slip clutch

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milesvb

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I've got Bush Hog 3210 HD shredder hooked up to a NH 6610s. The other day I backed it into some serious briar/locust thicket and that green hel! darn near stalled the tractor out before I could get the shredder lifted back up. I have been spraying penetrating lube on the clutch plates every now and again so they won't freeze up from rust but they sure didn't seem to do much slipping. What do you guys do to maintain your slip clutches? Is it a big deal to dissassemble/reassemble them?
 

Wewild

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milesvb":1bmcuxnx said:
I've got Bush Hog 3210 HD shredder hooked up to a NH 6610s. The other day I backed it into some serious briar/locust thicket and that green hel! darn near stalled the tractor out before I could get the shredder lifted back up. I have been spraying penetrating lube on the clutch plates every now and again so they won't freeze up from rust but they sure didn't seem to do much slipping. What do you guys do to maintain your slip clutches? Is it a big deal to dissassemble/reassemble them?

Lube can cause them to stick. We don't put anything on them. They are meant to be replaced.
 
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milesvb

milesvb

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Wewild":h9h3ffil said:
milesvb":h9h3ffil said:
I've got Bush Hog 3210 HD shredder hooked up to a NH 6610s. The other day I backed it into some serious briar/locust thicket and that green hel! darn near stalled the tractor out before I could get the shredder lifted back up. I have been spraying penetrating lube on the clutch plates every now and again so they won't freeze up from rust but they sure didn't seem to do much slipping. What do you guys do to maintain your slip clutches? Is it a big deal to dissassemble/reassemble them?

Lube can cause them to stick. We don't put anything on them. They are meant to be replaced.

I didn't lube them either until it was suggested by a dealer. I forgot to mention this shredder is less than three years old so I sure hope the clutch doesn't need to be replaced yet.
 

Wewild

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milesvb":m0jzeooc said:
I didn't lube them either until it was suggested by a dealer. I forgot to mention this shredder is less than three years old so I sure hope the clutch doesn't need to be replaced yet.

I just never heard of lubing them. They must be adjusted right with the springs or they will not slip. Consult the owners manual as it is on the web. They are a wearable part. Three years may not be long as it comes down to how much you cut per year. How much you cutting?
 
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milesvb

milesvb

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Wewild":2gea70nf said:
milesvb":2gea70nf said:
I didn't lube them either until it was suggested by a dealer. I forgot to mention this shredder is less than three years old so I sure hope the clutch doesn't need to be replaced yet.

I just never heard of lubing them. They must be adjusted right with the springs or they will not slip. Consult the owners manual as it is on the web. They are a wearable part. Three years may not be long as it comes down to how much you cut per year. How much you cutting?

That's difficult to quantify but suffice to say it's nowhere near enough to be worn out. The last time I had clutch trouble (on a different shredder) it was the opposite problem, too much slippage. I haven't messed with the adjustment nuts yet, but from the factory they are adjusted almost to the end of the bolt. I was a bit leery of loosening them further.
 

Wewild

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milesvb said:
That's difficult to quantify but suffice to say it's nowhere near enough to be worn out. quote]

You don't know how much ground you cut?

We got the same model ... never lubed the disks and never had a problem that wasn't expected.

Go back to the dealer and see what he says.
 

dj

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They don't wear out unless they slip, do they?
 
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milesvb

milesvb

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Wewild":2ew90coo said:
You don't know how much ground you cut?

I don't have, say, a known 100 acres to clip every year. The shredder gets used to clip firebreaks in some places, shred brush in other places, even out a pasture here and there though not the same pasture and not every year and not always on the same property. So to figure up how much area I have cut with it would be a WAG at best.

I'll see if I can root up the manual online and find some adjustment guidelines. Thanks.
 

cfpinz

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If it bothers you that much, take the slip clutch apart and sand everything down, don't put any lubricant on them, you're asking for trouble there. The rust is what's binding you up, if you get the discs permeated with a lube, you'll never get them to stick again. I rebuilt one on my cutter last year, parts were around $50 I believe, but yours shouldn't need it yet.

cfpinz
 
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milesvb

milesvb

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cfpinz":15e6wu9h said:
If it bothers you that much, take the slip clutch apart and sand everything down, don't put any lubricant on them, you're asking for trouble there. The rust is what's binding you up, if you get the discs permeated with a lube, you'll never get them to stick again. I rebuilt one on my cutter last year, parts were around $50 I believe, but yours shouldn't need it yet.

cfpinz

Apparently I can't access Bush Hog's online manuals. The manual specific to the driveline, if I remember right, was in Italian :roll: . So my question now is what procedure do you use to get the right amount of tension/resistance in the slip clutch. If I back off the nuts maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn how do I know I've got it correct? I've thought about drawing a line with a marking pen across the clutch discs, cranking up the shredder, shutting it down and looking to see how much the discs have moved. At least that way I'd know if it was froze up or not. Thanks for the help so far.
 

FROGHOLLOWFARM

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If the nuts are near the end of the bolt they should slip somewhat easily.It sounds like there is some corrosion in there.I would take it apart(as already mentioned) sand and wire brush it then spray some carburetor fluid on everything(to remove any residue),let it dry(no lube) and reassemble.Tighting the nuts to where they were before disassembly and try it.If it slips to much then just tighten a little at a time.
 

El_Putzo

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We've got the same model and it gets parked in a shed most of the time, but you never know if the plates might get rusty. Here's what we do, we use the same procedure on the post hole digger: loosen all the bolts just enough until is slips freely and let it slip for a few seconds. This burns out any rust and or debris. Tighten the bolts 1 to 1.5 rounds. Put a mark with a soapstone across the discs so that you can see if they are moving. Take it out in some thick grass and try it out. If it slips in the thick grass, tighten it another half round. It's kind of trial and error the first time. Next year when you loosen it up to make sure everything is operable, keep track of how many rounds you loosen the bolts and after you slip it intentionally, tighten them back the same amount as you loosened them.

All slip clutches are not created equal. Spring tensions vary and wear out over time. I doubt you will find any manual that tells you to tighten the bolts X number of turns. This is why we like to check them at the beginning of the season.
 

cfpinz

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Here's the page to access the online manuals, pick out your model and go to the bottom of the page and click on where it says manual here, you'll need acrobat to read it:

http://www.bushhog.com/agtoc.html

It lists the initial spring length as 1 17/64", fine tuning may be necessary.

cfpinz
 
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