What to spray with?

[TheLazyM]

Lazy M,
I agree with you on composting, and here at Watson Ranch the compost that goes into our Aerobic Compost Tea is not only properly composted but then feed to Earth Worms for a Huge boost in just about every nutrient the plant needs. What I was saying, because of the fact that many times that uncomposted chicken litter is used, it is better to spray Effective Micro Organisms on top of them to decompose them faster and fight any bad bacteria that is in the uncomposted litter. That goes for any organic matter applied to a field that is not properly composted.
I would like to correct you on one thing, I do not carry Emulsions. I carry Hydrolized fish, there is a big difference. When talking about Fish Emulsions, the way it is manufacture is, all the marketable products in the fish are taken out, meat, bone/calcium, oil ect. Then the remains are cooked up and sold as Fish Emulsions fertilizer, it is smelly and not very effective.
Hydorlized fish, is a cold process using the whole fish with all the goodies still there. It is an excellent fertilizer product that has many benefits to the soil and the livestock. It is not nearly as smelly.
The Garlic product that I use to help control leaf eating insects, when applied with the Fish and Seaweed product, becomes systemic in the plant and will not wash off. I have even noticed that when the garlic is applied for two years in a row, in a hay pasture, that the third year there is enough left in the grass to carry me thru the third year. I have not been brave enough to chance it into the fourth year, I just re apply, shoot it is only $3.00 per acre.
Brad

Let me tell you something that happened 5 years ago. this farmer down the road got hit my the health depart. he had chicken litter piled up. they gave him a 2 weeks to get rede of it or they would shut him down. he has a big contract with goldkist, they would own everything he gots. so what does he do he starts giving it to people for fertilizeer. farmers where hearing about it and buying it for $35 a ton. so quickly this guy sets up composts. he did his math and yea buddy he was making money. cause in the 1st 2 yrs the chicken litter was composted. 3rd yr he was swamped. last yr the guy i buy hay from bought a ton and sent off a sample. it came back that that sample had $2.00 worth of nitrogen and just a little better on the p and k per ton. so one would have to spread alot more chicken litter to get the same as commercial. the cost would be some where around $185 a ton. i dont remeber the numbers that we used to come up with that cost. the chicken litter did have traces of lime in it but hey the guy feed lime and phosphate to the chickens. but it was'nt enough to keep up the ph. all this comes down to the fact the guy isnt properly composting. he is keeping up with supply and demand. people 5 yrs ago got a good product and jumped on the band wagon now that the good supply is long gone and dont know that what they are getting is differnt than then and keeping him busy by spreading more and more. he needs to shut down on the export and compost.so now why do i want to spread half rotten mateiral then have to spread something else to finish the job? why not just do it right. oh i know you have to keep up with supply and demand and the demand uses it faster than it takes to compost it. nsee at first they use to add ammonia nitrate and a few chemicals to help speed it up. but as prices started to going up it was getting into their pockets so the cant do that. so the logical thing to do is sell the raw material then sell you the compost. and this is healthy? i will not believe it......
you can't correct me cause the emulsion i was talking about was an insecticide thats water proof. i wasnt talking about your emulsions, and if yours is organic you really dont have to have an emulsion{for eviroment sake} in insecticides emulsion isnt geared for the inviroment reason its geared to the product lasting longer in wet conditions.

 

[Ranchcop]

Lazy M,
Once again I totally agree with you about the compost, you should look up a man by the name of Malcom Beck here in Texas, He is a compost Guru, and really does it right.
I am sorry but once again I DO NOT have any product that could be referred to as Emulsions, I am sorry that I did not make that clear enough in my last post. There are products on the market commonly know as fish emulsions that are considered organic. They dont work as well and I Do Not carry them.
Brad

 

[TheLazyM]

Lazy M,
Once again I totally agree with you about the compost, you should look up a man by the name of Malcom Beck here in Texas, He is a compost Guru, and really does it right.
I am sorry but once again I DO NOT have any product that could be referred to as Emulsions, I am sorry that I did not make that clear enough in my last post. There are products on the market commonly know as fish emulsions that are considered organic. They dont work as well and I Do Not carry them.
Brad

i rest my case......
i did not suggest that you did carry emulsions. i made a statement about emulsions. the ones out side. i believe i was saying that water doesnt carry them into the soil. please quit devending your self about emulsions, i dont think you have any.

 

[Ranchcop]

lazy m wrote,
i wasnt talking about your emulsions, and if yours is organic you really dont have to have an emulsion.


Ok LazyM, if you say so. [/u]

 

[TheLazyM]

i know you have emulisons and what not but also mosdt of them are licence only. so really all that can happen is an animal or human come into dangerious contact with the poison or not using the poison as it is labeled and the pest come immune to it.

Ranchcop is this what you are talking about? that you was not directed to you. i meant that in pesticides you have emulsions, meaning that one has the option of using emulsions, that they are there if you want them. but i dont know of one that is'nt licence only.

 

[Ranchcop]

Terms
By legal definition, the term fertilizer refers to a soil amendment that guarantees the minimum percentages of nutrients (at least the minimum percentage of nitrogen, phosphate and potash).

An organic fertilizer refers to a soil amendment derived from natural sources that guarantees, at least, the minimum percentages of nitrogen, phosphate, and potash. Examples include plant and animal by-products, rock powders, seaweed, inoculants, and conditioners. These are often available at garden centers and through horticultural supply companies.

The term soil amendment refers to any material mixed into a soil. A mulch refers to a material placed on the soil surface. By legal definition, soil amendments make no legal claims about nutrient content or other helpful (or harmful) affects it will have on the soil and plant growth. In Colorado, the term compost is also unregulated, and could refer to any soil amendment regardless of active microorganism activity.

Many gardeners apply organic soil amendments, such as compost or manure, which most often do not meet the legal requirements as a fertilizer but add small amounts of nutrients.

Organic products require the activity of soil microorganisms before nutrients are available for plant uptake. This period is known as the release time. Microorganism activity is dependant on soil temperatures greater than 50 degrees F in the presence of sufficient soil moisture. Dry and/or cold soil conditions will delay the release of nutrients from these organic sources. This period refers to how long these products are available if applied to the soil. Use this information to time the application of the product.


Application refers to different products being applied in various ways. Some may be tilled in (worked into the soil with a machine or hand tool), others may be applied as a foliar spray (mixed with a surfactant and sprayed in a fine mist on the leaf surface while temperatures are below 80 degrees F), and some may be injected into a drip or overhead irrigation system (fertigation with a siphon mixer). Application rates in this fact sheet are generalized and based on some manufacturers' recommendations. Over or under fertilization may occur using these recommendations.

See soil and fertility resources at tp://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/crops/pubcrop.html for information on how to take a soil sample, interpret soil test results, guidelines for fertilizing vegetables, and best management practices for N and P fertilization.

1D. Whiting, Colorado State University, Cooperative Extension consumer horticulture specialist and Colorado Master Gardener coordinator; C. Wilson, Extension horticulture agent, Denver County; and A. Card, Extension agriculture/4-H agent, Boulder County. 11/05.

Colorado Master Gardener training is made possible, in part, by a grant from the Colorado Garden Show, Inc.

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Updated Thursday, December 01, 2005.

 

[Angus Guy]

Having went to and read about the Colorado study I will say that it was interesting. I cannot give it to much credit as to how it will work in the farming and ranching world. They wre dealling with small garden plots where we will be doing 100's or 1000's of acres. Also their study did not show the cost effectiveness of organic vs convential. Because of the yeild hits a farmer would take in the build years of an organic program it is not economically feasable. Also with the high price of land (rent or purchase) the risks are to great.

 

[Ranchcop]

Some of you folks ask about Organics and I tell you, you ask about cost and I tell you, you ask about yield and I tell you, you ask me to show research and I show you, you tell me to prove it and I do.
Guess there is a few in every crowd.
Can't make every body happy!
Brad

 

[TheLazyM]

Some of you folks ask about Organics and I tell you, you ask about cost and I tell you, you ask about yield and I tell you, you ask me to show research and I show you, you tell me to prove it and I do.
Guess there is a few in every crowd.
Can't make every body happy!
Brad

yea i have those days too. i asked about your yields and you gave me the inpression that you dont like answering questions. which dont matter cause really i dont care. for just a few minutes i was curious about what kind of yields per acre your system gets. but your reply very quickly brought me back to my sences.

 

[Ranchcop]

Lazy M Wrote;

you gave me the inpression that you dont like answering questions. which dont matter cause really i dont care. for just a few minutes i was curious about what kind of yields per acre your system gets. but your reply very quickly brought me back to my sences.LazyM,

I have answered all your questions and here is the yield answer again,
My customers normally get between 3 to 4 large round bales per acre per cutting.
I only do square bales on my 60 acres, I average 13,000, 70lb. Bales per year.
That averages out to 216 bales per acre per year, I average 3.5 cuttings per year.
That averages out to 62, 70lb. Bales per acre per cutting.
Brad

 

[TheLazyM]

i know you answered. i didnt say you didnt. i said i have the inperssion you dont like to. i can't spell, but i can read......