grass produced when weeds were sprayed early, sprayed late, and mowed. Those things were also compared on fertilized and unfertilized pastures. Controlling the weeds early produces the most grass. Look for yourself: http://forages.tamu.edu/PDF/BadeInfo1.pdf
 
Im not judging you for not spraying but to me it is better to spray and then spot spray 1% of the area than it is to bush hog everything 2 times a year for a lifetime. 24D will get most weeds and is very safe and pretty darn cheap.
Exactly. A lot of times you can do a good initial spraying and then if you manage the grass, fert, etc you are good for years and years with very little touch up.

Trading chemicals for running equipment over ground non-stop is potato-potato, imo. Your just picking your poison.
 
This area grows birdsfoot trefoil better than anything. It produces well on our soils and is very nutritious.

Spraying 24D will control weeds but also wipe our the trefoil. Therefor I choose to have trefoil and either live with weeds or mechanically control them with mowing.
 
This area grows birdsfoot trefoil better than anything. It produces well on our soils and is very nutritious.

Spraying 24D will control weeds but also wipe our the trefoil. Therefor I choose to have trefoil and either live with weeds or mechanically control them with mowing.
I can understand that also. I controlled the weeds and now only spot spray to control weeds they won't eat. This year almost no spraying except under the electric fences.
 
Im not judging you for not spraying but to me it is better to spray and then spot spray 1% of the area than it is to bush hog everything 2 times a year for a lifetime. 24D will get most weeds and is very safe and pretty darn cheap.
Not gonna spray unless we absolutely have too. The fall out from the chemicals is too much imo. I'm not judging anyone spraying, I just don't want it in my soil.
I'll refer to the Jim Garrish quote again, "It depends". Spraying has a much more 'definitive' and longer term impact (unless its an annual) on weeds, as well as everything else (think clover). Spot spraying is great. It's another matter if the weeds are 'nicely dispersed evenly' across the pasture. The Texas A&M herbicide vs mowing is interesting. With that in mind, I wonder how heavy the weeds were. There has got to be a threshold level for weed density, and it's going to be different for mowing than it is for spraying.
 
When you spray a herb it is amazing how good the grass looks after a good rain. It almost looks like it has been fert.

I like diversity for wildlife but I'm not fooling myself, that diversity is costing us grass and one method is not better than the other.

Most people are too quick to crank up equipment before looking at stocking rates and other factors. That is both the shredders and the sprayers.
 
This was ironweed. They hammer it here with grazing pressure. They strip it in the least, oftentimes gnaw it down to a 12-24" stump. They get up over my head often.

It won't let me upload the poat-grazing picture. But ground at bottom of picture was equally as overgrown 2 or 3 days prior.
 

Attachments

  • 20240730_154119.jpg
    20240730_154119.jpg
    714.6 KB · Views: 22
  • 20240802_105133.jpg
    20240802_105133.jpg
    547.1 KB · Views: 24
  • 20240802_110535.jpg
    20240802_110535.jpg
    627.2 KB · Views: 21
These are my spray vs no spray pictures. There hasn't been cows in the pasture and we have been getting good rain. It's amazing the difference herb vs no herb makes in grass production.

This first one shows some dove weed in a turn I didn't go back for. The grass in that triangle is about 1/2 as much as the spray area beside it.

20240808_124703.jpg

This is an open field. The light color green on the left is knee high grass. It has enough grass it could be bailed. The dark green on the right in weeds. It's patchy and thin. You can even see some open ground. This is a hill near water that had gotten hit hard during the drought. It has been rested since it started raining and the difference between the sprayed vs unsprayed is amazing. I'm kicking myself for not getting back sooner.

20240808_124211.jpg
 
Last edited:
These are my spray vs no spray pictures. There hasn't been cows in the pasture and we have been getting good rain. It's amazing the difference herb vs no herb makes in grass production.

This first one shows some dove weed in a turn I didn't go back for. The grass in that triangle is about 1/2 as much as the spray area beside it.

View attachment 47895

This is an open field. The light color green on the left is knee high grass. It has enough grass it could be bailed. The dark green on the right in weeds. It's patchy and thin. You can even see some open ground. This is a hill near water that had gotten hit hard during the drought. It has been rested since it started raining and the difference between the sprayed vs unsprayed is amazing. I'm kicking myself for getting back sooner.

View attachment 47894

What did you use for herbicide?
 
I've noticed this discussion over bush hogging has come up several times over the years.
Generally, those from Texas argue that spraying is much superior to mowing. Many, like myself from Kentucky, Virginia or similar states argue the benefits of bush hogging.
Could it be that both are right? The terrain here and aggressive growth of brush and woody type weeds has always made mowing more practical for me and can turn an overgrown jungle into something looking like a pasture. Its only recently that spraying pastures has become a thing here.
Never been to Texas but the pictures show a much flatter landscape with larger fields. Is the growth of aggressive woody brush the problem there it is here? Maybe terrain, climate and pasture species determine which is best.

Also, I take pride in the amount of white clover, red clover and other legumes in the pastures and feel they dilute our KY 31 fescue to our benefit. I have resisted spraying across the whole pastures, instead only spot spraying thistles and along fence rows and under electric fences.
 
I've noticed this discussion over bush hogging has come up several times over the years.
Generally, those from Texas argue that spraying is much superior to mowing. Many, like myself from Kentucky, Virginia or similar states argue the benefits of bush hogging.
Could it be that both are right? The terrain here and aggressive growth of brush and woody type weeds has always made mowing more practical for me and can turn an overgrown jungle into something looking like a pasture. Its only recently that spraying pastures has become a thing here.
Never been to Texas but the pictures show a much flatter landscape with larger fields. Is the growth of aggressive woody brush the problem there it is here? Maybe terrain, climate and pasture species determine which is best.

Also, I take pride in the amount of white clover, red clover and other legumes in the pastures and feel they dilute our KY 31 fescue to our benefit. I have resisted spraying across the whole pastures, instead only spot spraying thistles and along fence rows and under electric fences.
Getting it fairly clean and spot spraying is the best thing for me. In rotational grazing I can avoid bush hogging or clipping pasture on some paddocks but always some get ahead of me.
One thing i notice in my area is many like for their farms to look clean. They know nothing about a problem with fescue seedheads or much of anything else. One especially sprays everything in the spring and soon afterwards will bush hog. 3, 15 to 18 ft batwings will cover a lot of ground fast. But also along much of the fences he will have 2 guys weedeat the roadbanks. He even states that it costs 3 calves to weed eat but doesnt it look good. He has 700 cows but doesn't farm for a living so he can make it look good i guess.
 

Latest posts

Top