Since it was a miserable day out - One of those days where the ground moves (snow traveling across the ground from the wind) I started listing items then expanded on things a lot
I don't mean to repeat anyone, but haven't read the posts yet.
Perimeter Fencing
* Look a different style options and costs for cattle fences. Jack fence, steel post and barb wire, wooden post and barb wire, steel or wooden post and woven wire with 2 strains barb on top, wooden post and planks, electrical (not recommended for perimeter fence).
* Build fence independently or hire fencing contractor. If you don't know how, get a contractor to get it done quick so you can get your cattle on the property sooner.
Interior Fencing
* Decide how many pasture and crop sections you want for the amount of cattle the land can accommodate on a normal year. AUM's (Animal Unit Month) or Acres per cow.
* Make sure the fencing design is functional. Cattle travel in instinctive patterns. They move toward corners. Put gates in corners. Have lane/alley way type border fencing if cattle are to go in-between pastures to get to a pasture far ahead - depends on how much land you have. Allow fencing design to have cattle flow to the coral lot.
* Have on hand - staples, pliers, post pounder, hammer,
Roads
* Make sure roads are above flood plain or not on sub irrigated ground.
* Don't put a gravel road right through a prime piece of farming ground or usable ground. Put it on the parameter of the fields.
* If you get snow and it blows in your area, put roads where the snow can cross and keep going as much as possible. If you live in heavy snow areas then plowing regardless of wind is imminent. We do what ski resorts do. Pack the snow. Everything keeps smooth and no piles of snow. But sometimes we have to plow to get out. Putting roads on the side of hills will make the road drifted in very easily. Meaning your going to be plowing until the snow has melted.
Equipment (other than harvest equipment)
* If you have land/roads that need maintenance or new things to do on the property buy a used backhoe and a Cat if you are mechanically inclined. Saves a lot of money if you have the time. D7 Cats from the 40 or 50's can be bought for around $800-$1000 in running condition. Just watch how worn the tracks and rollers are.
* Small/Medium size tractor. Those old Ford 8N's are wonderful. Clean some ditches or smooth things out, etc. Get or make a moldboard (like a grader) to put on the back of the tractor.
*Stock trailer. If you have a neighbor that is good to you and he has one and you have only a few stock maybe you can "hire" him to take things to town.
Corals
*No cheap built systems. This area will be the heaviest pressure. Any poor built systems will allow cattle to break out and the future consequences are the cattle know they can get free and will try to jump, push, to get out again.
* Discourage coral fencing that can be seen through everywhere. Example - pipe fence. The cattle can see you no matter where you are. And they also can see what's happening ahead.
* Cattle follow the leader. If they can only see one to two cows ahead of them they move swifter. Corals and alleyways are slightly curved. Especially the alley leading up to the chute. Holding pens can be rounded(especially as the space gets tighter and nearer to the working chute or loading chute) so the cattle can not stuff into a corner, but keep curving around to the gate.
Water Development
* Water rights. You need to know what your maximum intake is from creeks, canals and other sources where other land owns also have access too. The water rights come with the land. This is the most important part of owning land and your basic property rights ,besides knowing if there is restrictions put upon the land either by easements, or county/city restrictions . Some have "ditch riders" appointed by the county and they will measure your input and/or output. This is still the most heated argument among ranchers. People have been hurt and killed over water arguments. And for sure many court cases over water "ownership".
* Fields, coral systems. Free flow or pump to ditch or sprinkler system. Underground lines buried at least 6 foot with draining ability or valve for constant flow. Ditches that when froze will not ice over areas that are important (corals, buildings, regular access areas). Ice can build up in the feet high and is unstoppable. Don't know if this applies in the Midwest and the South. Flooding - same as the icing over.
* How long does it take your ground to dry up after you turn water off before you can harvest.
Buildings
* Incorporate the above water perception. Have those areas much higher than water at the bank. Don't build on areas that are sub irrigated. Stay above that plain. If you need to build on ground that is sub make sure you dig out and build up to level with rock/gravel/ easy draining soils and then build up more. So it can not sink.
Cattle Buying
*Do not buy junk cattle. Meaning buying a cow without a history. These are usually cattle that go through the sales ring buy themselves not in groups. These cattle can have some disease and wreck you within a ½ a year. The rest of the cattle could get her disease(s). She may also be a man eater. Meaning she has humans for lunch and will attack. Especially during calving. Or she may just have had a poor calf. The owner got rid of her for a reason.
* Do not buy used(non virgin) bulls unless they have be test negative to diseases and has had a sperm count done. And you have seen their temperament. Small operators do not need a rank bull. Bulls pass on diseases to cows when they breed them.
* Don't buy calves that are deformed (especially in the face). This could be a sign of diseases such as PI3.
Record Keeping
* You bought the cattle now need to keep those sales receipts and all brand papers on file. Do not misplace/ throw away brand papers. If there is a question about a cow, the brand on the cow(if it is not your brand) needs to correlate with your brand paper. We sold a cow that didn't have our brand on it or wasn't identifiable and the inspector described the brand. I went home and went through 15 years of brand papers and there was a brand he described. Who knew we even still had cattle from that far back since we were running yearlings at that time. I suppose she was bought as a feeder calf and stayed on to be a bred cow.
* Now you have to identify them - brand those cows. You have to have a registered brand in order to do this. You can't just brand a cow with what you like. Don't make fancy brands because when they heal they look like a blob that is unreadable. Depending on state you can hot iron them or freeze brand. Make sure you look into this. Then if you so should choose put ear tags in them. This will individually identify them. What to put on there. Number of course unless you have only 5 cows you can name them. On the back put your phone number and maybe your name on there. And on the top portion in the front put your brand on there so it is visible. This is so if your cow goes visiting somewhere people can see the brand and either call the inspector or if the neighbor knows your brand he can give you a call.
* Writing things down. Usually first put on to a pocket book then on to the computer. When the cattle got shots, when they bull was put in, when you started feeding hay, when the cow calves, etc. Anything that is new. You'd be surprised that you may need that information down the line. The vet may need some information and you whip out the book and tell him what you know. Don't expect to remember all the info in your head.
Vaccinations
* Give the 7-8 way shots, and the 4-5way & VL5 shots and other region shots needed for breeding cattle (cows and bulls). Calves should also be vaccinated with calf vaccines.
* Give all shots in the neck and if possible SQ (not in the muscle, but just past the skin). Have your vet teach you how. This will leave the meat unharmed = more meat to be boxed.
Nutrition
* Get with a nutritionist. Extension agent or reliable feed company nutritionist. Neighbors can be hit and miss. A lot of them change minerals and programs(if they are on one) as the wind changes. Cheaper is better it seems. That could be like throwing it down the toilet.
* Know your nutrient value of your standing grass, and baled hay and soil.
* Know how long you can graze your cattle.
* Know how many ton you cut and divide out the number of days you need to feed by how much the cattle need to eat to see if you need to supplement(cake, pellets, grain, ect) the hay or buy more hay.
* Mineral program. Example of what is in mineral. Calcium, Phosphorous, Salt, Magnesium, Potassium, Cooper, Selenium, Zinc, Vit A, D and E, grain and molasses. How much depends on your area. The County agent and feed company nutritionist will help you. Stay away from those basic trace mineral blocks.
Cattle price incentives
* Become BQA (Beef Quality Certified). This incorporates the beef friendly practices of giving shots in the neck and also giving the needed vaccines they need. For a small operator this can be beneficial. This goes back to the Cattle buying section where people do not bid on low number cattle going through the ring. If however you can say you are BQA certified buyer will be more confident in buying you calves, and cows.
* Going Natural. If you do not give your calves any antibiotics( this does not include vaccinations) you can sell your calves as all natural. Or go with one of the natural companies.
* I will not encourage to buy a bull from Big Shot Breeder to get a better price on your calves. I will encourage to find good cattle any size breeder. And if big shot has a proven good cow/bull and you have the money fine. But don't fall in the hype biggest, fanciest, flashiest ranch/advertizing is best. Some are good and some have a name.
Calving
* Pasture for open calving if it is nice and an area if the weather is not nice.
* Corals or lean to or barn for bad weather or calving problems.
* Word of caution do not keep cattle in corals for calving at all times this promotes bacteria and disease. Give them space as much as possible.
* Cows are not themselves when they calve. They can be really cranky. If ol Bessie usually follows you don't expect her to do so if you need to get her in. In fact she just may try going over a fence to get to a "better"spot even in normal situations.
* If the calf is born in a wet area cut(scissors) the navel cord off and spray a diluted solution of iodine on it. Prevents infection. Which can cause navel or joint infection. Death is a common. Clean the scissors with iodine after each use.
* Tag the calf for identification. I made a carrier for my things.
* If a calf has scours separate the pair from the others. Depending on why he has scours he could spread it. There are different categories of scours. Milk scours not to be worried so much about. Color is yellowish. Bad scours can be runny and curdled and also have blood, and white. Have on hand medication that is liquid (oral or injectable) and can easily hit the problem. Boluses take a long time to dissolve. By that time it could be to late. We haven't used anything bolus for 14 years. There is also vaccines for cows if scours is a problem in your area.
* If you have several head separate the pairs from the cows that have not calved yet. Two major reasons. 1) if there is a new calf and hasn't figured out that he's got just one mom, a cow that is going to calve with in a day or so will take that calf as if it was hers. That is bad because he doesn't belong to that cow, the calf is drinking the important antibodies meant for the unborn calf when he is born, and when that cow calves she will not pay attention or will reject her own calf she just bor. 2) If a calf gets sick a new born is prone to the sickness.
Calving problems
*Make sure you have a calf puller or a come-a-long and leg chains . You should have someone show you how before that time comes. Shoulder length gloves are optional. Helps in not getting chapped hands and arms instantly. But hinders the "feel". Can't forget the lubricate. Clean piled straw or hay as soon as the calf drops on the ground. It's a long ways down from the cow to the ground. If she is pulled standing. Some instances it is better standing. And some stanches they need to be kept standing and can't lay down.
Do not clean the calf off. Leave then sack on him and all that came with him. Only clear off the nasal area so he can breath. Let the cows clean him off. Be careful if that the cow/heifer isn't mad at the calf (because it hurt her she thinks) and won't want it or butts it under the fence or kills it by stomping or kicking it.
* Presentation. If the calf is coming in a normal presentation the front legs will come out with the front of the hooves being on the top. And the head to follows. If the head is a "big head" she will need help. If the shoulders stop her and no progress has been made she will need help quickly. However there is also a trick to maneuvering shoulders. A vet should help you learn the trick. If it is a backwards presentation the front of the hooves will be on the bottom toward the ground. Get a vet out there. Chances are she won't have it. Sometimes they do but not usually. There is a special way to pull these calves out and beginners should not attempt to pull them out until they learn the trick. Leg or head back. This is a pain. You have to attempt to push the calf back in in order to get the leg or head in line. However a cow is pushing against you a lot of the time. Sometime a muscle relaxer is giving in the spine of the cow so she won't push. This is would be with your vet again. Then there is the caesarian. No way is that calf coming out that cows back end. The vet will open her up on the side and get the calf out. There's are many other abnormal calving situations that the vet needs to attend to.
The Basics
* Have in your pocketbook the name and number of every large animal vet with in 50 miles. Unless you have several vets in the area. Then pick at least 5. There have been many times where everyone needs a vet the same time. Just trying to find one vet available can be hard.
* Visit your local animal supply stores for prices on vaccinations and medications. And check out what other products they have that maybe useful.
* A beat around the ranch pickup. Something that can be hit or scratched.
* Rifle or Pistol for varmits if you know how to shoot.
* 4 wheeler, bike or horse if you know how to ride.
* Bulk gas tank(s). Diesel and Gas (free flow to save electricity or if you don't want to run a electric line to it) if you have both.
*Shop supplies, bolts, mechanic supplies, electric and plumbing supplies.
* Welder. And iron to fix or make things.
* Chain, Cable and rope.
* And my favorite - "Pocket Ref" book.
* And if you are ambitious enough a sawmill to cut all your own lumber. Probably not a item for those not near timber.
