Trialer floors

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Scotty

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Got an older trailer and the floor is rotting out. Don't want to sell it, but with the price of wood it is steep to put in new 2 X 12 X 20 floor. Looked at a site on the web that sell them 7.5 X 20 rubber for $204. What are some of yalls ideas.



Scotty
 
Excuse me, not rubber vinal floor. Suposed to be easy to trim and maintain.



Scotty
 
greatgerts":1uso0xql said:
You should take a look at Rumbar for it. It works well, and keeps the trailer nice.. here is a link to a trailer with it.

http://www.geocities.com/horse_pro_trlr ... etail.html

They are even using rumbar on squeeze chute floors.

I don't know if there is a website for rumbar, but I couldn't find it.

Rumbar's great, but if that's what you choose, get the Rumbar with grooves.....helps eliminate slipping.
 
Rumber is twice as high as lumber. Works twice as well but won't lower your cost. At least it figured out that way on my trailer and local material. Lumber is cheap here compared to elsewhere.
 
My chute has a rumbar floor , I like it so far , it's not slippery and it seems like it should last forever, it was more expensive than wood but I think it was worth it
 
Sometimes youcan get aluminum deck boards out of the old yankee pighauler trailers...they make good floors for goosenecks. Theyre sometimes pretty rotten-rusted out on the ends but youve got to trim them anyway....theyre either 96 or 102 wide anyway. Worth looking into. Try to get the smell out before you handle them...ruin your clothes, hands and cattle dont like to load on em if it smells to strong like hogs..cant blame em for that :lol:
 
Just replace one of my trailer floors a couple of months ago. Used 2x6's instead of 2x12's. I like using 2x6 or 2x8 as it allows me to provide more slots (space between boards) for the waste products to flow through the floor and keep the trailer dryer and less slippery. I like the wood floors. But that is just a personal thing with me.

Greg
 
I have a gooseneck brand trailer with rumber flooring. It gets very slippery when you haul for a couple of hours. I took a bull to test, and he urinated and defecated several times along the way. By the time I got to the test station, he was sliding around like he was on ice. I now have a cattle panel nailed to the rumber and that works well.

It is very expensive. I bought two 12 by 8 boards of it to put in my loading shoot. I think it ran about $00. It had grooves, but they run the length not acrossed the plank, so that doesn't help with traction. The chute is also very slippery, and I need to put those metal strips back on it.

It will last and I like the material, but it is slippery, despite what others have said.

Billy
 
Far as I am concerned - wood is best. Cover with straw and traction is good.

If it lasts a few years and it has to be replaced so be it.

Bez
 
We have the wood floor right now and I ran some strips of wood cross ways for traction every foot or so. Works well. You can also use the 'fibergrate' for flooring as long as your trailer doesn't sit in the sun exposed. We have used it on a trailer floor and it works very well.
 
We use wood, and I use 2x6s so its easy to wash out then spray some diseal or used motor oil on the boards every so often. Our last floor lasted 12 years and that on the coastline of Texas were it always raining.
 
Ordered the wood yesterday. Shopped around at Lowes, Home depot, and found the cheapest 2 X 12 X 20' for 32.50 at a local place. Going to run around 205 to 210 for a new floor. The wood is #1 yellow pine.


Scotty
 
If you could have gotten the rubber/vinyl floor for 204, why did you go with pine for 210? Just wandering. Sound like the vinyl would have been the better long term investment - for less money.
 
Subsoil":1kwgy2vg said:
If you could have gotten the rubber/vinyl floor for 204, why did you go with pine for 210? Just wandering. Sound like the vinyl would have been the better long term investment - for less money.


Got to have something to keep the vianl up. It was just a liner, not structural.



Scotty
 
I have a trailer floor that needs replacing. I can se no bolts, what holds the floor in place, mine has no gaps in the floor for drainage. I didn't crawl under, just a quick look. Thanks
 
We replaced the floor in our WW 16ft bumper pull trailer. The way it is put together is on the sides on the trailer at floor level are two pieces of angle iron that hold the floor down. The angle iron has to be cut out, boards lifted out, replaced and the angle iron welded back down.

Hope this helps.
 

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