Screw Extractors & Easy Outs ?

[Stocker Steve]

Have had problems getting them to work. Ended up using a die grinder last time to peel the bolt out.

Read the directions out of desperation and noted that they recommend using a LH drill bit. It that, or some other tip, key to making them work? OR are they a POS?

 

[Ouachita]

It depends on what type you are using. We need more information. What are you trying to remove? (Bolt shank diameter, coarse or fine thread, grade 2,5, or 8, how long is it?)

Stubborn larger bolts (5/8" or greater) can be drilled through the center, drilled and tapped for a grease zerk. Install a zerk. Get an old grease gun. Put some cheap penetrant in it and pump until you have some good pressure. The tap on it with a mallet, or an air hammer, or anything in between. Your call, use good judgment.
After you see the penetrant weeping from the circumference on the threads, it's time to use the ease-out, but we must know which type you are using to give you the best advice. Apologies for I don't have a YouTube channel, yet.

I just had two calves born today while I was away. From heifers, while I was at work today. I'm feeling lucky, so celebrating with some cold beer.

 

[Ouachita]

A 50/50 mix of toluene and ATF works great for the penetrant.

 

[greybeard]

Have had problems getting them to work. Ended up using a die grinder last time to peel the bolt out.

Read the directions out of desperation and noted that they recommend using a LH drill bit. It that, or some other tip, key to making them work? OR are they a POS?

Using a lh drill bit will sometimes pull the broken off bolt/stud (what us unwoke folks still call a dutchman) out without using an easy out. Or, sometimes you just break the drill bit off too.

I prefer the kind of ease outs that have straight ridges and you just drive em in, and not the LH helix twist type.

 

[Silver]

Drill, heat to a ridiculous temp, walk away overnight, spin out with easy out in the morning. If you've ever done an undercarriage you'll know.

 

[greybeard]

I'll just stick this in here for Silver to consider how many broken off bolts one might encounter rebuilding the under/over carriages..
(a 1950s machine that I had nothing to do with...

 

[wbvs58]

I've never had much luck with them but the big thing is getting the hole centred. Try and get a flat surface on the end of the bolt and counter sink it with an oversized drill to leave a depression for the drill to start off. A good drill press with good vice or better still a mill is a big help.

Ken

 

[Stocker Steve]

It depends on what type you are using. We need more information. What are you trying to remove? (Bolt shank diameter, coarse or fine thread, grade 2,5, or 8, how long is it?)

7/8" NC grade 8 bolt with about a 2" long recessed stub broke off in the hole. Tried to use a #6, and then a #7, tapered extractor. Bought new extractors but still rolling their edges. Tried a 4' long cheater and then broke a rachet...

Lots of wiring and fuel lines in the area. Bilt a plate heat shield but still not able to get hr really hot.

 

[Ouachita]

I can't use much heat for the stuff I work on, so penetrant and extractors are usually our first choice. I have best luck with this type. With any tapered extractor, choose the largest diameter that still leaves plenty of meat around the edge of the fastener. If it not enough, then the taper will expand it and it'll get tighter in the threads.

 

[callmefence]

Generally on a bolt of that size I would drill a hole in the center of it drive in a high grade bolt weld it and put a impact on it. Being broke of recessed is going to complicate that. The next option would be to gradually drill it out starting dead center with a small bit and gradually going up in size until you can peel it out.
The rethread it.
Good luck.

 

[Silver]

Drill and helicoil is an option when all else fails.

 

[MurraysMutts]

Inductive heat gun.....

 

[Lucky]

Weld a nut on it. Plenty of youtube videos on this. Really need a mig welder though.

 

[Atimm693]

I don't mess with extractors too much. They seldom work well and if you break one off then you're really in trouble.

I usually go straight to welding a nut on it, but that wouldn't help in your case. Assuming you can get a straight shot at it, I would continue drilling, probably up to 3/4 or 13/16, and then use a punch to curl out the remaining threads, as fence already advised.

The LH drill bit advice is only banking on the chance that the bit may snag and back the fastener out. Otherwise it makes no difference.