what would you do

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bigbull338

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as yall know i put a new battery an changed the oil an filer on the 4 wheeler.filled it up with gas cranked it an put it in grear.an it wouldnt move.so 2 things could be wrong the break pads are froze up or the front differental is out.talked to the shop this morning.they said it could be $400 for parts an $500 for labor to rebuild it.said the diff was prolly out of oil.so what would yall do rebuild it or look for a new workhorse.im thinking overhaul it.but id like to have a new workhorse as well.
 
bigbull338":26yjcllb said:
as yall know i put a new battery an changed the oil an filer on the 4 wheeler.filled it up with gas cranked it an put it in grear.an it wouldnt move.so 2 things could be wrong the break pads are froze up or the front differental is out.talked to the shop this morning.they said it could be $400 for parts an $500 for labor to rebuild it.said the diff was prolly out of oil.so what would yall do rebuild it or look for a new workhorse.im thinking overhaul it.but id like to have a new workhorse as well.

:p Bigbull, this post has I really want a new one dripping all over it. You don't need our permission to treat yourself, go ahead and help the economy and get yourself a new one. Then tear into the old one and try to fix it to use when you don't want to get the new one dirty. :mrgreen:
 
Personally, I'd fix it myself. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to work on those things. Clymer makes some excellent manuals that will walk you through it step by step. Brakes are cheap. If it's the front diff and you don't want to sink much into it, disconnect the shafts and trash the front diff. 2wd is better than NO-wd.
 
honestly id love a mew 4-wheeler.but ill prolly end up having the old 1 overhauled.will take the wheels off an check the break pads 1st.im hoping its the break pads.an im no machinic.so me overhauling it is out.
 
Bigbull, Have you tried Utility Off Road.com. They have a Ouestion and Answer Board that might help you. Good luck, Tom :cboy:
 
ive decided just to take it to the shop.an bite the bullet an have it fixxed.but what ticks me off is no one really knows what maybe wong.an yes i know they have to tear it down an look at it.if i seen a prob more than once i usually know whats wrong without looking at it.an what it takes to fix it.
 
my dealer asked if i had gotten wayer in the front diff.an i told him as far as i knew i hadnt.right now they say it should cost me $800 or more to overhaul it.an i may jack it up an check the breaks before i haul it to the shop.right now itll be sometime next week fore i check it or haul it in.
 
I think I agree with the majority here and say, take the 5 minutes to do some basic troubleshooting so that if you do decide to take it in, you have some idea of the nature of the problem.. 2 secs with a floor jack and you can have both front wheels off the ground and try to spin them by hand.

knowing what kind of 4wheeler would be helpful to, as some makes don't use mechanical brakes and therefore less likely to lock on. (more likely not to stop you).

Also, you really weren't clear on whether the bike tried to move and if it sorta nose-dived when you tried. if brakes are seized then the resistance from the wheels not turning will try to collapse the front suspension.

I've rebuilt a rear differential on a big Suzuki, and it took me longer to take all of the skid plates and other junk off and put back on then the actual diff.

If you are mechanically inclined, the Clymers manuals will give you the information to do a lot of the work yourself.

good luck.

rod
 
is a 500 honda rubicon 4 x 4 automatic.ill jack it up an spin the front wheels an pull them off to check the brakes.if the front diff is out im looking at it being in the shop 2wks.due to physcial limitations i cant do the overhaul myself.when you put it in gear it slipps an slides on the front axel.an they wont turn in gear or out of gear.the easy fix would be stuck brakes..
 
I did read your previous post after I had already sumitted my opinion.. sounds like brakes (if they are drum type). the suzuki diff i had a part was very compact and the guy ran it dry, so it evenutally burned up the bearings and spit the axle out. if the bike has been sitting without moving for sometime, then brakes again come to mind..

are the brakes connected by cables or hydraulics?? if cable brakes, then they are most definitely drum brakes. how easily does the handle operate??? do you pull them on and they stick?? do they move at all?? can you see and of the mechanical parts moving when trying to operate the brakes??

all quick things you can check before chewing up time at the shop...

good luck.

rod
 
1 handbreak works like its supposed to.an it dosent stick squeezing it.the other hand break is out of break fluid an its real loose.but its the right wheel that appears tobe locked up.but it wont hurt to check the wheels an brakes.
 

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