Maybe, IF you can find a logger in your area that will deal with small quantities..
Tip... IF you do decide to just cut a few trees each year at the beginning of your wooded area, and don't want a problem with every one re-sprouting, before you start your chainsaw..
Get a smalll spray bottle, mix 50/50 or 75/25 mixture of diesel/triclopyr (remedy) or even Tordon RTU. Cut late summer early fall just before leaves begin to change colors. This period is when most sap transport is going down, to store energy in the roots. Not all, but most. They say 'sap is dropping' but that's not exacly true. The vascular system of a plant (trees included) involves sap being pushed up and pushing the upper sap down, and gravity also helps kinda 'siphon' sap up to the leaves from the roots, but roots DO always push sap up, which is why it's important to treat that stump within a few minutes after cutting. Different kinds of saps. To put it simply, the stump and root system don't know the tree is gone and the roots keep pushing sap up, and form a boundary layer on top of the stump and the herbicide can't be drawn down into the root system if you wait too long.
1. Cut the tree down as close to ground as you can. (The logger can later cut the bole off if he wants to)
2. Brush the sawdust off the top of the stump.
3. Within 10-15 minutes (or sooner) of cutting, spray the outer couple of inches of the stump top with the herbicide. This is the cambian layer where the majority of the tree's vascular system is. The inner part of the stump is old vascular material from years past.
There are tons of youtube and other online resources to tell you how to do this. Some herbicide instructions say "you can do cut stump treat any time" but the best time is late summer/early fall becuase it's more effective.
Personal experience...
After my place was all piled up, I embarked on mowing, and mowing, and mowing. You get to know your place pretty good from the seat of a tractor. Twice a year I mowed and I soon noticed, I was mowing down some of the same plants I had mowed down 6 months earlier......
My thought process was, "No plant can survive without leaves". My place was immediately next to Sam Houston National Forest and one day a Texas Forest Service came walking down my fence marking the property line. I went out and talked to him a bit, explained what and how I was doing things and he shook his head no.
"You got a lawn I see and you probably cut your grass every week or 2. Does your lawn die?" I remember his words.
"Mother Nature ain't perfect, but she's got resiliency down pat. You took the land from the forest, but the forest always wants it back..always." You need to get a good chemical program and kill that stuff once and for all."
That's when I parked the bush hogs and attended a class from TAMU call Brushbusters and learned a lot about herbicides and how to use them. The results were heads and shoulders above my mowing plan. Built my own trailer mounted spray rig with a 330 gal tote for a tank I started slaying weeds and brush.
You haven't stated your experience with a chain saw. They're dangerous as hell. Designed to quickly and efficiently cut thru hard wood and softwood. The first one I ever used was back in the late 60s, an old Poulan bow saw. (Those things should be outlawed). But later, got myself a new Stihl Farm Boss (around 2002) saw which was good for what I needed it for.
Flesh, muscle and bone ain't sheit to those teeth. Closest I ever came to serious injury was delimbing a big fallen tree top, and I was tired, that Stihl saw was getting heavy and when I cut thru a limb that was almost above me, I let the saw bar drop down and it sliced thru my wranglers barely missing my leg. Lucky or the Lord was looking after me. This one:
View attachment 47424
Size your saw to your ability and requirements. Don't oversize it to the point it's too long or heavy for you to safely use. They've gotten better and lighter since I bought that Farm Boss but I still have it tho I'm now really too old and decrepit to safely use it....
