RE- VACANATIION PLAN

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RICHARDL

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There is a lot of people that i talk to in my area that don't do anything more than just de worm there cattle. Whats a good vaccination plan that i should be doing.? I talked with a guy this past weekend that does it for black leg & resipatory. And i'd like to have some sort of plan for vaccanating . i only have 2 heifers now bout 13 months old that i purchased 1 month ago & i doubt they have ever received any shots. And i plan on getting 2 more in Nov. 1 is Angus the other is Brangus. thanks

jUST TO LET YALL KNOW
spoke with a local vet about vaccinating my cattle, he suggested, and he said" I vaccinate my calfes in the spring & fall with Ivermec Plus, & VIRA SHEILD 6."Its for bvd, bvr, etc. etc.. he didn't mention blackleg. And he said he's never had a problem. The ivermec wasn't cheap but compared to losing a calf or one of my heifers it is . the vira sheild was very cheap for 10 doses,with the syringe, needles, ivermec plus & vira sheild. 84 bucks
 
Ivomec is actually a wormer... worming your cattle is a very good plan as they'll gain weight faster when they don't have to compete for food with their resident worms. ;-)

Virashield 6 is a good vaccine; I prefer a modified-live vaccine, but the killed vaccine is adequate... might talk to your vet about also vaccinating with something that covers lepto though.

Don't forget you need to re-vaccinate in about 4 weeks or you've pretty much wasted your time and money.
 
WHAT, vaccine do I use for black leg or does a vet have to do it.? and What's the best method for injecting any vaccine? i know in the neck, pull up the skin and????? Never done this before so it should be interesting for me. Yes he told me spring and fall. Not sure if he mention re-vaccinating in 4 weeks though.
Thanks
 
We use vision 7 for the claustridial stuff like blackleg. We've never had a problem wither, but it's cheap insurance just as most vaccines are.
 
I use Ultrabac 8 for the blackleg vaccine. Any 7 or 8-way vaccine will do though, as long as you're consistent (use the same one each time and each year).

Take a peek at the label if you doubt the need to revacc in 4 weeks. Especially necessary for a killed vaccine, which both Virashield and any clostridium (7 or 8 way vacc) would be.
 
richard,

you can get a catalogue from jeffers vet supply and it will tell you a fair amount about different vaccines that you can order from them. they are in alabama. the # is 1-800-jeffers.

good luck,

jt
 
I KNOW, where. just never done it. And i know the difference in the under the skin & in the muscle. like i said never done it. the vet told me how. Just not sure of myself is all > and yes i'll contact my agaent to see when & how i can take that course sounds interesting.
thanks
 
One of my favorite posts by Bez in regards to giving shots... hopefully it'll help you too Richard.

Bez>":1vdd3wah said:
Are you tenting when you sub Q?

If so I know why it is not working for you.

You are driving the needle into the skin on the other side of the tent.

So - I want you to stop pinching the skin, pulling it up and inserting the needle. I want you to use the following method - I had to search for it - I wrote this a long time ago - try it - it is fast - efficient and works like a hot darn.

The actual post was on another topic, but the method I use is well written within the post.

Have a gander and let me know if you have further questions.

Bez>

------------------------------

What I wrote:

Sub Q injections in the neck - 7 way. I use it all the time.

Fresh needle on a regular basis - keeps the point sharp and prevents dragging in hair and dirt. Also prevents passing certain little germs from one animal to another. These are the biggest causes of problems in my opinion.

When you stick the animal in the neck, do not "tent" the skin.

Smack the needle area a couple of times hard with the back of your hand - numbs the sight and prevents them from jumping around.

Point the needle directly towards the ground - holding it like you are about to stab something with a knife in your fist - run your hand out and into the side of the animals neck and stab downward - almost parallel to the neck surface. Needle goes in under the skin and does not enter the meat. Ram the vaccine home with your thumb - unless you are using a gun which I doubt. That's another story.

Needle length should not exceed one inch - prevents bending and breakage. Stainless steel only please - stronger needle - but can be brittle. Plenty long enough to do the job.

Wife timed me doing a few animals a couple of days ago - ran em in the chute - did not bother to put them individually into the squeeze - stacked em tight and walked down the line hitting them as fast as the girls could supply me with needles - averaged about 8 - 10 seconds per injection. No lumps and no problems.

Tenting sometimes causes you to prick the skin on the opposite side of the needle entry point and that not only causes additional irritation, but can cause difficulties when the needle partially enters that same piece of skin and the exit hole of the needle is blocked - I suspect this has happened to at least a few folks from time to time.

We never get lumps from needling when I use this method. Not ever.

Whenever you see an animal in the field with a lump and you are concerned - run it into a squeeze and take the largest bore needle you have on site - and you should always have them - and stick it into the site. Just the needle - no syringe attached. Grab the lump and squeeze the heck out of it with said needle still in place. If nothing comes out fine - we will deal with that in a minute - if something comes out - grab a scalpel - and slice it open - on the bottom side - so it can drain. Squeeze the heck out of it.

If it is solid - cut from top to bottom - straight down through the middle of this lump and remove the "jelly" you will likely find. If you are so inclined you can give it a stitch or two when you are done.

Be aware the animal will resist this treatment - so just get on with it.

In almost all cases you should disinfect the site, spray on some type of fly repellant and so on.

Turn it out and forget about it - they heal nicely if left alone.

But, like others have said - if it was my animal I would find something more important to worry about - especially if the animal did not seem to be in any distress. It is usually nothing worth getting wrapped around the axles about.

Did I miss anything fellow readers?

Regards,

Bez
 
All I might add is that my personal preference for anything sub Q is in the fold of skin behind the shoulder area. Easy to do and the cow hardly knows you've done it. Also this is a very active area so less likelihood of it becoming real sore or making a knot.
 
on sub Q use a 5/8" needle 16 or 18 guage depending on how thick the vaccine is,it gets through the skin and not into the muscle just stab it in square. You can use a genric pouron for worms much cheaper and it works.


Jeff
 
THANKS TO ALL once again . I'm going to give it a try, hope i don't vaccinate myself. Ha Ha. the needles the vet recommended were 18 ga. 3/4" lg. how will they react when i stick them wildly, mildly or maybe not at all. I've been putting feed in the chute. and stand over them when they go in there to check it out, just to get them used to it . they don't seem bothered by it. So its time.
once again thanks to all
Richardl
 
Run them into the chute for vaccinations, snug 'em up tight, and they won't be able to move much while you figure out what you're doing. :p
 
RICHARDL":25fvp110 said:
THANKS TO ALL once again . I'm going to give it a try, hope i don't vaccinate myself. Ha Ha. the needles the vet recommended were 18 ga. 3/4" lg. how will they react when i stick them wildly, mildly or maybe not at all. I've been putting feed in the chute. and stand over them when they go in there to check it out, just to get them used to it . they don't seem bothered by it. So its time.
once again thanks to all
Richardl

The only ones that really hurt when you vacinate yourself are the clostridials, the others are nothing.
 
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