Starter Problem

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Bright Raven

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Cub Cadet EFI 2 cylinder Volunteer Utility Vehicle.

Was not starting. May start 10 times in a row then suddenly not start. Sometimes you hear a click other times nothing. Starter was not turning over.

I bought a solenoid yesterday. 137 bucks. I took the starter off. Oh my. You have to take off the passenger fender well. The panel over the gas tank. Disconnect the coolant lines. Take off the coil to the right cylinder.

I decided after looking at the starter to have it rebuilt. The solenoid cost 137 but the shop will rebuild the starter for $100 and have it back to me at 4 PM.
 
Bright Raven said:
Cub Cadet EFI 2 cylinder Volunteer Utility Vehicle.

Was not starting. May start 10 times in a row then suddenly not start. Sometimes you hear a click other times nothing. Starter was not turning over.

I bought a solenoid yesterday. 137 bucks. I took the starter off. Oh my. You have to take off the passenger fender well. The panel over the gas tank. Disconnect the coolant lines. Take off the coil to the right cylinder.

I decided after looking at the starter to have it rebuilt. The solenoid cost 137 but the shop will rebuild the starter for $100 and have it back to me at 4 PM.
I agree with the rebuild as it sounds like it needs new brushes.
 
Caustic Burno said:
Exactly what I was thinking bad spot in the brushes not letting the bendix engage.

That was my thought. Seems like the bendix is not moving forward to engage the flywheel as easily as it should.
 
Bright Raven said:
Caustic Burno said:
Exactly what I was thinking bad spot in the brushes not letting the bendix engage.

That was my thought. Seems like the bendix is not moving forward to engage the flywheel as easily as it should.

you'd hear the starter whirr if that was the case.. and nowadays most bendixes are forced to the flywheel by the starter solenoid.. some old styles used inertia
 
It has a magnetic solenoid. Yes. It could be only the solenoid but the bendix seems to be sluggish or stuck. Not the right words but I am taking no chances. I only want to put this on or off one last time.



That Cub Cadet Utility vehicle is the most important item on the farm. Notice in my calf picture below. I had to drive the tractor to the back of the farm to weigh the calf and give the intranasal vaccine.
 
Could be dirty battery terminals or the battery is giving up on you. Always check the battery first before going to all the trouble of removing the starter. :oops:

My guess would be 'short brushes'....
 
On a job like that I would just replace it with new.

Have gone the rebuilt route a few times and usually the starter works fine for a few months and then craps out again. There's a lot more to a starter than just brushes, if they are gone, the whole thing is usually close to junk as well. Have replaced just the solenoid as well, and the starter quit not long after. I hate doing jobs twice.

Did one on a 3010 Mule last winter. Talk about a job, starter is sandwiched between the engine and trans. Service info says to remove clutch components and do it from the side. I changed it without doing all of that BS but it took about 4 hours. Can't even get at the stupid thing to test it.
 
Atimm693 said:
On a job like that I would just replace it with new.

Have gone the rebuilt route a few times and usually the starter works fine for a few months and then craps out again. There's a lot more to a starter than just brushes, if they are gone, the whole thing is usually close to junk as well. Have replaced just the solenoid as well, and the starter quit not long after. I hate doing jobs twice.

Did one on a 3010 Mule last winter. Talk about a job, starter is sandwiched between the engine and trans. Service info says to remove clutch components and do it from the side. I changed it without doing all of that BS but it took about 4 hours. Can't even get at the stupid thing to test it.

The guy said he would replace the brushes, the bendix and check the shaft that the bendix rides on. The Cub Cadet dealer recommended the shop that rebuilds the starter.

Alisonb. I replaced the battery and tested it. It was putting out 12.5 volts. That was the first thing I did.
 
Atimm693 said:
On a job like that I would just replace it with new.

Have gone the rebuilt route a few times and usually the starter works fine for a few months and then craps out again. There's a lot more to a starter than just brushes, if they are gone, the whole thing is usually close to junk as well. Have replaced just the solenoid as well, and the starter quit not long after. I hate doing jobs twice.

Did one on a 3010 Mule last winter. Talk about a job, starter is sandwiched between the engine and trans. Service info says to remove clutch components and do it from the side. I changed it without doing all of that BS but it took about 4 hours. Can't even get at the stupid thing to test it.

My hands do not have the dexterity they did 15 years ago. It makes working on equipment a nightmare.
 
Nesikep said:
Bright Raven said:
Caustic Burno said:
Exactly what I was thinking bad spot in the brushes not letting the bendix engage.

That was my thought. Seems like the bendix is not moving forward to engage the flywheel as easily as it should.

you'd hear the starter whirr if that was the case.. and nowadays most bendixes are forced to the flywheel by the starter solenoid.. some old styles used inertia

I got the starter back. The shop replaced the brushes and bendix. He said the bendix was bad. It was not moving as it should to engage the flywheel. The bendix as you say is driven by the solenoid plunger that is magnetic.

I reinstalled the starter on the UTV and it is working fine.
 
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