Round baler hitch

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RCP

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I am trying to invent, buy, steal, whatever, a quick way to unhook my roundbaler from my JD tractor. A lot of balers and tractors go up in smoke because folks cannot get loose from them in a hurry. Help !! before the next one is me.rcp :help:
 
Quickest way I've found is to pull the pin that connects the hitch bar to the tractor.
 
Angus Cowman":1vdl42cw said:
dun":1vdl42cw said:
Quickest way I've found is to pull the pin that connects the hitch bar to the tractor.
The one we had burn was a JD with the stub type hitch that had to be jackked up off the draw bar so you couldn't pull the pin

All of mine have been the single pin through the drawbar. It's smaller in diameter then the pin that hooks the baler but for some reason it's easier to knock out.
No matter what the quick solution is, a fire extinguisher in the tractor during baling season has always seemed wise. I saw one round baler that had a fire extinguisher mounted under the covers of the baler. Didn;t make much sense to have to wrestle with the covers if the darn thing is on fire.
 
dun":1ndawa1b said:
Angus Cowman":1ndawa1b said:
dun":1ndawa1b said:
Quickest way I've found is to pull the pin that connects the hitch bar to the tractor.
The one we had burn was a JD with the stub type hitch that had to be jackked up off the draw bar so you couldn't pull the pin

All of mine have been the single pin through the drawbar. It's smaller in diameter then the pin that hooks the baler but for some reason it's easier to knock out.
No matter what the quick solution is, a fire extinguisher in the tractor during baling season has always seemed wise. I saw one round baler that had a fire extinguisher mounted under the covers of the baler. Didn;t make much sense to have to wrestle with the covers if the darn thing is on fire.

Mine have the single pin thru the drawbar too. There is also a matter of the hydraulics, the pto, and the electrical running to the baler. The fire extinguisher is the first good thing to have, good insurance is the second. I'm not going to get burnt over a tractor or baler if at all possible.
 
I agree with Dun, pulling the pin out of the drawbar is quick and easy. Don't even worry about the hydraulic lines (mine are breakaway). Pull the pin and drive off, let the tonque of the baler drop on the ground.

I've had one baler fire but caught it quick and was able to kick the bale out, put out the residual fire in the bale chamber and was even able to put the bale fire out. I lost a floor chain bearing and just happened to be looking back at the baler as I was making a turn and saw a wisp of smoke. OK, so I was lucky but 1) carry a fire extinguisher, 2) be observant and 3) react quickly. I'm not so sure that a fire extinguisher would be effective on a fully engaged baler fire but you need to carry one anyway.

Carry insurance. I haven't in the past but with a new baler I'm going to look into it for this season. I understand it's pretty cheap but we'll see.
 
The tongue weight prevents " just pulling the pin out" It has to be jacked up and aligned just right, (which is not going to happen when you need it to) so I have been toying with the idea to use a pintle hitch sideways, but the question is will it release under pressure? rcp
 
RCP":3r5d62kh said:
The tongue weight prevents " just pulling the pin out" It has to be jacked up and aligned just right, (which is not going to happen when you need it to) so I have been toying with the idea to use a pintle hitch sideways, but the question is will it release under pressure? rcp

OK, you must have a different type of connection to your tractor than I do. My connection on the baler is just two pieces of 1/2" steel strap seperated about 3 inches with a hole in it. The drawbar fits into the space between the two straps and the pin goes in the hole(s) and through the hole in the drawbar. Tonque weight has nothing to do with removing the pin on this arrangement. All the tonque weight is resting on the top "strap" on the baler connection and independent of the pin. The pin just keeps the tractor and baler connected together while movin forward or backward.

Can you send a picture of your hitch arrangement?
 
Glad I read this post never thought of this happening.I'll be sure to weld a chain on my center pin so that I can pull it while sitting in the seat.
As for the pto hyd and electric i'd rather replace the baler than both tractor and baler.
 
rusty":1pkwdrwe said:
Glad I read this post never thought of this happening.I'll be sure to weld a chain on my center pin so that I can pull it while sitting in the seat.

Don't forget about the hairpin clip going through the pin, or you'll have to pull REAL hard!
 
I have absolutely no tolerance of slack at the pin connection. This is a Jd cab /air tractor and a JD baler and a connecting JD pin . At times even when I unhook in the barn I sometimes need a hammer to drive it back up, so it is impossible to just pull the pin, I may need to go to a smaller diameter pin ( and have a loose connection) All I know is I refuse to let my tractor burn, since I have wanted one like this for years, I can get another baler, but not a another tractor. Year before last Farm Bureau told me we had 11 burn in our county, so it does happen more than we think. ( They ought to know they paid for them ! ha, ) rcp
 
Are you sure the hitch height on the roller is set correctly for your tractor? Would a different drawbar, curved up, curved down, or straight help to more properly align the hitch with the drawbar? I've never seen one that you could pull the pin on after jacking. Jacking usually puts everything in a bind, so I have to pull the pin before jacking.
 
Well I am not sure what you mean by roller height, but my drawbar going into the baler hitch is straight, and the heavy tongue weight of the baler rides on top of the drawbar. any forward or backward pressure on the pin makes it impossible to remove the pin. and I mean any, since I have hardly any tolerance in the hole /oin conection. ?? rcp I really appreciate your help !
 
RCP":1nxq1tad said:
Well I am not sure what you mean by roller height, but my drawbar going into the baler hitch is straight, and the heavy tongue weight of the baler rides on top of the drawbar. any forward or backward pressure on the pin makes it impossible to remove the pin. and I mean any, since I have hardly any tolerance in the hole /oin conection. ?? rcp I really appreciate your help !

Use a smaller pin or a grade 8 bolt thato's a little smaller. I had to burn a pin out becuase the fit was so "perfect", substituted a slightly smaller bolt and like magic the problem went away.
 
If your baler is putting that much weight on the hitch you may need to adjust the hitch on the baler so that the weight is more balanced
I can't remember on the JD's it has been a little over 10 yrs since I had one, but on the NH you would remove the bolts attaching the hitch and move the hitch to a lower position and that would raise the front of the baler up
 
I may be wrong, but I believe RCP is running a 30 series Deere baler with the equal angle hitch. This hitch must be slid over the drawbar, drop the pin in and then lower the baler onto the stud. It's been awhile since I've been close to one of these, but I don't think it would take much to turn it into a clevis type hitch. You could cut the stud off, bore a hole where the stud was (for a pin) then weld a piece of flat steel to the top of the hitch extending out over where the stud was and drill a hole in this that will align with the hole in the lower part of the hitch.
 
According to all of my manuals the pin specifications are for pins a little smaller then the drawbar hole, this keeps the tongue from bending when the baler pivots over un-even ground. I now use the quick release hitch pins so I don't have to pull a hair pin clip out and loose it. I have had to use my fire extinguishers a couple times that I have in my tractors.
 
Could you rig up a pin that has a chain on it attached to the three point....then just lift the three point and drive away?
 

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