Stretching Barbed Wire Between Metal Braces

[Farm Fence Solutions]

you cant set a post good enough on our sand to do that. I used to do it that way but 20 yrs later those posts are pulled in and theyre 8'' posts 4 ft in the ground..but I use the same tech..just cant go as tight. I even use double h braces

We built some in your sand a few weeks ago. 12' strainers, 10' brace posts, 12' struts. Single braced it and stretched just as tight as we would in clay. Conditions vary.....In seepy sand around home, we will use 16' strainers on 4' net wire.

 

[greybeard]

If sandy seeping soil was detrimental to fencing there wouldn't be a cow between Winnie and Bolivar Peninsula. They just plant the posts deeper and lots of 'em.

 

[JHALL]

This is the corner where there will be a gate. I had a question similar to what Tbrake was asking. When stretching wire, do you stretch to the corner post (the post that the gate will hang on in this picture)? Or the brace post? Is there a strength benefit with doing it one way or another? With pictures on the internet and of some local work, I've seen it stretched to the brace post, not the corner.

This is a picture off the Internet.




Would you run the barbed wire to this post? Or the corner post?

 

[callmefence]

This is the corner where there will be a gate. I had a question similar to what Tbrake was asking. When stretching wire, do you stretch to the corner post (the post that the gate will hang on in this picture)? Or the brace post? Is there a strength benefit with doing it one way or another? With pictures on the internet and of some local work, I've seen it stretched to the brace post, not the corner.

This is a picture off the Internet.




Would you run the barbed wire to this post? Or the corner post?

With a brace like that you can go either way. It's totally up to you.
I can sure see making to the line post instead of the end. Makes a handy place to crawl over the fence.

 

[JHALL]

Indeed.

So, seems like the most common method is to stretch the wire and tie it off to itself.

The gripples do look nice. How do they work if you have to restretch fence? I assume you'd have to cut it off before the gripple, patch it and run another gripple to tie it off again?

 

[dieselbeef]

If sandy seeping soil was detrimental to fencing there wouldn't be a cow between Winnie and Bolivar Peninsula. They just plant the posts deeper and lots of 'em.

truejust saying its diff everywhere..sinlge braces fail here unless the post is huge..like 14'' or better 6 ft in...

whatever..i have little fence problems but always learning new ways

 

[callmefence]

Indeed.

So, seems like the most common method is to stretch the wire and tie it off to itself.

The gripples do look nice. How do they work if you have to restretch fence? I assume you'd have to cut it off before the gripple, patch it and run another gripple to tie it off again?

Yes wrap and tie it back to itself. And I personally think a double wrap is stronger. Most breaks occur in the first wrap of the knot. A double wrap decreases strain at that point on a impact.

They gripple works fine to add tension with the contractor tool. You don't have to remove it. Although a proper built fence shouldn't require tightening up.
If you have a break you may have to use two gripples and a small piece of wire. Give the gripple a little squirt of light oil when you install. It'll work smoothly for a good while.

My add photo button came back yesterday. If it stays I'll put some pics up while sitting in the deer stand tomorrow.

 

[JHALL]

Indeed.

So, seems like the most common method is to stretch the wire and tie it off to itself.

The gripples do look nice. How do they work if you have to restretch fence? I assume you'd have to cut it off before the gripple, patch it and run another gripple to tie it off again?

Yes wrap and tie it back to itself. And I personally think a double wrap is stronger. Most breaks occur in the first wrap of the knot. A double wrap decreases strain at that point on a impact.

They gripple works fine to add tension with the contractor tool. You don't have to remove it. Although a proper built fence shouldn't require tightening up.
If you have a break you may have to use two gripples and a small piece of wire. Give the gripple a little squirt of light oil when you install. It'll work smoothly for a good while.

My add photo button came back yesterday. If it stays I'll put some pics up while sitting in the deer stand tomorrow.

That'd be great. First fence I'm building. I did plenty of research, which is how I found this place. I'm trying to cover all my bases and I like to overbuild stuff so I don't have to mess with it later, but I'm expecting some learning curve, just hopefully nothing too terrible.

 

[M.Magis]

A good brace is necessary anywhere if you can only get 4' deep, but especially so with the sugar sand DB has to work with. There's literally no soil, only sand. Most of the fences I see down there have 3-4 braces and I can see why.

 

[dieselbeef]

comon cory..this place is like the beach man...maybe a 14'' telephone pole 6 ft in...
magis..yer right..

ill see if I can take some pics tomorrow of a half butt job I hafta do around my shooting berm....ill see what I got for materials...

 

[greybeard]

Telephone poles corners work well db. No brace ne3ded at 4 ft depth

I use lots of telephone poles (and cross ties). Most at least 4' deep. I have different soils depending where you are, but I have never been able to get by without a brace post anywhere here..especially in the sand down by the river. Not that I haven't tried on some short runs, but sooner rather than later, the single post always start to lean.

 

[dieselbeef]

hardpan is about at 4 ft...sometime 3 but usually the last cpl digs with the post hole diggers will get it but by then the holes finding water