what size-new water line?

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Horticattleman":2g5am0so said:
What good is pressure with no flow!?
The static pressure means nothing when you turn on the shower. It is dynamic pressure that constitutes the flow.

BHB you are right in saying it is all about flow, BUT using a pipe too small would make the velocity so high that it wouldn't be able to sustain the flow.

If it is off of a municipal supply, more than likely you are gonna be running with at least 50 psi. and lets say about 20 GPM through a 3/4" meter. The pressure loss on 2" Class 200 pipe(which is less than more expensive sch 40) would be .26 per hundred, or a total psi loss of 6.864.

p.s. RAB I'm looking at my chart here on my desk and 1" pipe would have a PL of 3.11 per hundred for a total of 82.104. Probably better not suck on it, it may pull you through it! AND the velocity would be maxed out at 4.61 FPS. Anything over 5 FPS is dangerous.

I recommend running 2 or 2.5" class 200 if you can get in 20' joints in your area.

Finally! Someone who knows water piping!

I might add the Class 200 pipe has a larger inside diameter than the Schedule 40 and will carry more water.

I would also put in a bigger meter..............
 
Most municipal water services will allow you to put up to a 1 1/2" meter for the same cost based on need. I would say 1/2 mile is need. I would request a 1" meter at the least. With a 1" meter you could probably get away with 1 1/2" - 2" pipe.

MikeC
You're absolutely right, the class 200 PVC has a smaller ID and therefore can carry more water. Sure Sch. 40 is heavier and thicker, but Class 200 is rated for uugghhh 200 psi! Doubt you'll exceed that and the cost is soooo much less. Round here we buy class 200 for around .15 / ft. and sch 40 for round .45 /ft. Big difference. We buy it in lifts of 5500' and that helps on price.
 
We had our water pipe put in from the meter 3" pipe (it was blue and in 15'? sections), by a contractor$2 a foot, materials and labor included, worth every penny in my book. (about 500 ft)..we then split it using 2" pipe (I only remember it was higher pressure rolled pvc pipe). Weve plenty of water pressure with this set up. donna
 
Your line pressure is all determined by the main line. Most rural lines have a fluctuation in the pressure going on the main line.
I have a 2" PVC schedule 40 that runs about 3/4 mile to my house,,and I have a regulator on my line, set with 50 lb pressure going into my house lines.
 
Running Arrow Bill":1z1c58p9 said:
Jogeephus":1z1c58p9 said:
If its a 3/4 outlet, doesn't that limit you to 3/4 pipe. I know if you drop from 1" to 3/4 you will gain pressure but going from 3/4 to 1" - I'm not sure what will happen - I don't think it will be good though.

Sorry, but you're incorrect! Decreasing pipe size increases Velocity, not Pressure.

Pardon moi. :oops: I geuss its velocity I want at my spigot. Is that not what you are really after in your house. So which is it? A pressure washer or a velocity washer? :lol:
 
Jogeephus":jnbhipy5 said:
Running Arrow Bill":jnbhipy5 said:
Jogeephus":jnbhipy5 said:
If its a 3/4 outlet, doesn't that limit you to 3/4 pipe. I know if you drop from 1" to 3/4 you will gain pressure but going from 3/4 to 1" - I'm not sure what will happen - I don't think it will be good though.

Sorry, but you're incorrect! Decreasing pipe size increases Velocity, not Pressure.

Pardon moi. :oops: I geuss its velocity I want at my spigot. Is that not what you are really after in your house. So which is it? A pressure washer or a velocity washer? :lol:

Try filling up a bath tub or a water trough with a pressure washer. It will take weeks. ;-)
 
MikeC":3m422a9l said:
Jogeephus":3m422a9l said:
Running Arrow Bill":3m422a9l said:
Jogeephus":3m422a9l said:
If its a 3/4 outlet, doesn't that limit you to 3/4 pipe. I know if you drop from 1" to 3/4 you will gain pressure but going from 3/4 to 1" - I'm not sure what will happen - I don't think it will be good though.

Sorry, but you're incorrect! Decreasing pipe size increases Velocity, not Pressure.

Pardon moi. :oops: I geuss its velocity I want at my spigot. Is that not what you are really after in your house. So which is it? A pressure washer or a velocity washer? :lol:

Try filling up a bath tub or a water trough with a pressure washer. It will take weeks. ;-)

Now y’all are talking about a nozzle. Let’s not even start that.

What you want to know is Quantity of discharge. This is the cross-sectional area of the pipe times the velocity less any head losses due to friction, sudden expansion or contraction or loss due to bends in the pipe.
And if area goes down then velocity goes up. If area goes up then velocity goes down. The only advantage a larger pipe has is less head loss due to friction.
There is only so much you can do with ¾-inch meter.
The best way to get more water and thus more velocity on the output with sufficient quantity is a bigger meter.
It is like a truck. The more motor the more power.
 
We,ve lived here for over thirty years with the low flow/pressure, so anything would be an inprovement. I had the meter moved & its already set. They didn,t charge me for a new tap, so I wouldn,t want to ask for different meter. I priced 1 1/2 & 2" & there was only 14 cents difference. This is for 2" bell end pvc. Thats a lot of joints to glue, but I don,t think I could handle the 2" roll tubing. If I end up using tubing, I will probably use a smaller size. Most of that tubing has to be fused together with a special tool & thats another probem though. 1" poly pipe is 21 cents & the 2" pvc was 49cents. For 2640 ft. Thats a big price difference. I,m trying to make up my feeble mind what way to go. It,s a big project, I,d probably be stupid not to use the larger diameter pipe. Thanks all you guys for your input & advice. I just love this forum, wish I had found it years ago.
 
donnaIL":3c19ljn1 said:
(I only remember it was higher pressure rolled pvc pipe). Weve plenty of water pressure with this set up. donna

The rolled pipe is absolutely the best. With joints, even if you cut the pipe perfectly square and get it fully inserted into the couplings, there is still a crack at the coupling and a logorythmic friction factor at each coupling throughout the run.

You have to bear in mind that the very best of engineers can sit down and go through Bernoulli's equation and all the Reynolds numbers over and over for each and every restriction and friction factor, and even with computers doing the math, you only get close - sometimes. That is why "flow balance testing" is conducted throughout industry. To ensure everything is properly sized.

The bigger the pipe, the more flow in the core without friction loss. The smoother the pipe, less friction loss. Rolled pipe equals no coupling friction loss.
 

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