Saddle size? Do you really notice

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L.A.

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Do you really notice much difference between 15 1/2" and 16" or even

15" and 16"?

How about type, say 15" Roper and 15" wade"?

Seems like these days it's hard try a saddle out before you buy and with few
saddle shops and most everything online it's a crap shoot.

Thanks,
 
Great questions. Maybe someone could give us an education on what the differences are and whys and why nots of them. This is one reason getting a horse is a bit hard on newbies. Thanks for starting this.
 
Yep, I sure noticed. 15" saddle all through high school. After college and about an extra 100 pounds, a 16" is more comfortable for me. Thing is, my wife who weighs 130 pounds soaking wet loves the saddle, my girls all through high school preferred my roping saddle to theirs so it all isn't because of my fat butt!
 
Saddle seat sizes can fit differently depending on the style of saddle and how people measure the seat. Some measure to the edge of the seat and some measure to the stitching.

The style of saddle will cause how you sit in it too. For example, a barrel racing saddle will put the rider's weight more forward so that it is easier for the horse to run. The different types of roping saddles will have the rider sit differently too. Calf roping saddles can have the rider's leg hang down more directly under the seat so that the roper can throw the rope and dismount quickly.

Besides the importance of the saddle fitting the rider, the saddle must fit the horse. They do not come in one size fits all. The type of tree will affect how it fits the horse. Many people think that a thicker pad will help a saddle fit better. That only works if the saddle is too wide. If the saddle is too narrow on the horse's withers, a thick pad will pinch. Think of wearing shoes a size too small with thick socks.

One of our daughter's did a 4-H educational presentation about saddle fitting. I saved it in a photo album.

http://imageevent.com/snithia/saddlefitting

Sorry about going on for so long. I have a mare, Chippie, who was very hard to fit. She is a Quarter Horse and built like a tank. My daughter calls her The Land Yacht. She has a short wide back and I finally found a saddle that did not bridge. It is a Chavez with an Arabian tree.
 
L.A.":37zqf8sy said:
Do you really notice much difference between 15 1/2" and 16" or even

15" and 16"?

How about type, say 15" Roper and 15" wade"?

Seems like these days it's hard try a saddle out before you buy and with few
saddle shops and most everything online it's a crap shoot.

Thanks,

for me it's more about preference.
i like a little bigger seat than what really should fit and like chippie said some measure differently.
i like swells and i don't like a wade or a slick fork and high cantle to a lower ropers.
so it's more of what you like and not so much about size.
 
chippie,

I understood what you wrote. What it sounds like is getting a saddle fit to a particular horse is the first key. Then it needs to fit my butt.

Cross_7,

I have idea what you wrote. That is why I'm here. :deadhorse:
 
i have teskey saddle similar to this and no complaints for a factory saddle.( heard some have problems)
i've been tempted to have one custom made but never have.

trc234.jpg
 
I am not sure that you are going to notice a whole lotta difference in 1/2" but for sure the style will make a world of difference. Forward seat saddle for speed vs. a pleasure seat is going to make a difference in when and how you are sitting balanced because stirrups are hung on the tree in a different location. Seat size has less to do with the size of your but then it does with the ratio of the length of riders hip to knee vs. length of lower leg from the knee down, that is how they are actually suppossed to be sized initially. First off, they need to fit the horse. The bars of the tree are the suppension system of the saddle and have to fit the wither and shape of the back, this is what we call the twist. Generally a narrow twist and medium width tree fits the average horse. Heavy skirting and thick saddle pads can act to negate any correctly fitted tree and need to be factored in as a limiting factor also. By all means try a saddle out first, nothing worse then something that does not fit the horse nor rider.
 
i like a 16 for calf roping, where i had room to move up and wide swells to brace against.. and low cantle for quick smooth dismounts, 2 of my saddles are handbuilr by a friend. on modified association trees... love em
 

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