Round baler problem

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rgv

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Bought a case 8430 rould baler from a dealer last fall.
Went to use it this year and a belt (the lacing broke)broke. Had it relaced and went use it again. A different belt broke. This time I removed all but two of the belts (anyone that had a lacing that even looked suspect and relaced them. You probably no what's next. One of the relaced belts broke.
The bale was not quite to the full/max stage when this happened. Any thoughts.
 
We use the exact baler...are you using the staple kind or rivot kind?

Also, what are you using for the cord to join the belts? We have found that the very flexible kind available by the foot from the implement dealer works the best. Also, after you run that cord thru, we tuck the end back into it. Don't let any extra hang out the ends.

Also, we have found that no splice should be shorter than 18 inches long. Are the belts the correct length?
 
I have been taking them to a place that repairs conveyer belts etc. They have this special machine that crimps the loops on to the belts. Look like a bunch of hog rings in a row before they crimp them on.
 
That is the staple kind. The rivot kind look like alligator teeth. I believe the belt length on ours is 366 inches, this is off the top of my head though...do you have your book?

Also, are you grinding off the belt so it is a flat surface at the point they crimp the staples in?
 
Yes - I have watched them, and they trim off the ridges on the belt before they crimp it on. They also have trimmed off maybe 1" of the belts each time.
It appears they are doing a good job of crimping these on.

I have not checked the length of these belts. I am starting to wonder if they have been cut off before me resulting in a belt that is shorter than it should be. This would expain it breaking from to much tension before the bale is complete. Would that make sense?
I also wonder if they are not all the same size, which is causing undue pressure on the shortest belts first.
I have the book, and I remember thay allow some variance in length.

Looks like I may need to remove all the belts and check everything out.

Could there be a tension adjustment that is set to tight?

Sorry if I'm rambling - this is my first round baler. Been using square balers for a long time. My kids are estatic. No more throwing hay in the loft. Ooopps - forgot to remind them we will still square bale the alfalfa.
 
The variance on the length is very minimal, I want to say 2 to 3 inches. The belts stretch a bit with use once they are new so when we put a new one in we start at the 366 inch mark, again I am going off memory on that length, but that is what is sticking in my mind. Also, the belt tightner is a knob located on the front left hand side near the bottom if you are sitting on the tractor. We always have ours as tight as possible. Yes, you very much want to check the length and get them all the same length otherwise I fear if you aren't popping those laces, you will have a problem with the belts crossing, and that is a miserable job to fix, straighten out, unwind. Also, just a word of advice, if your hay is a bit tough, watch your rollers occassionally and make sure no hay is accumulating on them, otherwise your belts will tend to start crossing when that happens also.
 
When you say accumulating on the rollers, are talking about hay wraping around the metal rollers the belts run around?

I am not sure but I think one of the belts may have crossed over the other before it broke.

Looks like a have another project for this winter.

Any other issues you have had with this baler?. The one I have did not come with the hay collectors on the sides, however I am looking for some of these. Looks to me that this would really be necessary given the width of the pick-ups compared to my square baler in a large windrow situation.

Thanks for all your feed-back.
 
Yep, thats what I'm talking about.

We've had ours since new about 10 years(?) now. That is the biggest complaint we have is hay collecting on those rollers, and usually seems to happen on the rollers located near the top, if you close the back door about half way, stick your head in there and look at the rollers at the front top. With the gate this far down the belts get pretty sloppy and you can move them around pretty easy. You can clean them off at this point, we keep like a putty knife handy, it works pretty well in this situation.

We don't have any hay collectors on ours. We tend to rake two rows together, and even in the heaviest spots never had a problem with that.

Another tip, when you start out with an empty baler, ease into the row, then weave back and forth on your row quickly at the beginning of a bale, this will also help from the bale getting lopsided and crossing a belt at the get-go. Then when you weave back and forth, I tend to count either to 5 or 10 depending on how thick/big the rows are.

If you have any other questions, I will try and help you out. Good luck!
 
Rgv ..I would almost bet that your belts are not all the same length.Happened to me once when I bought a used baler.I would take them all off ,except one and compare them.I always leave one on so I have a guide to show me how the rest go back on.
 
rgv":1k70wm5e said:
Bought a case 8430 rould baler from a dealer last fall.
Went to use it this year and a belt (the lacing broke)broke. Had it relaced and went use it again. A different belt broke. This time I removed all but two of the belts (anyone that had a lacing that even looked suspect and relaced them. You probably no what's next. One of the relaced belts broke.
The bale was not quite to the full/max stage when this happened. Any thoughts.

Have never run a Case baler - but my NH has a hydraulic tension - we bale with it at 1500 psi. If you have something similar, you might check to see if it is set too high.

Breaking at almost full bale stage makes me think this might be part of the prob.

Bez'
 

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